3D Printable Projects

Sensorless Homing with RP2040 & TMC2209

Tue, 24 Feb 2026 13:51:33 GMT

In this video, I’ll show you how to set up sensorless homing using a TMC2209 stepper driver — no mechanical limit switches required! Perfect for 3D printers, CNC machines, robotics, and other DIY electronics projects. I’ll guide you through the wiring, Arduino code, and how to tune StallGuard for accurate, reliable homing. Whether you’re building a CoreXY, a custom motion control system, or just want to learn more about stepper motor drivers, this is a great place to start. Let’s build smarter!

Why would we want to use sensorless homing? Well first the Pros…. There’s no need for extra mounts, additional components or running long dangling cables to one or both ends of the carriage or other moving component. And there are always cons, so in this case you’ll need a stallguard-capable driver (they cost a little more and are only manufactured by Trinamic) and accuracy isn’t great at slow speeds.

I used a variety of resources, and materials to complete this demonstration.

This is a list of the physical items used in this project and where you can source them:

RP2040-Zero: https://geni.us/Waveshare-RP2040Zero
Mini560 DC-DC Buck Converter 5v: https://geni.us/Mini560
BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.3: https://geni.us/TMC2209
Momentary Button: https://geni.us/6x6TactileButton
1k Resistor: https://geni.us/Ufa2s
Sliding Switch: https://geni.us/SlideSwitchSPDT
Screw Terminal PCB Mount 5mm pitch: https://geni.us/PCBScrewTerminals
Headers and Pins: https://geni.us/HeadersAndPins
DC Barrel - PCB Mounted: https://geni.us/DCBarrelPCBMount
3D Printer Filament: https://www.3djake.uk
Some M3x8 bolts: https://geni.us/NutsAndBolt
12v Power Supply (2 amp+): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply2A

For revised circuit design (version 3 as of July 2025) you'll also need:

Diode 1N5819 (x1): https://geni.us/Diode1N5819
Electrolytic Capacitor 100µF, 35V, Low ESR (x1): https://geni.us/Capacitor100uF35vESR

And for the software used to communicate with the project and run the demonstration:

Andrea's Code: https://github.com/AndreaFavero71/stepper_sensorless_homing
MicroPython 1.24.1: https://micropython.org/download/PIMORONI_TINY2040/
Thonny Python IDE: https://thonny.org

First, let’s quickly go over the basics of a stepper motor as it will help you to understand some of the later concepts. Stepper motors can come in all shapes and sizes

Most stepper motors have around 50 physical teeth on the rotor. The rotor is the rotating part of the motor.

The stationary part — a collection of electromagnets surrounding the rotor — is called the stator. When the stator coils are energised in a controlled sequence, the rotor rotates step by step, locking into a new position with each change in the magnetic field.

Stepper motors generate back-EMF as they move — this will be important later.

Back-EMF is a voltage produced by the motion of the rotor through the motor’s magnetic field. The faster the rotor moves, the more back-EMF is generated.

Some stepper drivers, like the TMC2209, can monitor this using internal current sensing to estimate motor load or detect stalls.

Quick side note on supper motors: They are normally referred to as a ‘NEMA” then a number. Such as NEMA17 or NEMA23. This is not directly linked to the Torque, voltage, current rating, step angle, shaft size or the physical length or depth of the motor. NEMA stands for the National Electrical Manufacturer Association (NEMA) and the number specifies a a faceplate size.

To recreate this example for yourself we’ll be using just a few parts as listed earlier in these Instructions in the BOM section. I have assembled two versions for you:

Using a Breadboard: You can build the circuit on a breadboard following my wiring diagram. To create the stalling condition you can keep it super simple and carefully grab the shaft of the stepper to create resistance or feel free to 3D print the little mount attached to this step which attaches to the motor and let’s you move end stops at will by repositioning the pegs.
Use a the PCB: To make things even tidier I’ve created a little PCB design which holds all the components together without a snake pit of wires. Just insert the components where marked and solder in place on the reverse.

The PCB also adds some additional features to help you develop your own project. It allows you to power the circuity with either soldered wires, wires attached with a screw terminal or via a DC barrel.

You’ll also be able to attach a breadboard at the bottom giving you access to all the pins of the RP2040 breakout so you can build your own project on top of Andrea’s software if you wanted to. The DC to DC Buck converter takes the motors supply voltage between 7 to 20v and provides 5v for the microcontroller.

Five Python files written by Andrea power the whole demo — let’s go over how to upload them to your RP2040 and walk through the code to help you understand what’s happening.

To follow along, you’ll need to download the free Thonny editor from https://thonny.org and a copy of MicroPython. https://micropython.org/download/ Be sure to download version 1.24.1 of MicroPython.

Andrea's code can be downloaded from Github here: https://github.com/andreafavero71/stepper_sensorless_homing

Preparing the RP2040

To prepare the RP2040, connect it to your PC while holding down both the BOOT and RESET buttons. Once connected, release the RESET button but continue holding BOOT until it mounts as a removable drive on your computer.

Next, drag and drop the MicroPython .uf2 file onto this drive. The RP2040 will then disconnect and automatically install MicroPython. This takes only a few seconds.

Open the Thonny Editor, and connect to the RP2040 by selecting it from the dropdown menu in the bottom-right corner of the Thonny window.

Now download the five Python files from Andrea’s GitHub repository.

In Thonny, open the Files pane. (On macOS, you’ll find this under the View menu.)

Navigate to your downloaded Python files, select all five, right-click, and choose “Upload to /” to copy them to the RP2040.

Let’s take a high-level look through the five Python files that power this project, so you can understand how they work together.

example.py – The Entry Point

This is the main file and it’s what we run first.

It sets up the hardware: the motor driver, LED, and pushbutton.

It also handles the loop that waits for the button press, and then starts the homing routine.

Think of this as the control hub — the file that brings everything else together and tells it when to run.

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stepper.py – Motor Control & Homing Logic

This file handles everything related to the stepper motor.

The RP4040 microprocessor and it successor (the RP2050), normally used in raspberry Pi Pico’s, has the Programmable Input Output (PIO) feature: In this demo the PIO is used to generate the steps for the stepper, as well as to count steps in between the homes. The PIO are like independent CPUs, therefore helping to avoid overloading the main CPU.

The homing logic lives here also— including how far the motor turns, how stall detection works, and when it decides it has hit an end stop.

This file is also where you can tweak sensitivity values and adjust motion settings.

If something’s not behaving right — this is usually the file you’ll need to edit.

⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻

TMC_2209_driver.py – Talking to the Motor Driver

This file handles UART communication with the TMC2209 stepper driver.

It defines how to send and receive data like speed and StallGuard readings.

It’s responsible for configuring the driver properly — like enabling StallGuard, current settings, and microstepping.

Most users won’t need to edit this file — it’s a low-level helper that just does its job in the background.

⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻

TMC_2209_uart.py – Low-Level UART Details

This is where the raw serial communication logic lives.

It’s a technical file that formats and parses the binary data sent to and from the driver chip.

It deals with things like CRC checks and register addresses.

It’s the kind of file you’d only dig into if you needed to extend functionality or troubleshoot the UART communication directly.

⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻

rgb_led.py – Status LED Control

This file manages the RGB LED.

It lets the code easily set different colours for status updates — like when homing starts, finishes, or fails.

It’s a small utility file but great for giving visual feedback on what the system is doing.

⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻⸻

Summary

So, in short:

example.py is the main controller.
stepper.py controls the motor and homing logic.
TMC_2209_driver.py and TMC_2209_uart.py handle communication with the motor driver.
rgb_led.py controls the visual feedback.

Together, they make it easy to do sensorless homing — and tweak it to suit your project.

To run the demo code you need to open example.py — making sure that you open the copy located on the RP2040, not the one on your computer — and then click Run current script.

At this point, pressing the physical button on your hardware should trigger the homing routine.

If you want the script to start automatically when the RP2040 power on then we can save a new copy on the device itself and name it main.py . Now when you cycle the power this main.py file runs itself.

StallGuard is a feature of certain Trinamic stepper drivers, like the TMC2209, that can detect when a motor has stalled.

StallGuard2™: TMC2130, TMC2160, TMC5130, TMC5160, TMC2041
StallGuard4™: TMC2209, TMC2226

It does this by cleverly sensing and monitoring the back-EMF we mentioned earlier. StallGuard evaluates how much effort (in terms of motor current) is needed to maintain motion and compares this to the expected patterns of back-EMF.

A stall occurs when the rotor can no longer follow the commanded magnetic steps — usually due to mechanical resistance, an obstruction, or too much speed. When this happens, the expected back-EMF pattern drops or becomes unpredictable.

StallGuard detects this change and reacts accordingly:

The driver calculates a value called SG_RESULT (StallGuard result), which reflects the motor’s load.
As the load increases — or a stall begins — SG_RESULT decreases.

For our demonstration, we monitor the value of SG_RESULT via Single Wire UART, which is a serial communication method between our microcontroller (the RP2040) and the driver (TMC2209). We will use our own logic to decide if a stall is happening based on the values we see.

Optionally, you can define a threshold in the driver called SGTHRS (StallGuard Threshold). If SG_RESULT drops below this threshold, the TMC2209 will flag a stall on its DIAG pin.

One other value worth knowing is TCOOLTHRS — the velocity threshold. StallGuard only works above this speed. This is because at low speed the back-EMF is too weak to measure reliably.

In short: StallGuard senses how hard your motor is working by watching for changes in back-EMF. If the effort suddenly spikes or the back-EMF drops, the driver assumes the motor is stalling.

If your setup doesn’t behave as expected, there are a few parameters in stepper.py that you may need to tweak:

Homing Range

By default, the code allows the motor to turn five full rotations in each direction while searching for end stops. If your motor needs more turns before giving up, increase the value of max_homing_revs on line 115.

StallGuard Sensitivity

On line 341, you’ll find the variable k. Increase this value to make StallGuard more sensitive, or decrease it to reduce sensitivity.

SG Threshold Calculation

On line 340, the SG (StallGuard) threshold is calculated as a function of speed. Andrea derived this from tests where he rotated the motor at various speeds with no load. Since the relationship between StallGuard values and frequency was linear in his data, a slope of 0.15 (the line of best fit) is used to calculate an appropriate SG threshold between 400 Hz and 1200 Hz.

However, your hardware may behave differently, so you may need to experiment with a fixed StallGuard value or create your own function based on your motor’s characteristics.

Comments:

Build Working Stranger Things Walkie-Talkies

Sun, 01 Feb 2026 12:07:26 GMT

I Recreated the Stranger Things Walkie-Talkies (THEY ACTUALLY WORK)

I’ll explain to you how to make your own working replica walkie talkies as used in the Netflix hit TV Series - Stranger Things.

Recently I finished watching Stranger things and really enjoyed the nostalgia and fun of the two way radios used. I have fond memories of playing with some when I was kid and the show re-ignited that desire so I set about recreating a pair.

They use the 446mhz spectrum, and after testing them they have a range of about 1.5km in the open air and roughly 300 to 500m in built up locations. More then enough to be enjoyable. And of course, you can build more than just two and they’ll all work together plus there are 16 voice channels to select from.

I looked into building my own PCB and electronics circuit for this but the cost and complexity was rising - so at that point I decided to buy a low cost radio. A pair of these are just £19 on Amazon. I took them apart and then rebuilt them adding LED’s and other details to the build.

This means we also have a USB C rechargeable battery pack and, if you want, you can hook them up to your computer and program frequencies and codes using some free software.

As always I have created a high quality video build guide (see above) which also explains a little more about the project at the beginning of the video. It's an option to watch it as I have included everything you need in the written guide below - but it does sometime help if you become a little lost with the build process later on in this written guide and I put a lot of effort into it so it would almost be rude not to at least watch the intro. ��(Though I will of course try my best to ensure you don't get lost in these instructions! )

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

To build one of your own you will only need a few items for the relatively simple, but effective, project:

So, to build your own you’ll need:

Donor Radio (1 or more): I used HESENATE HT66 PMR446: https://geni.us/PMR446-Radio
(Other radios might be usable, but the 3D CAD design would need updating. 3D files available on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1579255-build-working-stranger-things-walkie-talkies-how-t )
3mm Red LED’s (x2): https://geni.us/LEDs
100 Ω resistor (x1): https://geni.us/ResistorsKit
M4x18mm Bolts (x4): https://geni.us/M4-Bolts
M2.5x10mm Bolts (x8): https://geni.us/M2-5BoltKit
Optional M4 Lock Nut (x1)
Telescopic magnetic pen (x1): https://geni.us/MagneticPickUpTool
3D Printer Filament: https://www.3djake.uk
Some 20AWG wire (around 0.8128mm in diameter): https://geni.us/20AWG

It’ll also be ideal if you had some heat shrink tubing, or insulation tape to protect our circuit later.

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/1579255-build-working-stranger-things-walkie-talkies-how-t

International shipping Etsy shop: www.diymachines.etsy.com

How to Build your Stranger Things Style Walkie-Talkie

Step 1: Disassembling the radio

First we remove battery by opening pulling on the little clip at the base of the radio and then sliding it down and out.

Next, using some pliers to help your grip, pull off the two dials at the top. They're on pretty tight but will just pull straight off.

Underneath these dials are some circular nuts which we can use a flathead screwdriver to turn anti clockwise to un-tighten and remove.

After this we can pry off the silver back piece. Lift from bottom, alternating sides to loosen it by the tabs, and then carefully pull up and partially back out the bottom as we need to cut the two speaker wires roughly in the middle before fully removing the silver back. You may find the antenna need's gentle persuasion out of the antenna sleeve it's currently residing in - this is fine but be careful not to damage it.

To remove the speaker, start by removing any glue around it’s edge and then carefully pry it up at the sides.

Finally, unscrew (and save the two screws) from the electronics board to separate it from the silver chassis.

With this done we can move onto some 3D printing and create the first part, the middle of the Radio Body in the next step.

Step 2: 3D Printing the Radio Bodies Middle

As we go through the step of 3D printing and assembling this project I have included and will describe methods for both people with a multi-material/colour printer and for those who have a more traditional single nozzle/extruder printer.

For these parts U used a Silver Silk PLA and a Matt Black PLA.

If you’re using a multi-material printer go ahead and print the file ‘Radio Body Middle - Multi-material’ and if you’re using a single colour printer you’ll need to print ‘Radio Body Middle - Single ’ and ‘Silver Inserts Both Sides’.

Then those of us with the single filament printers can go ahead and glue the solid silver piece into the recess at the top of the print saving the other print for a later step. The multi material one is already assembled. :)

Step 3: 3D Printing the Radio Bodies Front

We can also print (and shortly begin installing components into) the front of the radio. Multi material printers you’ll want ‘Radio Body Front - Multi’ and single nozzles it’s ‘Radio Body Front - Single’

The multi material comes with markings already included ion the front, for the single colour print I found this trick from the Youtube channel FuzzyLogic which can work. Here is a link to his video, and I will also briefly describe it below: https://youtu.be/W2f5lI1R6dg?si=K8IdM1HdP4LCR7YX&t=42

You essentially thin nail polish with acetone and then use a 1ml syringe and blunt tip needle to add the polish into the inlays. You’ll need a steady hand and can wipe any excess. Fortunately, my somewhat questionable skill at this matches the fact the radio should look old and a little worn by its years.

Step 4: Adding the LED's

We’ll fit the LED’s first. They need to be wired in parallel through a 100 Ω resistor. Before we go through that it's important you understand the polarity of LEDs.

The LED’s have a longer leg on it’s positive side also known as anode. For general knowledge the shorter leg and side with a flat notch is the Cathode or negative side.

Push fit the two LEDs into their cut-outs from the reverse side so that the two positive legs are towards the middle. We can then bend them together and solder them in place.

To this we will solder a 15cm length of wire. (I'd recommend using a red wire if you have some).

For the negative cathode side of the LED’s use a short length of wire to join them together close to their bases, and then another 15cm longer length to connect one of the cathodes. (Black this time if possible).

Pop some heat shrink on the wire but don't shrink it, this is just us getting ready for connecting in a short moment.

Use some hot melt glue to secure the LEDs into place and to help prevent any of the wires from short circuiting later on.

We will then add our resistor to the end of the positive wire coming from the LED's. Pop another short length of heat shrink over this end for later if you have it, if not insulation tape can used instead later.

Step 5: Preparing the Speaker

To get the speaker ready we need to extend the two wires on the speaker module by about 8cms. If you accidentally broke an original speaker wire off during disassembly that’s ok (I did by accident) - just attach your new 8cm long wire directly to the speaker itself.

To fit the speaker in place, pop it into it's recess in the 3D printed part and then use a small amount of glue to help hold it in position and act as strain relief on our cables.

Step 6: Attaching The Two Prints

To attach our first two 3D printed sub-assemblies you’ll need to pass the speaker and LED wires through the cut outs. Then we can combine the front panel to the printed middle section of the radio.

Use four m2.5x10 bolts to attach the printed parts - the bolts go into the four corners on the inside of the prints.

Step 7: Connecting The Electronics - LEDs

With this in place we can take our circuit board and begin attaching the LEDs and speaker components from earlier.

First take the other end of the resistor attached to our LED’s positive (anode) connection and solder it to the pin marked VCC on the radio circuitboard. This will provide us with a regulated 3v when the radio is switched on.

The wire coming from the negative Cathodes is attached to the GND pin on the circuit board being very careful not to bridge the gap between the pads.

We can then insulate this wither either the heat shrink prepared earlier or some insulation tape. We can also trim of any excess from the underside of the board.

Step 8: Connecting The Electronics - Speaker

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Step 9: Securing the PCB

Before we install the circuit board, check that the blue silicone sleeve (shown with the arrow pointing at it) is still over the microphone, then lay the board in position ensuring no wires become pinched, and fix in place using the same two screws we removed from it earlier.

Step 10: Extending Channel & Volume Controls

To connect the controls for setting the volume and channel, we’ll need two more printed parts. The files is 'Radio Control Extensions.stl' and it does not matter what colour you print them in as they will not be seen in the finished project.

Pop just a small amount of glue into the recess in the bottom and then fit over the dials on the the circuit board ensuring they are firmly pressed down as far as you can without damaging anything.

The two original knobs are then push fitted on at the top of the housing.

Step 11: Assembling The Battery Pack and Rear 3D Print

Turning our attention to the battery pack. We can print the rear of the radio (Radio Body Rear.3mf) and install the battery with two M2.5x10mm bolts.

First partly screw in the two bolts from the outside of the print, then hold the battery pack in place on the inside so that it's electronic terminals are facing outwards, then finish screwing in the bolts until they grip the battery firmly into place.

Step 12: Electrically Connecting The Battery

Then solder a pair of 18cm long wires between the battery terminals and terminals on the circuit board being careful of the polarity. If you lay the parts side by side as I have done in the images, the two inside connections are the negative terminals, and the two outer ones are the positive connections.

It's easier to do if you apply solder to the wires (called tinning) and to the electrical connections on the PCB and battery pack first before soldering them together.

Be careful not to short the terminals or apply excess heat to the battery for too long as you may damage the battery pack and we need to be respectful of lithium batteries and their dangers.

Step 13: Installing Decorative Antenna

For the decorative antenna we first pop the end of the telescopic magnet (give it a good tug - it will go) and then slide the pen/rod through the hole in the assembly from the inside and then clip into place.

To help prevent it from sliding downwards when retracted you have two options. Either apply some glue where the two arms hold onto it, or use another M4x18 bolt and a lock nut to hold it using the adjustable slot in the side of the print. (Or to be totally secure you can always do both).

Step 14: Attaching the Rear and Top Decor

With the interior now completed let’s attach the rear of the radio using some M4x18 bolts in the top three holes, and two more M2.5x10 bolts in the bottom two holes.

Then the decorative detail for the antenna is printed (file 'Ante nna Sleeve.3mf' which can be printed on a multilateral or a single nozzle printer y changing the filament after so many layers and back again from silver, to black, then silver). This is slid over the metal antenna and glued into place at the base. The top of the rod can then be carefully re-inserted.

Step 15: Assembling the Left Hand Side and Transmit Button

Now that we don’t need access to the bolt slot on the side we can also complete the LH side of the radio.

Multi material printers need print: 'LH Side Panel - Multi.3mf' and standard printers should print ‘LH Side Black - Single.3mf’ and glue in place the second silver side with holes we printed earlier.

For the buttons on the side of the radio used to start the transmission, I have included a variety of depths you can print. Start off by printing the 15mm deep button and inserting into the side piece - this should suite most builds. Hold it in place (inside of the side panel) against the radio side and see if you click and release the buttons.

Turn on the radio and see if the button engages the transmission when pressed, and stops when released. If it does not, try a longer or shorter button. Models for depths 14mm through to 17mm are available in increments so you can find the best fit for your build.

When the correct button has been found we can glue the side panel onto the radio ensuring you don’t get any adhesive near and certainly not onto the button itself.

Project Complete!

There we go! If you bought a pair of radios, feel free to convert both or keep one in its original form factor. They’ll still be able to communicate with each other and similar brands of radios on the same frequencies.

To recharge your radio, simply connect a USB C cable to the port at the bottom.

Thank you so much for reading through to the end. If you’d like to help me make, document and share more projects like this please consider becoming a YouTube Member or Patreon.

https://www.youtube.com/@DIYMachines/membership

https://www.patreon.com/c/diymachines

Don’t forget to like and subscribe to the channel on Youtube .

Until the next video - do some good and chow for now. :)

Community:

Discord server for this project: (A great place for questions and advice).

There is a comments section at the end of this page where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

Build a COLOUR E-INK DASHBOARD

Wed, 17 Dec 2025 13:11:47 GMT

How to make your own colour InkyPi e-Paper Dashboard

Hi, I’m Lewis and this is DIY Machines. The channel where I show you step-by-step how to make awesome projects. Today's projects are these very popular colour e-ink paper display digital dashboard’s. An amazing addition to any ones smart home or smart life.

They are customisable to show different data at different times of the day. So you can see your calendar when you wake up, followed by the weather when you’re choosing your outfit for the day ahead, catch up on the news when you get home and then enjoy the charm and nostalgic photos of your family and friends in the evenings.

There is an ever-growing catalogue of plugins such as GitHub stats, NASA imagery, weather reports and more… thanks to the amazing open source InkyPi software running on the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W. https://github.com/fatihak/InkyPi

Developers YouTube account documenting the process of developing InkyPi: https://youtu.be/UOKB9y05eOc?si=Ge9P5QmmB0Aoc42_

I love the colour e-paper display on this project as unlike a traditional screen it does not emit any of it’s own light and instead only reflects natural light just like a kindle screen - but in colour. This is far less distracting and elegantly hides the technology inside behind what looks a printed image in a wooden Ikea frame.

You can also 3D print everything if you don’t want to use a wooden frame, I’ve put up a few ready-to-print designs for you to choose from and you’ll find the Fusion360 file available to download and create your own frame designs with as well.

I hope to add a few more designs online shortly and encourage other makers to share what they create as well.

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

To build one of your own you will only need a few items for the relatively simple, but effective, project:

WaveShare 7.3" E-ink display and HAT: https://geni.us/Waveshare7-3Colour
Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W: https://geni.us/RaspberryPiZero-2W
USB Cable: https://geni.us/MicroUSBCable
3D Printer Filament: https://www.3djake.uk
M3x6 bolts (x16) and M2.5x16mm (x4): https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts

If you’re putting yours into an Ikea frame it’s part 105.663.90 - Rodalm 13x18cm

And you’ll want some filament for 3D printing. All mine was done in PLA from 3D Jake.

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/1518955-build-a-colour-e-ink-dashboard-weather-calendar-ph

International shipping Etsy shop: www.diymachines.etsy.com

How to Build your InkyPi Display

Step 1: Choosing the Front

You have a few choices for the front of the frame - the part you see surrounding the display when the project is finished. Whichever one you choose below, the rest of the instructions are the same for all of them.

Ikea Wooden Frame - Rodalm - Choose this is you will mount your project inside of the 13x18cm Ikea photo frame. You will need to print the file named "Ikea Frame Front.stl". This will act as the interface between the frame and the rest of the projects step. This print hold the e-paper display in the centre of the frame.

Mouse Frame - For this you will need to print the files "InkyPi Frame - Mouse" and "InkyPi Frame - Mouse Buttons" which are simply glued onto the front as optional decorative items.

Cartoon TV Frame - For this you need to print "InkyPi Frame - Cartoon TV" followed by InkyPi Frame - Cartoon TV - TopBox" which is glued onto the top, then a pair of "InkyPi Frame - Cartoon TV - Control Knob" which are similar glued to the front along with the "InkyPi Frame - Cartoon TV - Screen Outlines" and finally the feet on the underside are "InkyPi Frame - Cartoon TV - Feet"

If you're interested in making your own then you'll find a template for Fusion 360 which I have included on the Printables page for download. https://www.printables.com/model/1518955-build-a-colour-e-ink-dashboard-weather-calendar-ph

Step 2: Adding The Back

Whichever frame design you choose, we can continue by taking our e-paper screen and removing the protective film from the front. This is then placed face down into the frame ensuring the ribbon cable passes over the cutout at the base (as shown by the arrow in the image above).

We can then 3D print and install the rear cover using four of our M3x6mm bolts in the four outermost corners of the print.

Step 3: Attach the Ribbon Connector

The ribbon cable board is then fitted into place directly on top of the 3D print with another four M3x8 bolts.

We can then open the connector by lifting the black bar at the back upwards and then inserting the ribbon from the screen. Once seated inside simply push the black bar downwards to lock it into place.

Step 4: Install Raspberry Pi OS

Let’s turn our attention to the Raspberry Pi next. We’ll start by installing the Raspberry PI OS onto the memory card.

I’m using the excellent free ‘Raspberry Pi Imager’ which you can find here: https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/ .

We’re using the Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W so select that after opening up the Raspberry Pi Imaging software, then we want to use the Raspberry Pi OS 64-bit - which is currently on version ‘Trixie’.

Insert your micro SD card into your computer and select it on the next screen before continuing to customise your install……

Choose a hostname for your Pi which will be shown on the network later.
Configure your geographical settings.
Set a username and password for accessing your Pi. Remember these.
Enter Wifi setting for the network it will be connecting to.
Ensure SSH is enabled with password authentication. We will be using this to connect to the Pi later and install the software from GitHub.
No need to enable Raspberry Pi Connect.

You can the proceed to write this to your SD card. It's good practice to also wait for it to verify this process afterwards.

Once this has been written and verified to the card you can remove it from your computer and insert it into the Pi.

Step 5: Attach Display 'HAT' to Raspberry Pi

Next we can fit the Display HAT. This is carefully connected to the Pi by pressing it’s connector against the pins on the raspberry Pi. You might notice I already bent mine when prototyping this project. :/

Once pressed together, we can add the four 3D printed stand offs to sit between the two boards as you secure it to the frame using your M2.5 bolts.

“HAT” stands for Hardware Attached on Top — it’s a Raspberry Pi term for a board that plugs straight onto the Pi’s 40-pin GPIO header.

Step 6: Finishing the Wiring

The ribbon cable then goes between the connectors on the two WaveShare boards (one directly attached to the 3D printed frame and the other on the top of the Raspberry Pi). The side with the shiny pin contacts should be facing upwards.

The USB cable can also be connected to the outer USB port on the Pi now. This is the one used for powering the Pi.

Both of these are held in place with 3D printed cable clamp. Then there are two more print used to secure the USB cable and optionally direct it away from the floor if the frame will be freestanding. If you are wall mounting I would not add this additional wire guide.

Step 7: Inserting Into Ikea Frame

OK, there is just this one more step if you are using the Ikea frame. We need to remove all the additional parts from inside the Ikea Frame and then insert our display.

The acrylic/glass sheet is optional. I'm not a big fan of glossy things so ended up removing the sheet of acrylic later - but in the animation above you can see me including it for additional protection for the screen itself.

If you are using one of the 3D printed frame then you will have already have installed the screen inside so you can skip this step without worry. ��

Step 8: Connecting to our Project

Ensure that the Micro SD card is still inside your Pi from earlier and connect the USB cable to a power supply.

This will cause either to boot up and begin preparing itself for use. The first boot after installing the OS takes a little longer then it will in subsequent boots as it has some housekeeping tasks to do (like expanding the files system, creating cryptographic keys and more). All of this happens automatically so take this as an opportunity to make a cup of tea.

When it's ready we will connect to it via SSH (Secure Shell - A way of creating an encrypted connection between two computers). To do this we need to find its IP Address on our network.

(You could also consider connecting a monitor and keyboard to the device for the following steps but I find this remote connection far more convenient.)

The easiest way to do this is to connect to your router and have a look for your device in there. I gave mine the hostname of 'InkyPi' and I can see in my Unify network software that the device called InkyPi has been assigned the IP Address of 192.168.0.40.

I'm using some free software called Termius to connect to my Pi via SSH. You can download it here: https://termius.com

Type the IP address of your Raspberry Pi into the window of Termius and press continue. In the Host Details pane which then shows on the right you can enter your username and password you chose earlier when configuring the Raspberry Pi installation.

Press connect and then you’ll be connected.

Step 9: Installing InkyPi

This project runs the amazing InkyPi project started by 'fatihak'. You can find the repository for the software here: https://github.com/fatihak/InkyPi

There are well written instruction on that page on how to install the software, so I will only go over it briefly here, but if int he future the projects GitHub page suggests a different process for installing then please follow that.

You will first need to copy and paste this command and send it in Termius:

git clone https://github.com/fatihak/InkyPi.git

This will clone the InkyPi repository to our Pi.

We then open the folder it created with this command:

cd InkyPi

And once in this folder we install the software for our Waveshare screen with the following:

sudo bash install/install.sh -W epd7in3e

This will take some time, perhaps between 5 to 10 minutes but once it has completed the screen on your display should refresh and show you a URL and IP address you can type into a web browser on your local network to connect to InkyPi and begin customising it.

Step 10: Exploring the Plugins

Here is a brief overview of some of the features to get you going with your new dashboard.

The thumbnail at the top centre shows the last image sent to your display. We can send a clock face by choosing the clock plugin, setting the style and colour we want and pressing ‘Update Now’.

To see which plug in is what - just hover over it and a tool tip will pop up and let you know.

The image upload plugin will let you upload a photo and have that rendered onto the display - fun fact - this uses something called the Floyd-Steinberg dithering algorithm from 1976 - that’s an algo invented 50 years ago.

If you found your clock time displayed was wrong, you’ll want to head to the settings (cog icon top right of the Home Screen) and update the Time Zone and how often the display should update the information. I also like to boost the saturation, sharpness and brightness of the display for a better image quality.

Let’s look at one more popular plug-in - the Weather. Here you’ll need to select a location for the forecast, and change the units of measurement to suite your preferences.

That’s just a few of the plug-ins currently available, and there are being more developed and added as time goes on.

Step 11: Ways to Display Your New E-ink Dashboard

You have three different options for displaying your frame, you can have it stand directly on the frame, attach a rear leg to be able to recline it in portrait or landscape, and finally hang it on the wall.

If you’re attaching the leg, simply print it and then bolt it on with two m3x8 bolts to any or the positions marked out on the rear.

To wall hang, print the hanging bracket and attach it to either the single mounting point for portrait, or attach one to each of these two points for landscape. For convenience when adding hardware such as a nail to a wall; the space between the two hanging points when in landscape is 105mm.

Community:

Discord server for this project: https://discord.gg/UE79EkPwAr (A great place for questions and advice).

There is a comments section at the end of this page where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

HALOT-X1 Resin 3D Printer Review

Fri, 28 Nov 2025 17:31:03 GMT

PioCreat HALOT-X1
10.1” 16K Resin Printer Review

The PioCreat Halot X1 i s one of the more unusual consumer resin 3D printers I’ve tested in a while. On paper, it promises a lot: a large 10.1" 16K screen, a genuinely leveling-free build plate, a unique “twist-to-release” print removal system, and an optional AFU that can automatically refill and reclaim resin for you.

I’ve spent the last few weeks putting it through its paces in my workshop here iat DIY Machines to see whether it really delivers on those claims — and more importantly, whether those workflow conveniences actually make resin printing any easier or more enjoyable. (Which would certainly be welcome given resin printers messier workflow).

If you’re wondering whether the Halot X1 is worth buying, this in-depth review should help you decide.

Where to buy:

Creality/PeoCreat direct: https://crealityofficialstore.sjv.io/19qvGm

Pros:

16k 10.1" mono LCD
Leveling-free build plate
Twist-to-release quick ejecting build plate (I love this!)
Hinged front lid
Optional AFU (auto-refill & resin reclaim, heating and RFID bottle detection)

Cons:

AFU does not fully empty resin vat
Grooved plate can complicate direct-on-plate printing
Slight Z compression

Video Review of Ha lot-X1

For the first time I have also created a video review of a 3D Printer - which is the Halot-X1. I've embedded it below for you. This written review covers some additional features in detail and the video review focuses on it's technical ability to deliver accurate prints.

What is th e PioCreat Halot X1?

The PioCreat Halot X1 is a feature-packed 16K leveling-free resin 3D printer designed to offer higher detail and a simpler printing experience than most MSLA machines on the hobbyist market. What sets the Halot X1 apart from typical resin printers is its inverted printing system: the build plate remains fixed while the vat and UV light system move, resulting in a stable and fully factory-calibrated platform that never needs manual leveling. That's one less thing to worry about.

The printer also includes a unique quick-release build plate that twists to eject prints without scraping, dramatically reducing the risk of damage both to the printer, your prints, or yourself (I'll explain this later!). For users who want even more automation, the optional AFU 'Auto Feed Unit' can top up resin during long prints, reclaim unused resin, and load resin-specific exposure presets via RFID. This is not a perfect system, but does manage to ease several pain points of resin printing. (More on that further in the review below).

These innovations make the Halot X1 one of the most user-friendly high-resolution resin 3D printers available in 2025, and certainly which I have tested. This is ideal especially for beginners and miniature makers seeking detail without complexity. Top all this with less need to interact with resin, I'm finding I'm using this machine more than any other previous resin printers I have owned.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The PioCreat Halot X1 is built around a 10.1-inch 16K monochrome LCD, delivering an XY resolution of roughly 14 microns. As already mentioned, it uses an inverted kinematic system, meaning the build plate remains fixed while the vat, LCD, and light engine move together on a robust dual-linear Z assembly. This design eliminates manual leveling entirely.

Print removal is handled by a unique twist-to-release build plate that uses internal mechanical ribs to eject models without needing a scraper. The printer also supports an optional AFU Auto Feed Unit, which can automatically top up resin, reclaim leftover resin, lightly heat resin during pumping, and read RFID-tagged bottles for automatic exposure presets.

A 92-zone intelligent UV matrix provides targeted, uniform exposure across the build area, and the machine includes built-in air purification, Wi-Fi connectivity, and compatibility with Halot Box, Creality Cloud, Chitubox, and Lychee slicers.

Shipping and Packing

Everything arrived in perfect condition, and for the first time the external box itself was in good condition. For comparison every Elegoo printer I have had before this has arrived with scraps and punctures to the external packing (but the machines have always been fine inside because of similar good level of internal packing).

The instruction are placed near the top of the contents along with the correct power lead for your country.

At the base of the machine are two handles, if you're able to get your hands down the side and reach these then you will have a good and safe grip on your machine as you remove it.

I put both my hands on the orange shell and lifted that, only to find later that I had lifted by it's hinged lid which itself is only attached to the reassuringly heavy machine but two small hinges. Luckily I did not damage anything but I would not encourager you to risk the same. ��

The machine feels substantial, coming in at a round 12.7kg after the packaging has been removed.

What’s provided in the box?

Aside from a small amount of resin for printing and alcohol for post-print cleaning—both of which are typically excluded due to shipping complexities—all essential items for your initial prints are included. PeoCreat and other brands avoid bundling these liquids with electronic equipment to streamline shipping. Here’s what came with my Halot X1 :

Protective face masks
USB Disk (preloaded with demo print, )
Printed setup and user manual
Gloves x4
After sales service card
Power supply
Resin Drip Tray (for protecting your printer)

Hex Keys x4
Plastic Scraper
ChituBox Pro Demo Key
Lubricant
Some resin filter funnels
Spare screws and bolts

For the AFU

USB Connection cable
Detection Module and Holder
Adapter caps x2
Suction Tubes x2
Silicone Mat x2
Flat head screwdriver

I would also recommend treating yourself to some protective eye wear if you don't already have some. I don't know about you, but I'm already on my last pair of eyes so want to take good care of them. You may also want a higher quality respirator for when you're post processing your model depending on your sensitivity to the fumes - or use extraction/open a window.

Assembly

Setting up the machine for your fist print is very easy. This involves removing all the packaging material and various species of yellow tape keeping the parts firmly in place during shipment. The build platform (where your prints are created) is then slid into the guide rails at the top. Then plug in the power and switch on.

Instruction manual

The instructions are simple for the printer itself(because the set-up itself is). The AFU is a little trickier, but by no means difficult. They have clean illustrations and cover everything you need to set the machine up.

I do feel it would have been nice if they also stepped you though slicing your first model of your own and given a few tips of advice to get you going. But to be honest, there is plenty of advice on Youtube and the general web for this.

Features in more detail

This machine has a very smart, clean and professional design. The touchscreen on top is preferable for me and I suspect any taller people in general. I find it is a more ergonomic height and also does not risk being contaminated by dripping resin.

The USB port is also placed on top and I immediately tried three different USB data drives none of them have caught the lid when it hinges open which is naturally good news.

The power supply connection and power switch are both found on the rear of the machine at the bottom whilst the AFU's resin connection and data/power port is connected at the top of the rear side.

The screen is 3.98" and responds to your touch with zest which is refreshing compared to some other machines which have either a poor quality touch panel or a slow processor which introduces lag to the graphical interface.

The machine makes a gentle hum whilst printing which increases when the cooling fan kicks in a few minutes into printing. This is still not too loud, measuring about 49.1db from 1m away on average which the internet tells me is equivalent to a quiet office or normal conversation.

A hinged lid is very welcome, so gone are the days of needing additional desk/floor space to place the lid whilst you clean your machine or retrieve your model. On that note, the required footprint to be able to use the machine and open the lid is around 41cm depth, 34cm width (54cm with AFU beside it) and 82cm in height to be able to fully open the lid.

Levelling the print bed

Every time I review a rest printer lately this section is becoming shorter and shorter. To be honest, I might have well have removed it from this review but then how would you know for sure that no levelling in required. That's right - nothing, zilch, zero.

Well done PeoCreat.

How does it work?

To be honest, all I know is that it comes pre-calibrated from the factory and you don't even have to turn a knob to remove or replace it when retrieving your prints. The machine automatically secures and releases the platform.

So instead, I'll give you some trivia. PioCreat is a spin off brand from Creality to handle their line of resin printers. Glad this section is still here now?

WiFi set-up

When you first power on the machine a wizard pops up (not an actual Wizard) and steps you through accepting the usual T&C's and connecting to your Wi-fi network if you want to. Thankfully, the machine will still work without a Wi-Fi connection if you have any concerns with that, or just don't have signal where you are using your machine. In this case you will need to use sneaker-net to transfer files via the USB drive.

First Prints

Loading Resin with the AFU

The Auto Feed Unit (AFU) is a small companion machine which attaches the main printer with a silicone tube to carry resin and single usb cable which provides both power and data to the units.

It does not have any controls on itself, but instead is automatically recognised by the HALOT-X1 and appears as additional controls on the printers screen. Very sleek.

The AFU provides several features tot he overall package:

Auto Refill: The AFU pumps more resin into the vat when it is required both at the start of the print and during the print.
Resin Reclaim: At the end of the print you can have the AFU pump most of the resin back into the bottle. (However some does remain in the vat.
Partial Heating: The AFU can pre-heat the resin on its way to the printer.

RFID bottle-based resin profiles: If you use resin from PeoCreat the profile containing the best curing settings for that resin is automatically read by a reader in the base of the AFU and communicated to your printer.
Fluid Level Monitoring: A laser is used to monitor the level of the resin in the vat so that the AFU can top it up when required. It also allows for the printer to pause should it run low on resin. The AFU also weighs the resin bottle it holds to know when this may be running low as well as letting you see how much you may have left in the bottle. This is useful as the bottles are intentionally produced opaque so as to prevent the resin from curing in storage - however this would normally make it a little more tricky to judge how much you have left.

In my first print the printer complained of problems with the AFU as I suspect it was trying to pump the resin to the print vat but was not seeing any arrive on its fluid monitor. This could be because it's the first use of the machine and the silicone tubes have not yet been primed with resin. I just needed to tell the printer to try again and this time (and every time onwards) it has worked without a hitch.

I have a few gripes with the system. I'm not so convinced with the AFU's ability to reclaim resin back into the bottle is 100% useful, it does manage to pump most of the resin back but you still need to pour the last bit back into the bottle by removing the vat and tilting it in through a funnel. The more pressing issue comes with switching resin types / colours. I mean for 95% of my prints I use white or grey resin as they're either going to be functional components or decorated with paint later. But, when I wanted to switch from the solid white to a clear blue you had to go through the tedious process of cleaning the lines.

I got around this by sticking with the AFU being used for my default white and grey solid resins. But then turning off the AFU in the settings and pouring (and retrieving) my blue clear resin the old fashioned way directly into the vat. This meant the AFU lines could continue to hold the solid white/grey resins without causing any issues.

That being said, the AFU has vastly reduced my need to interact with uncured resin and this is absolutely the way I hope designs continue to go.

Build Plate: The Quick Release Twist System

Once the print finishes, it can be left to drip back into the resin tray briefly. Next, it requires cleaning (using alcohol for this type of resin) and then curing. But to be able to do this we need to remove the printed object from the build plate and to aid us with this is the HALOT-X1's quick release plate.

It consist of internal groves which can move back and forth to pull away from the print and then push the print off the plate and this is all achieved by twisting the two levels/handles at either end of the plate.

I'm a big fan of this, as not only does it further reduce your interaction with uncured resin, but also helps to reduce the likelihood of damage to your model. A couple of twists and the print easily detaches itself and drops into the vat of alcohol ready to be cleaned. Before this, on other printers, you would often need to resort to rather aggressively attacking the base of the print where it meets the build plate with a metal scraper risking cut's to yourself and gloves, along with bit's flying off around the room. I have both cut myself and had a piece of uncured resin fly into my eye which required washing through uncomfortably. (Lesson learnt to always wear safety glasses).

The system works well but is not entirely without its own pitfalls.

The not-entirely-flat build plate leaves an impression on your models. Most of the time for me this is not a problem, and if it will be you can always print your model raised up a few mm's on top of a raft and support structures.

Taking into account the transfer of the build plates topography it is a system I am absolutely enjoying. Also, having now printed ten models on the printer, only once has a model failed to attach itself during printing.

Washing and Curing - UW-03

The Creality UW-03 is a large-format wash-and-cure station designed to handle the increasingly big resin prints that modern MSLA machines can produce. The alcohol container can hold 10-litres (of models or alcohol) for a large washing capacity. It's a great addition for any users who want to streamline cleanup and post-processing. The unit feels sturdy, the controls are simple (didn't even need to read the manual), and the included rotating turntable ensures that light coverage during curing is consistent on all sides of your prints.

Washing performance is genuinely good. The UW-03’s large magnetic impeller creates a strong, swirling flow that removes uncured resin effectively—even on more delicate models with tight crevices. The direction changed every couple of minutes to help ensure the currents get into all the different areas of your models. Being able to submerge big build plates directly is a big timesaver, though smaller prints benefit from using the provided basket. The lid seals well, which helps keep IPA fumes to a minimum, and the wide tank makes it easy to decant and filter your solvent when it needs refreshing.

The wire basket can support the build platform so you can either wash the print and platform together at the same time (though this requires leaving the lid off the solvent bath) or you can twist the base and drop the print into the basket to clean the print whilst you return the build platform back to the resin printer and get going with your next job. Super efficient workflow.

After the wash, I like to remove any support structures whilst they are still soft (personal preference) and let the solvent air dry before moving onto the process of curing.

Curing is handled by a tall column of 385/405 nm LEDs in one corner that does a reliable job of hitting models evenly. I tend to reposition the model a few times during curing to improve the reach of the UV rays. The turntable rotates smoothly, and the curing results are predictable: surfaces come out fully hardened, with no under-cured areas unless the print is extremely geometrically complex. It’s also quieter than many of the compact wash-and-cure units I’ve used, which is a welcome improvement. There are two speeds of curing offered, and the only change I can see when you pick 'fast' is that the turntable turns around quicker. I don't think you actually achieve a faster curing time.

There are a couple of considerations worth noting. The UW-03’s size is both a blessing and a drawback: you get masses of space for big prints, but you need a large enough workshop area to accommodate it, and filling the tank requires significantly more IPA than smaller systems. The lack of heated curing or agitation-speed control may also matter to much more advanced users. That said, for anyone working with medium to large resin printers, the Creality UW-03 provides a reliable, straightforward post-processing workflow with enough capacity to keep up with modern machines like the HALOT-X1 on trial here. It’s a solid and practical upgrade from the typical small wash-and-cure combos.

The Completed Prints

Below you'll find some high-resolution images of prints which I have been doing on the machine. They have all been printed using the AFU and PioCreat's own 'ABS like' resin and its default settings. They were washed in alcohol, air dried and then cured for 5 minutes. Click on any of the images to see a larger version.

Dimensional Accuracy

Many modern resin printers, including the HALOT-X1, use a technique known as Z-axis compression during the first few layers of a print. This means the build plate intentionally presses slightly deeper into the vat than the Z-zero point would normally allow. By increasing the contact pressure between the first layer, the resin, and the FEP film, the printer compensates for tiny variations in film thickness, plate flatness, and auto-levelling tolerances. The result is far more reliable adhesion right from the start of a print, which helps reduce early-layer failures and makes the machine feel very “plug-and-play.”

The trade-off is that this compression can sometimes leave the first layers a little more squished than the slicer settings suggest. Users may notice slightly flared edges on bases (often called “elephant’s foot” as you can see in the above image of my cube) or find that the first few layers are a bit thicker than expected. It can also make those first layers adhere quite strongly to the build plate. That said, when calibrated sensibly—as it appears to be on the HALOT-X1—Z-axis compression is generally a net positive, giving beginners and experienced users alike a more forgiving and consistent printing experience without requiring manual fine-tuning.

This is not a problem unique to the HALOT-X1 but is worth knowing about in general - especially if you require dimensional accuracy. Similar to mitigating the chances of having an imprint of the build surfaces contours on your print, the same trick of elevating the model and adding supports can work around the problem of this early layers 'squish'. The photographed cube I printed was 20x20x20mm in the model, the measure cube is 20.67 high x 19.95 wide x 19.92 deep.

Software

You download a copy of ChituBox software and its Network Manager. It has a free tier with enough features for your modelling needs. The printer does come with free upgrade to ChituBox Pro by the way of a scratch of card and coupon number. There are some great AI/Auto tools for preparing your model in the Pro version. But you can also achieve 95% of what you need to do with the free version.

Once you have gone through the stages of importing -> hollowing and adding holes -> adding supports and raft -> slicing you can then either transfer the model via WiFi using the ChituBox Network Manager or with the USB drive. Transfers via WiFi were a little slow and can only be done when your printer is on its Home Screen. You can't queue up jobs onto the printers menu whilst it is printing because of this quirk.

ChituBox comes with the HALOT-X1 model already included in its database of machines. I have checked Lychee slicer but don't see it there, though I did reach out to them today (28th November 2025) and requested it to be added.

Final thoughts

The Halot-X1 is an interesting shift from what we usually expect in a consumer resin printer. Its inverted-kinematics approach, levelling-free setup, and thoughtful usability touches make it feel more refined than many printers in its price range. Creality / PioCreat has clearly focused on making the early stages of the printing process as painless and reliable as possible, and in day-to-day use that effort really shows. Features like the quick-release plate, quiet operation, and AFU help keep the workflow smooth and beginner-friendly, while the speed and consistency of the machine make it appealing to more experienced users, too.

I think the AFU is fantastic for people printing a large number of models in the same colour, or large models which require a large quantity of resin. It's of a help should you be constantly swapping resin types/colours. The wash and cure station is also a blessing and I believe a basic need for any resin printer - especially consider the price point and how it not only makes the work easier, but also safer. You'll also find workflows on the printers screen to aid with cleaning the print bed, and resin vat.

It isn’t perfect—no printer is. The Z-axis compression system does an excellent job of improving adhesion, but can slightly exaggerate the first layer if you’re aiming for absolute dimensional precision. The touchscreen interface is very usable, intergarets nicely with the AFU but also at times is inconsistent. For example, when previewing a print on the machine you see one estimate print time, then when you go to print the file you see another with a difference of hours. This is likely something they can resolve with a firmware update. And as with any resin printer, the slicer ecosystem and firmware updates will ultimately determine how well the machine matures over time.

But overall, the Halot-X1 offers a compelling blend of print quality, reliability, and ease of use. It’s a machine that removes a lot of the usual friction points associated with resin printing without demanding extra complexity or calibration. If you’re looking for a capable, modern resin printer that prioritises user experience and delivers consistently strong results, the Halot-X1 deserves a spot high on your shortlist. It looks as though we have a new line of competition worthy printers coming from PioCreat which is always a good thing for us consumers.

Where to buy:

Creality/PeoCreat direct: https://crealityofficialstore.sjv.io/19qvGm

Technical Details:

How to use the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Sensor

Mon, 03 Feb 2025 16:59:52 GMT

In this guide, I’ll show you how to use the HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor to measure distances and detect objects using an Arduino or another microcontroller.

Comments:

Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra Resin 3D Printer Review

Thu, 07 Nov 2024 07:16:53 GMT

Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra - 7" 9k AI Resin Printer

Elegoo's Mars 5 Ultra resin printer is poised to redefine desktop 3D resin printing with its marvellous tilt release mechanism, AI camera, self-checking capabilities, integrated Wi-Fi, and more. In this review, we delve into whether these cutting-edge features truly set a new standard for consumer level machines or simply add to the hype.

Pros:

9K Resolution & 18μm XY Accuracy
Tilt Release technology (multiple benefits explained later)
AI Camera and other advanced printer and print monitoring systems
Self Levelling Print Bed

Cons:

Lack of hinged lid
Difficulty in setting up ChituBox

Where to buy:

Amazon: https://geni.us/ElegooMars5Ultra9k

What is it?

The Elegoo Mars series has consistently set the standard for consumer-friendly desktop resin 3D printing, and the Mars 5 Ultra continues this tradition. Building on the lineage of previous Mars models, the Mars 5 Ultra refines the classic small-scale resin printer experience with enhanced precision and usability.

Like its predecessors, the Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra employs an LCD masking system to selectively cure UV-sensitive resin one layer at a time. The platform gradually rises, creating stunningly detailed models that often feature layer heights so minuscule they’re nearly invisible under casual inspection. This level of detail makes resin printers, like the Mars 5 Ultra, ideal for producing intricate miniatures, jewelry prototypes, or any other project that demands crisp, clean detail.

The Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra also introduces features that were once reserved for more expensive professional machines, such as those from Formlabs, bringing them to a price point accessible to hobbyist consumers and small businesses. These advancements make the Mars 5 Ultra an attractive option for small businesses curious about how resin printing technology might enhance their workflow or expand their product offerings. With these professional-level features, the Mars 5 Ultra provides an opportunity to explore high-quality resin printing without the significant upfront cost typically associated with such capabilities.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The build volume is 153 x 77 x 165mm which is identical to that on the earlier Mars 4 Ultra model.

Gone are the days of manually levelling the build plate thanks to a self levelling system (I love it). More on this later.

The integrated AI camera system in partnership with the new Smart Mechanical Sensor allows Elegoo to help further protect you from common user errors or print malfunctions. It's already saved me twice.

The Mars 5 Ultra shares the same highly toughened glass protecting the print screen as earlier models and the 4-inch capacitive touch screen feels very responsive thanks to the 8gb of RAM powering the printers on board processing.

I'll go over some of these features in more details throughout the review.

Shipping and Packing

As always, every thing inside the main box is well packed. Nothing is left rattling around during transit risking damage to it or other items inside ether outer box. There was a greater use of 'pillow' packaging which is easily deflated with some scissors and I could take this to plastic bag recycling at my supermarket. The foam making I've yet to be able to have recycled locally.

The instruction are placed near the top of the contents but honestly it not required for removing everything from the boxes.

I would offer up one tip and that is how to easily remove the printer itself.

First pop the box on its short side and then just slide the printer out in its ready-to-print orientation.

This is a lot easier, particularly as if you try to lift it out the box as it is shipped the friction fit requires you to have a third hand or balance on one foot as you use the other the hold the box down all the while trying not to drop your new resin printer. ��

What’s provided in the box?

Aside from a small amount of resin for printing and alcohol for post-print cleaning—both of which are typically excluded due to shipping complexities—all essential items for your initial prints are included. Elegoo and other brands avoid bundling these liquids with electronic equipment to streamline shipping. Here’s what came with my Mars 5 Ultra :

Protective face masks
USB Disk (preloaded with demo print, electronic copy of user manual and slicing software)
Printed setup and user manual

A few pairs of disposable gloves
A plastic scraper
A stainless steel scraper
Allen keys
ChituBox Pro Demo Key

Some resin filter funnels
Spare screws and bolts
AI Camera
Power supply
Resin Drip Tray (for protecting your printer)

I would also recommend treating yourself to some protective eye wear if you don't already have some. I don't know about you, but I'm already on my last pair of eyes so want to take good care of them. You may also want a respirator for when you're post processing your model depending on your sensitivity to the fumes - or use traction/open a window.

Assembly

There is very little if anything required in the way of assembly. The attaching of the build plate is intuitive and thanks to the self levelling it's now a single step process. Just ensure you don't forget to remove the protective film from the LCD panel and the build plate itself. (I may or may not have attempted to print the test print on the protective cover ��).

Instruction manual

The instructions are concise and manually comprises of; making you familiar with the names of various parts of the machines and their locations, guiding you through your first test print pre-installed on the memory stick, setting up ChituBox to slice your own models and connecting to the network manger via WiFi.

Features in more detail

This is a very subjective opinion - but I love the visual design of the latest iteration in the Mars Ultra series of MSLA machines. It's a clean and bright design with focus at the front on the large LCD screen.

Everything else including the power port, WiFi antenna, USB port and power switch can be found one the right hand of the machine towards the rear.

Levelling the print bed

So this used to be an entire section for my previous reviews for similar MSLA resin machines, however - thanks to Elegoo's hard working engineers, it's now a thing of the past.

Don't get me wrong, I know a self levelling print bed has been fairly common place on 3D resin printers before the Mars 5 Ultra came along, but they have not been available at this price point up until now.

How does it work?

This system utilises an intelligent mechanical sensor that detects the build plate's position and orientation. By pressing a single button, the printer automatically adjusts the build plate to ensure it is perfectly level, eliminating the need for manual calibration.

Automatic Tilting Resin Container

The self levelling print bed isn't the only fancy feature we're blessed with. Carrying over from the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra series printer we also have the brilliant automatically tilting resin container. To help appreciate the speed this gains we can produce a layer of the print unto twice the speed than you could on the Mars 4 Ultra.

What benefit can that have? Since you asked, a tilting resin container, or vat, in resin 3D printers provides several benefits that improve print quality and longevity of the printer:

Reduces Suction Forces: When the resin layer cures and needs to separate from the FEP film (a transparent layer at the bottom of the vat), suction forces can pull on the print, sometimes causing failures or distortions. Tilting the vat during layer separation reduces these forces by peeling the cured layer at an angle rather than all at once.
Improves Print Reliability: By decreasing suction, the risk of print detachment from the build plate is reduced. This leads to fewer failed prints, especially for larger or more complex designs with a wide surface area on each layer.
Extends FEP Film Life: Less direct suction strain on the FEP film reduces wear and tear, meaning you won’t have to replace it as often.
Enhances Print Quality: With smoother layer separations, there’s less risk of minor distortions, helping preserve the fine details of the print.
Facilitates Better Resin Flow: A tilting vat allows resin to flow more easily across the print area, ensuring an even coating for each new layer and reducing the risk of air bubbles or resin depletion in certain spots.

Overall, the addition of the titling resin container serves to enhance the reliability, print quality, and lifespan of both the printer and its components.

The AI Camera and Timelapse's

The Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra introduces an integrated AI camera, a significant enhancement that improves the ease of use in practical terms, but also add's enjoyable features such as automatic time lapsing.

The camera stands at the back-right of the build chamber and serves multiple functions:

Real-Time Monitoring: Users can observe the printing process live, allowing for immediate intervention if issues arise.
Time-Lapse Recording: The camera captures the entire print sequence, enabling the creation of time-lapse videos to document and share the printing journey.
Error Detection: Leveraging AI capabilities, the camera identifies common printing problems, such as:
Empty Build Plate Detection: Alerts users if the print fails to adhere to the build plate.
Warp Detection: Notifies users of any warping during the print, allowing for prompt corrective measures.

These features collectively enhance the printing experience by reducing material waste, saving time, and providing valuable insights into the printing process. For both novices and seasoned users, the AI camera offers peace of mind and a deeper understanding of each print's progression. However, as a function of where it is located, it is only really able to 'see' the prints after around 50mm of height.

I was worried Elegoo were using this camera as a way of jumping on the 'our product has AI' bandwagon and it would be ineffective... however I'm glad to say I was wrong. For me it has already correctly detected a case of a warped print. It paused the print, and when I saw on ChituBox (where I was watching the print live in the corner of my computer screen whilst working on other things) that it had paused I went to take a look. The screen on the machine explained it had detected something a miss and I had the option of ending the print early or resuming if I wanted to.

The warping was a small mount on the base 'foot' of the support structure and as such did not affect the printed model itself so I press resumed and continued on flawlessly.

The Timelapse's you've seen throughout this review have been captured by this same camera as was well. I would love for the camera to have it's own light inside the enclosure off centre to the lense. Perhaps filter out the UV portion of the light source used for the camera and then rebalance the colour in post automatically when the Timelapse is compile for you if required.

First Prints

Loading Resin and Starting the Print

To begin, I decided to test the printer with the included rook torture test file, conveniently pre-loaded on the memory stick. After giving the bottle of Elegoo’s Grey 'ABS-like' resin a good shake, I carefully poured it into the tank, filling up to just under the max line while wearing gloves. Using the LCD display, I easily navigated to the file, selected it, and hit print to start the process.

During the printing of the rooks (or any model), the display provides a live update with the elapsed print time, estimated remaining time, and current layer height. If you need to pause mid-print, the build plate lifts from the resin vat, allowing you to check on the print’s progress and ensure proper adhesion.

I completed three consecutive prints without any issues—each one came out perfectly, except for the first attempt when I accidentally tried to print over the protective film still on the build plate. Luckily, there was no harm done! ��

Once the print finishes, it can be left to drip back into the resin tray briefly. Next, it requires cleaning (using alcohol for this type of resin) and then curing. I opted for an automated alcohol bath that creates a strong swirl to thoroughly clean the parts, followed by a few minutes in a UV chamber to speed up the curing process.

Before I had the wash and cure stations, I would clean the parts manually with alcohol and a toothbrush, then let them cure outdoors submerged in water under the sun for a couple of days.

I’ve included high-resolution photos of the three prints I made so you can judge the quality yourself. You can click on them to enlarge and get a closer look before I share my personal thoughts further down below.

One of the most striking characteristics is the smoothness of surfaces. Layers blend seamlessly, minimizing the visible lines often associated with 3D printing. This makes the Mars 5 Ultra ideal for projects like figurines, jewellery prototypes, and miniatures, where detail and finish are critical. Edges are sharp without any warping or blurring, even on highly detailed sections, which speaks to the effectiveness of its COB light source and the Fresnel lens system. These technologies work together to spread light evenly, ensuring that each layer is consistently cured, resulting in balanced and high-quality prints across the entire build area.

Software

I am still reviewing the latest version of ChituBox software and it's Network Manager and will have a write up on this in the next couple of days. Please bear with me.

Final thoughts

Overall, the Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra is an impressive leap forward in resin printing technology, providing not only superb print quality but also a host of intelligent features that make it user-friendly and efficient. The high-resolution display produces incredibly detailed prints, capturing even the finest textures with remarkable precision. For creators who demand high fidelity in their work, whether it’s intricate miniatures, complex prototypes, or detailed jewelry, this printer truly delivers.

The addition of an integrated AI camera is a game-changer, offering real-time monitoring, time-lapse capabilities, and advanced error detection. With features like empty build plate alerts and warping detection, the camera ensures you’re aware of any issues early, preventing wasted time and materials. This function is invaluable for both beginners and seasoned users, offering peace of mind and allowing you to focus on creative work without constantly checking on the machine.

Elegoo’s self-leveling print bed system further enhances the experience, making setup quicker and more precise. With just the press of a button, the bed aligns itself automatically, eliminating the need for manual adjustments. This is especially convenient for makers who might be new to resin printing or those who simply want to streamline the process.

The Mars 5 Ultra’s built-in self-checks, including sensor-driven calibration and performance tests, add yet another layer of reliability. These features ensure that the printer maintains optimal functionality and is ready to deliver consistently high-quality prints. Together, the camera, auto-leveling, and self-check systems create an efficient workflow that minimizes trial and error and maximizes successful prints.

In short, the Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra combines professional-level capabilities with user-friendly enhancements that elevate the entire printing experience at a very affordable price point. For anyone looking to produce flawless, high-resolution prints with ease, this printer is a powerful, reliable choice that justifies its place in any serious maker’s toolkit.

Where to buy:

Amazon: Not yet available on Amazon
Elegoo direct: Not yet available on Elegoo yet

Technical Details:

AMAZING 3D Printed Faux Stained Glass - Resin Art Guide

Thu, 27 Jun 2024 08:00:30 GMT

3D Print and add some Resin to create some amazing pieces of stained 'glass'.

I’m Lewis and we’re going to be diving into the fantastic world of 3D-printed stained glass creations filled with gorgeous, colourful resin! ��

These are great fun to create on your own alongside other makers and make for fantastically gift-able personal items.

You can use this technique to create stained 'glass' sun catchers, windows, bookmarks, signs, and more.

I'll show you step by step how to create these amazing stained glass like marvels with the help of your 3D Printer and some free design files (don't worry if you can't print your own templates - I'm selling a limited number through my Etsy store if you need them). ��

At the end of the video, I will also show you how to create your own design files, using the free version of Fusion 360 either form your hand drawings or using generative AI such as ChatGPT!

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

Resin: https://geni.us/UVResistantResin (10% discount code on Amazon: 'DIYMachines')
Mica powders: https://geni.us/MicaPowder
Colour Pigments: https://geni.us/EpoxyDye
Printing filament:
One transparent: https://www.3djake.uk/3djake/petg-clear-1
And another in the colour of your choice: https://www.3djake.uk/3djake/petg-black-2

DIY Machines International Etsy Store:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/DIYMachines

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing : https://www.printables.com/model/925171-create-amazing-pieces-of-resin-stained-glass-windo

International shipping project kits on my Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/DIYMachines

Laser Cut files: I'm currently nesting and uploading more designs. You'll find a growing number availabe below. Thanks for your patience.

Community:

Discord server for this project: https://discord.gg/D58drZerT7 (A great place for questions and advice).

There is a comments section at the end of this page where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

Comments

My 1st Q&A session

lewis@diymachines.co.uk (Lewis Aburrow) — Wed, 01 May 2024 12:10:42 GMT

My Patreons sent in questions

Because I'd asked them to - I thought I'd better write out answers....

This post was released earlier to my Patreons who help support DIY Machines and keep these projects free to access. For behind the scenes access, exclusive Q&A sessions and early updates please consider becoming a Patreon or Youtube Member. Thank you.

Hello,

Thank you for all the questions you sent in. I've enjoyed sitting down and thinking through my responses. It's helped me gain a better perspective on where I am at and what I hope to achieve.

If you have any more questions after the below please don't hesitate to ask.

Where do you find project Inspiration?

The spark for a new project usually comes from everyday life—problems that need solving or just fun ideas that pop into my head. Other times it can come from seeing what others have created and a desire to recreate and share my own version of it.

I spend a lot of time tinkering and thinking about how to make my daily tasks easier or more enjoyable. Whether it's a tool to help in the kitchen or a gadget to automate a tedious task, the initial idea is always about adding value or fun. Once I've got the kernel of an idea, I like to sketch it out and think about the different elements needed to make it work. These mini projects teach me a lot about electronic, designing and components which feed through into my bigger projects.

Inspiration can also come from my viewers, who often suggest fantastic ideas or modifications to existing projects.

What challenges do you face?

Combining 3D printing with electronics isn't always straightforward. One of the main hurdles is ensuring that the electronics fit perfectly within the 3D printed parts without causing interference. This often requires precise calculations and foresight during the design phase.

Heat management can also sometime be another issue, as some components can get quite hot and potentially warp the plastic or worse.
Then there’s the integration of software with the hardware. Making sure the electronic components communicate effectively with the mechanical parts involves a lot of trial and error, and debugging can be quite time-consuming. But overcoming these challenges is what makes the final success so rewarding.

Do you have any favourite materials and tools?

I have a few favourites when it comes to materials and tools. For 3D printing, PLA is my go-to because it’s easy to print with and is quite durable for most applications. It also comes in a variety of colors, which is great for personalizing projects.

When it comes to electronics, I rely heavily on Arduino boards because they’re user-friendly, versatile, and have a massive community of users who provide a wealth of knowledge.

In terms of tools, a good digital calliper is indispensable for precise measurements, and a reliable soldering iron is a must-have for assembling electronics. I also use various software for designing both the physical parts and the electronic circuits, like Fusion 360 as CAD software for 3D modelling and Arduino's own IDEs for programming the Arduino.

How do you plan your projects?

Planning a project typically starts with a lot of brainstorming and sketching. I try to visualize how the parts will come together and identify any potential problems early on. Though I usually miss a few things for sure!

This phase is crucial for mapping out the project’s scope and complexity. Then, I move to the computer to start designing the parts in a 3D modeling program, which allows me to tweak and optimize the design before printing.

Once the design is solid, I print prototypes to test fit and function. This iterative process helps refine the design and ensures everything works together as expected. It’s a bit like puzzle-solving, trying different approaches and learning from each iteration. The planning stage is often the most time-consuming but it’s absolutely vital for a successful project.

Can you recommend any learning resources?

For those just starting out with 3D printing and electronics, the internet is a treasure trove of resources. YouTube is full of tutorials and project walkthroughs from many talented makers. When I was starting out, I watched countless videos to learn the basics and gain confidence in my own projects.
Websites like Instructables, Hackaday, and various forums are also invaluable for finding project ideas and troubleshooting help. Books can also be a great resource. There are several excellent guides on both 3D printing and electronics that go into more depth than most online resources. For hands-on learning, starter kits for both electronics and 3D printing can be extremely helpful. They usually come with all the necessary components and detailed instructions to complete several projects, which is a great way to learn by doing. I cut my teeth on an Elegoo Arduino project kit.

Do I have a personal favourite project?

Choosing a favourite project is tough, but the automated plant waterer and Weatherbot both hold a special place in my heart.
The Plant pot is not a unique idea but the the fact it combines technology with a touch of nature, automating a mundane task and keeping my plants thriving is great. It's both functional and fun, embodying what I love about DIY—using tech to solve real-world problems.

The project was also a hit with my viewers, many of whom built their own versions and shared their experiences. This feedback loop is incredibly rewarding as it shows the real-world impact of my work. The project involved challenges such as ensuring reliable moisture sensing and efficient water distribution, which pushed me to refine the design further. It’s a project that keeps evolving, much like my skills. I designed it when I was very fresh on my maker journey and have received an avalanche of useful and wise advice to improve it so I hope to build a new version soon incorporating these improvement.

The WeatherBot is an original idea, and was a bid from me to be able to view a weather forecast without the need to look a t a screen. The challenge to myself was to also be able to do it without having to read any text. If you've not seen that project you can view it here to see what I mean: https://youtu.be/4aItZ0XFh_o

Thanks again for these questions, there are a few more which I have not finished my answer to so I hope to share those responses next week. Keep any more questions coming.

Until the next post, do some good, and ciao for now.
Lewis

🥳 New Project Video: Kinetic Coasters

lewis@diymachines.co.uk (Lewis Aburrow) — Wed, 01 May 2024 11:44:32 GMT

CRAZY COASTERS with a TWIST!

Laser or 3D Print some DIY Magic.

Hello,

The project video for the Kinetic Coasters projects is complete! Embedded below is the final version for you to see. You can also find out more eon this projects dedicated page here on diymachines.co.uk

These coasters have a been a lesson in scoping out requirements for me. At a quick glance I expected the project to be a quick and easy addition to the catalogue of projects for makers to enjoy. This turned out to be an ill-informed mistake, and my light hearted approach consistently threw up problems which I had not thought about at the beginning.

I needed to learn about the laser cutting machine itself (Creality Falcon 2), the software to control it and program the cut paths (LightBurn), and how to work with thin plywood sheets effectively.

On this journey I also learned about features of Fusion 360 I had not needed to know about previously (the 'Arrange' tool and DXF exporting for example). An amount of this time is spent finding out what tool I need to learn before then learning to use the tool itself.

I have enjoyed the experience and hope that my efforts have provided a project and ongoing documentation which hides these pain points from the maker who may have chosen to reproduce this project for themselves.

This new knowledge of tools, materials, and processes will help me with future projects. More than this though, my realisation that every project (no matter the apparent complexity) deserves proper planning.

I will be spending the next week documenting the project in writing and publishing the design files.

I also have some more news...

House Hunting

As you already know, I've been looking to move home so that I may have a larger space to create these projects in the hope of being to create more projects, and a greater variety of projects.

I've had an offer accepted on a bungalow in Cornwall! In particular, I'm excited about the detached garage which I intend to become the new home of DIY Machines. At the moment I build and film my creations from 2/3rds of the spare bedroom. It is less than ideal.

It's early days, and the process for getting a moving in date is in motion. I'm really looking forward to sharing my journey on this new adventure with you.

-----------------------------

Thank you for your support and kindness in helping make these projects a reality.

With help and encouragement from people like you I find the energy and passion to pursue new projects - even when the project requires more from me then I may have first expected.

Ciao for now,
Lewis

Make your own Kinetic Coasters

Tue, 02 Apr 2024 15:49:49 GMT

KINETIC COASTERS with a TWIST! Laser or 3D Printable

Today I’ll show you how to create these amazing self-moving Kinetic Coasters.

I’ve created loads of designs for you to make, in fact, so many that you can mix and match them to create literally thousands of unique combinations and effects. Keep them in their natural colour or paint and decorate them however you desire.

Not only can you satisfy your fidgety fidding fingers by turning any coaster by hand - the base, of course, conceals a hidden secret. Place a coaster against the base and it will automatically detect the presence of a coaster and begin to turn it for you automagically. And thanks to some tiny concealed magnets you connect several up in chain and watch as they all turn mesmerisingly beneath your glasses.

This is made possible by the tiny DC motor, batteries and sensors inside the base.

These coasters are a great way of expressing yourself at home or work, make a lovely personalisable project to gift, and are an ideal activity to assemble with younger makers.

The ones above in the video have been made from Plywood cut on the Creality Falcon 2 22w diode laser, and yes, 3D printing them is also possible, though I feel that there is a certain charm about the wooden materials for coasters. Stick around because at the end of the video I'll also explain how I use this laser to easily create custom glassware for gifts. ��

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

3mm Sheet Plywood or similar https://geni.us/3mmPlywood
AA Battery Holders (x2) https://geni.us/AABatteryPCBMount
Small Geared DC Motor (x1) https://geni.us/MiniGearedDCMotor
Super glue https://geni.us/SuperGlueLongNeck
Tiny magnets 3x3mm (4 for the base, 8x per coaster) https://geni.us/3x3mmMagnet
Batteries https://geni.us/AABatteries ■ Reed switches - Normally Open Type. (x4) https://geni.us/ReedSwitch
And some Bolts and screws (M4x5mm x four and M1.6x3mm x two)
3D Jakes filament: https://geni.us/3DJake

Projects PCB: https://www.pcbway.com/project/member/?bmbno=2883CCE7-0114-49

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing : https://www.printables.com/model/827330-kinetic-coasters-with-a-twist-laser-or-3d-print-so

International shipping project kits on my Etsy shop: https://diymachines.etsy.com/listing/1693030560

Laser Cut files: I'm currently nesting and uploading more designs. You'll find a growing number availabe below. Thanks for your patience.

Community:

Discord server for this project: https://discord.gg/D58drZerT7 (A great place for questions and advice).

There is a comments section at the end of this page where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

Wiring Diagram:

I created a custom PCB (see the adjacent image) which you can order from PCBway or my Etsy store, to help make the assembly of the electronics much easier.

DIY Machines Etsy Store

However if you wanted to connect your own circuit the diagram below shows you how everything is connected in my design.

Assembling 3D Printed Coasters

The very first step is to insert magnets. Take a look at this section of the main video in regards to pre-organising your magnets: https://youtu.be/jpQqE1M2NMI?si=U6G2IYq7uAkXstsC&t=632

Then you can arrange the magnets into the holes of the 3D printed base with the following pole arrangement (again take a look at the video linked above - that link will take you straight to the relevant part of the video).

You can use a pair of pliers or a clamp to press fit the magnets into place.

With the magnets in place we can now take the giant cog and place it on the central spindle. The side of the cog with the raised central section (see photos below) should be facing upwards. This helps to keep alignment with neighbouring coasters without creating too much friction by rubbing on the bottom or top pieces of the coaster.

The top piece is then press fitted over both of the lower sections. If the fit between your parts is a little loos you can use some glue to secure them but they have been designed to be press fitted together.

Once assembled your 'sandwich' of 3D printed parts should be stacked up as shown below. This coaster will work with other 3D printed coasters and the 3D Printed Base station (see below). It will also work with any of the laser cut coasters and base station so feel free to mix and match to your hearts content.

Assembling the Smart Storage Base

The assembly of the smart storage base's electronics follows the same procedure as shown in the main project video. You'll just find that you have fewer parts as I have managed to combine several laser cut parts into one 3D printed part for a lot of this step.

One the electronics have been assembled they can be bolted to the base. The central cutout is designed to allow the motors shaft and the soldered wires to pass through for. flush fit of the PCB itself.

With the PCB attached you can also add the large cog. This should be fitted with a small gap remaining between it and the underside of the 3D print out PCB is mounted to.

This entire sub-assembly is then fitted over the top of the base (after installing magnets in the same pattern as the above coaster - with only the 'B pole outward' magnets being installed).

The holder for the coasters and the base on leg's which covers the electronics are then installed on top of this.

Comments

How To Make Large Neon LED Signs

Sat, 20 Jan 2024 18:11:58 GMT

How To Make Neon LED Signs | Low Cost with Alexa, Hue & WiFi Controls

I’m Lewis, and this is DIY Machines. The channel where I show you step-by-step how to build your own awesome projects. Today I’m making some large neon effect LED wall signs and I wanted to share with you how you can easily build your own design with inbuilt wifi and Alexa control.

This project is similar to my surprisingly popular video showing how to make portable and dimmable desktop neon signs .. Now, several people wanted to know how to make these much larger signs which can be very costly to buy pre-made so I’ll show you how I built these three backed with a false living wall backdrop, coffee beans and astro turf.

As mentioned, the signs can be controlled using Alexa and Philips Hue, allowing you easily turn it on, off or to any desired brightness. This is thanks to WLED running on the ESP8266 here on the reverse.

The entire system runs at 5v, and as sometimes it’s easier or more appropriate to control your lights with a physical control instead of having to use your voice or find your phone - I’ve included a discreet dimmer and power control at the bottom of the frame.

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

5v power supply : https://geni.us/5vPowerSupply5a (allow at least 2A per metre)
Neon effect LED strips: https://geni.us/NeonLEDStrip5v
ESP8266 Dev Board: https://geni.us/wemosD1
MOSFET Transistor (IRLB8721PBF) (x2) https://geni.us/IRLB8721PBF
Logic Level Shifter (74AHCT125): https://geni.us/74AHCT125-LLS
Barrel connector suitable for your amperage: https://geni.us/HighAmpDCBarrel
50k Potentiometer: https://geni.us/Potentiometers
Slide toggle switch: https://geni.us/SlideSwitchSPDT
Power switch: https://geni.us/Power-Switch
Electrical hook-up wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
3D Jakes filament: https://geni.us/3DJake

Projects PCB: https://www.pcbway.com/project/member/?bmbno=2883CCE7-0114-49

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/730305-large-neon-led-signs-low-cost-with-alexa-hue-wifi-

International shipping Etsy shop: www.diymachines.etsy.com

Community:

Discord server for this project: (A great place for questions and advice).

There is a comments section at the end of this page where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

Wiring Diagram:

I created a custom PCB (see the adjacent image) which you can order from PCBway or my Etsy store, to help make the assembly of the electronics much easier.

DIY Machines Etsy Store

However if you wanted to connect your own circuit the diagram below shows you how everything is connected in my design.

Comments

Snapmaker J1S Review

Wed, 15 Nov 2023 18:31:36 GMT

Snapmaker J1S

This printer has been available for just over a year (first released on November 8th 2022). Now with some experience under its (timing) belt and slight revision we put it to the test. ��

Pros:

Arrives almost completely ready to run
Two independant extruders
Some very impressive print speeds
Enclosed printing volume for maintaining heat

Cons:

About average build volume when printing in 'default mode'
Fans are quite noisy
Reasonably long time for the hot bed and nozzle to pre-heat

Where to buy:

Snapmaker: Snapmaker J1S
Amazon: Snapmaker J1S

What is it?

The Snapmaker J1S is a high-quality 3D printer featuring a dual extruder (IDEX) system. It stands out for its ability to use two different filaments in one print, thanks to its two extruders. This feature, along with the vibration-compensation technology, allows for higher print speeds while maintaining good print quality. The printer's build volume of 300 × 200 × 200 mm³ is considered mid-range, suitable for most projects but not for very large objects. However, the maximum speed of 350 mm/s is notable, especially for a printer with IDEX capability.

The Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

So, the Snapmaker J1S is an FDM, IDEX, CoreXY printer with vibration compensation.... got that?

Just incase, here's those terms explained:

FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling) printers have been found in domestic homes far longer than other 3D printing technologies such as resin based MSLA (Masked StereoLithogrAphy). As such their price continues to become more affordable and the technology is proven, refined and easy to work with. I cut my teeth on 3D printing with an FDM printer and mostly use them to this day.

IDEX (Independent Dual Extruders) offers the capability to use two different filaments simultaneously, which is a significant advantage in multi-material printing.

CoreXY printers are a type of 3D printer that uses a precise and efficient mechanism for moving the print head. In this design, two stepper motors control the movement along the X and Y axes in a coordinated manner, allowing for fast and accurate printing. The print bed typically moves only up and down (Z-axis), contributing to a more stable printing process, especially for taller objects. This configuration is known for its speed, precision, and compact design.

Vibration Compensation is a algorithmically driven feature that reduces vibrations caused by the movement of printer parts (by anticipating changes in direction and speed), thereby improving print quality and allowing for higher printing speeds without sacrificing detail or accuracy. This does work in hand with the Snapmaker's rock solid frame construction.

Visually it is a very sleek machine thanks to Snapmakers easily recognisable use of Aluminium Alloys encompassing the single piece die casted base and upper frame. The result is a very sturdy machine, ables to dissipate heat with the minimal of wobble and thankfully fingerprints. (Though the acrylic panels are magnets for those so stick to using the handles!)

You'll also find adjustable LED lighting concealed in the top of the enclosure which provides more than enough light to monitor your prints. Something occasionally overlooked on other enclosed printers.

Let's go over some other features worth noting in quick fashion before delving into others in more detail shortly:

The power supply is built in, so need for a chunky power brick to be concealed somewhere.
The top panel is a sturdy sheet of aluminium that can be simply lifted up at anytime. It is held in place by magnets.
The default nozzle size supplied is 0.4mm on both extruders. Four silicone socks are also included. The first two are preinstalled.
The spool holders for your filament are located on the back. It looks good but I just don't find it practical so will be making my own mounts to relocate them to the sides of the machine.

The Snapmaker J1S comes with a weighty glass backed PEI print bed. All the 3D printers I use have a PEI coated surface, but are backed on a removable, magnetic and flexible steel sheet. So, naturally I was worried about removing prints with ease.

So far (I've printed about 20 objects) every single one has detached itself whilst cooling after a successful print. I'm really happy and impressed by this. I imagine that with proper long term maintenance and cleaning the sheet should continue to perform. The sheet is removable by opening the front two clips, so you could treat yourself to a second print surface and swap them out in order to achieve a quicker succession of prints.

I have checked and Snapmaker do keep additional print beds and print nozzles in stock online. You can also get different nozzle sizes to suite your requirements and preferences.

Print Speed

This is one of the headlines features for the J1S so let's do some comparisons to put it in perspective. I could bamboozle you with numbers such as its maximum speed of 350 mm/s and maximum acceleration of 10,000 mm/s2 but realistically these numbers mean little to the maker. What we really care about is how quickly our print job will be completed whilst the quality and reliability are maintained.

I've compared the printers I have to hand, they are also found at a smiler price point then say a Creality or Elegoo branded machine.

Benchy

Kickstarter Torture Test

It's worth noting that the Snapmaker J1S can effectively 'halve' the print time when printing in 'Mirror' or 'Copy' mode by printing two objects simultaneously. More about that further down the review.

There is an unusual result when looking at the print times for the Kickstarter Torture Test . Whilst watching the J1S complete this print I did notice some unusual path planning and a tendency for it to momentarily pause repeatably which resulted in the inflated print time.

Outside of the confines of running these popular tests the machine defiantly feels fast.

IDEX

As mentioned earlier, IDEX stands for 'Independent Dual Extruders'.

On the J1S this means we have two independent extruders which can be heated to independent temperatures and travel left to right independently. Because of the CoreXY motion system employed they are required to move forwards and backs as one and they of course share the same Z-axis (up and down). What benefits does IDEX bring to this 3D printer? Well actually, a fair few...

Modes

The 3D printer offers four different printer modes thanks to the IDEX system which can be selected either at the time of 'slicing' (the process of converting the 3D models in 2D slices and then motion paths which the printer will then follow to recreate the model) or on the printer itself when loading a print file.

According to Snapmaker, the modes are as follows:

Default: The printer acts as your common 3D printer and quickly reproduces a single object using just one of the two extruders which you preselect.
Copy: Print two identical objects in one go. It is especially suitable for batch printing, empowering studios and enthusiasts. If one of the prints runs into an issue, you can stop that print without affecting the other. This mode is a lifesaver for a promised delivery on a tight schedule.
Mirror: J1s directly mirrors your model and prints the original and the mirrored one in one go. For a symmetrical model, you can import half of it and print it in Mirror Mode to cut your wait time by 50%, perfect for quick drafts and concept models. Like in the Copy Mode, you can stop one print without affecting the other.
Backup: With Backup Mode, you print with one extruder while the other stands by. If the working extruder bumps into a hiccup, the stand-by one would take over the job seamlessly and still deliver a fabulous print to you.

Multi-materials and Colours

Having independently heated extruders allows you to work with not only two different colours interwoven in a single print, but also two different materials. For example you could print a wheel for a remote controlled car in a single object using PETG for the hub of the wheel and flexible TPU for the tyre itself creating a single pre-assembled component.

Connectivity

The main unit features the power switch and kettle lead connection at the rear of the machine, while the base unit's front panel hosts the USB port and large 5-inch touchscreen.

5 Inch Touch Screen

There is a very large and clear touch screen control mounted at the front centre of the machine. This provides clear previews when navigating print files as well as live print statistics during a current print job.

There are many items that can be controlled during prints such as:

Internal lighting brightness
Print speed (between Silent, Standard, or Fast)
The ability to cancel just one object if it fails during a multi object print - this is without interrupting the other items
Adjust the settings for either extruder (Z offset, flow-rate and temperature) or the heated print bed
Alter the fan speed
Enable 'Backup' mode mid print allowing the machine to automatically switch print heads if an error is encountered on the current one (such as a filament run-out)

There is a very clear, well-designed, wizard which steps you through tasks such as its initial set-up and plenty of on device help menus handily linked to at the right moments which saves you needing to return to the printed instructions.

Shipping and Packing

The printer arrived extremely quickly and well packed. In the image below I have already removed the plastic shrink wrapping (to protect it from moisture) and the band straps. Word of warning here, the band straps are what keep the top and bottom sections of the printers shipping box together so ensure you have it near to where you want to unpack it before removing the band clamps.

The box measures about 62 x 51 x 53cm (WxDxH) and it has a very weighty reassuring feel. You may find the help of a second person welcome when lifting the machine from the box and removing the plastic bag at the same time.

After the lid has been lifted up you'll immediately see a well positioned 'Unpacking Guide'. This is brief, concise and perfectly steps you through unpacking the machine and removing the transit restraints used to protect the machine during shipping.

What else is included?

Print removal spatular
Spanners for changing nozzle
Two spare silicone socks
USB Memory Stick
Spool holders to be installed.

USB cable
Selection of Allen Keys
Print bed fan (to be installed)
Tweezers
Cleaning cloth

Snips
Two 1kg samples of Filament
Cable clip
Bolts for assembly
Wire brush

Assembly

There are only three parts which require attachment during assembly, the two spool holders which clip onto the rear of the machine and the fan assembly which you bolt onto the rear (via the inside of the machine). This is such a streamlined process and easily makes the J1S one of the quickest 3D printers to set up that I have experienced.

In essence, the assembly process can be broken down into the following steps:

Thread the power lead for the fan assembly through the rear of the machine then use it's clips to hold it temporarily in position.
Insert and tighten three screws from inside the machine.
Clip on the two spool holders on the rear of the machine.
During the on-screen setup wizard the machine will raise the print bed so you can access and install two more bolts.

Rest assured that these steps are straightforward and easily manageable.

Instruction manual

The included instructions are short and only consist of a Quick Start Guide, Unpacking Instructions and Safety Brief. You can download and read the Quick Start Guide using the adjacent button here.

Don't be fooled though. The on screen Wizard and help sections on the built in screen on the Snapmaker IDEX printer more than cover what you need to do at the correct moments.

First Print

You're a Wizard

Before your very first print the Snapmaker J1S will guide you through four main steps to ensure that the printer is in tip-top shape. This boils down to checking the heating elements and sensors behave as expected. Setting the Z, X and Y offsets and then confirming these setting with a test print.

The heating check is handled automatically by the machine. For the Z Offset you are required to remove the glass print bed (just loosen two clips at the front and slide it out) so that the nozzles can access the built in sensor in the main platform of the print bed.

Here you can see the various copper contact points the machine uses to calibrate the Z, X and Y positioning of the nozzles in relation to one another and the print bed itself.

During the Z calibration an onscreen bar is displayed as each print nozzle probes the surface in turn. This onscreen bar graph shows you how much and in what direction to turn the large adjustment nobs on the front corners of the print bed.

It's all very easy and simple thanks to the well designed Wizard.

Loading the Filament

The two filament spools are mounted on the back of the machine. To load the included sample spools (each are a very generous 1kg) you simply place them on the spool holders and begin to feed the filament strand through the white tubing. For reference, the two filament paths cross over, so when viewed from the back, the filament spool on the left goes to the extruder on the left when viewed from the front.

You can remove the top of the machine to better see the filament as it passes through this tubing. The top of the machine is only held into place with magnets so no need for tools.

You then pre-heat the nozzle using the on screen control and then press 'Load'. This starts the extruder gears turning and as you push the filament in it will grab the strand and begin to eject the filament out of the nozzle. Once you are happy that it has purged any previous filaments you can press the onscreen button to finish the load process. Unloading happens in the same fashion but in reverse.

Printing the included Sample Model

There are two sample models included in the printers onboard memory storage. A Benchy and a dual filament, print in place, flexible shark. Naturally I started with the Benchy and printed it four times to test multiple settings.

For each print I adjusted the print settings on the printer itself. I printed the following (left to right in images below):

One at Standard setting
One set to Fast print speed
Two in Mirror mode
Two in Copy mode

Click on either of the photos of the sample print to view a larger size and judge the quality for yourself. I am very impressed. They were all printed at a 0.15mm layer height. No lifting or warping of the base occurred and extrusion appears to be consistent. Nothing unexpected here. All the prints self released from the print bed when allowed to cool.

Torture Test

A mere print of Snapmakers preselected model would not suffice for a comprehensive review. Naturally, they would have selected a model that falls within the machine's capabilities.

Therefore, I have opted to print a torture test instead. The torture test, created by AutoDesk and Kickstarter, is my go-to for all FDM printer reviews as it enables me to thoroughly test the machine's limits in overhang, bridging, and retraction abilities. Moreover, it provides a fair and convenient basis for comparison.

Don't forget to click on any image to open a higher full width and resolution copy to inspect for yourself.

I can say there are both good and bad surprising results. The elephant in the room is the amount of stringing on the top spires. The rest of the test does not exhibit stringing issues and neither have any of the numerous real-world prints I've been doing on this machine. Perhaps this specific testing scenario shows the machine in an unrealistic scenario?

The other tests performed well with features such as bridging excelling which is helped of course by the printer ability to move quickly whilst bridging and the powerful cooling.

All of the cylinders printed for the negative object tolerances were removable, except for the 0.2mm and 0.3mm ones which appeared to have connected too well to the main body to count as a success.

Software

Snapmaker Luban (Version 4.10 at time of writing) is a software application designed specifically for Snapmaker devices by Snapmaker. It's an integrated platform that supports tasks related to 3D printing, laser engraving, and CNC carving, which are the main functionalities offered by Snapmaker machines.

When you set your machine to the Snapmaker J1S only the 3D printing related features will show which simplifies the workflow.

In the realm of 3D printing software, Snapmaker Luban stands out as one of the remarkably user-friendly and efficient option, particularly for those using Snapmaker machines of course. Designed with an intuitive interface reminiscent of the popular Cura platform, Luban makes the transition into 3D printing smooth and approachable, even for beginners. It simplifies the otherwise complex process of generating G-code and adjusting intricate print settings, making the experience less daunting and more accessible.

One of Luban's key strengths lies in its versatility and depth of control. The software adeptly handles a variety of file formats like STL, 3MF, and OBJ, catering to a broad spectrum of 3D printing projects. This flexibility is enhanced by its comprehensive customization options, allowing users to fine-tune every aspect of their print job. From adjusting print speed and layer height to infill density, Luban provides a granular level of control, ensuring that users can achieve the desired quality and precision in their prints.

What really elevates Snapmaker Luban in the 3D printing community is its perfect blend of simplicity and advanced functionality. It boasts quick slicing capabilities and efficient workflow, enabling users to resize, edit, and prepare models for printing with remarkable ease. The software also facilitates smooth WiFi connectivity for effortless file transfer to Snapmaker 3D printers. Regular updates ensure that Luban stays ahead of the curve, continuously enhancing its features and compatibility. Free and specifically tailored for Snapmaker hardware, Luban isn't just a software tool; it's an integral component for 3D printing enthusiasts and professionals looking to bring their creative visions to life with minimal fuss and maximum efficiency.

Final Thoughts

In summary, the Snapmaker J1 stands out as a robust and versatile 3D printer, particularly notable for its Independent Dual Extruder (IDEX) system. It excels in printing with a variety of materials, offering impressive speed and precision. The user-friendly features like its touch screen, auto bed-leveling, and filament runout sensor make it accessible to both beginners and seasoned hobbyists.

While it lacks the multifunctional capabilities of some other Snapmaker models, its specialized focus on 3D printing with advanced features like mirror printing and backup mode makes it a strong contender in its category. The J1 is an excellent choice for those seeking a high-quality, reliable 3D printer for complex, multi-material projects.

Where to buy:

Snapmaker: Snapmaker J1S
Amazon: Snapmaker J1S

How to Build a Smart Magic Mirror

Fri, 29 Sep 2023 13:22:04 GMT

Build your own Super Smart Magic Mirror

I’m Lewis, and this is DIY Machines. The channel where I show you step-by-step how to build your own awesome projects. Today we’re going to make ourselves a high-tech magic mirror featuring customisable modules, presence sensors, built in dimmable lighting, and an (optional) attitude problem….

Each morning when I wake up I check my phones calendar, followed by the weather app followed by the news and more. I can end up reading in bed for 30 minutes when I’m supposed to be getting ready or worse yet just accidentally fall asleep again.

So this is my solution, move all this information to a digital smart mirror and leave my phone out of the bedroom. Now when I rise I swing my legs outta bed and stumble to the kitchen, checking in on my mirror before pouring myself that cup of ambition.

All this is powered by a wifi connected Raspberry Pi and some free open source software. I included a recessed PIR motion sensor which tells the monitor to sleep when no one is present to save on power consumption. (We've all got to do our bit).

I’ve also embedded this simple touch button on the front of the mirror that allows us to easily toggle the lights on and off as well as adjust their brightness with a longer press.

You’ll find a huge list of 3rd party modules you can add to your own mirror, from train departures, Spotify 'now playing' information, to live wait times at Disney World.

On this page you'll find everything you need to know to be able to build your own. You’ll need a 3D printer and a few basic electronic components. Everything I used is linked to below, and further down have included some helpful tips and an FAQ. Enjoy.

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

LED Aluminium channels: https://geni.us/LED-Channel-Flat
LED COB Lights: https://geni.us/COB-LED-24v-White
LED Dimmer control: https://geni.us/LED-Dimmer-Button
LED Power Supply: https://geni.us/24v-Power-Supply
Raspberry Pi: https://geni.us/RaspberryPiV4
PIR Sensor: https://geni.us/PIR-Sensor
Memory Card: https://geni.us/Micro-SD
Pi Power Supply: https://geni.us/PiPowerSupply
Acrylic: https://geni.us/AcrylicSheet
Two-way mirror film: https://geni.us/Two-Way-Mirror-Film
Monitor: https://geni.us/Monitor-Screen

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing:

International shipping Etsy shop: www.diymachines.etsy.com

Wood Cutting Calculator

Use the adjacent fields to enter the width of the wood you intend to use of for the front frame and the width of the wood for the rear frame. (Both need to be entered vent if they are the same). Also enter the width and height of you piece of mirror material. All measurements should be in CM. The calculator allows for 2.5cm of overlap in front of the material surface.

(This calculator is provided as is - you should ensure you agree with its results before using them to make cuts).

Community:

Discord server for this project: https://discord.gg/dPy4ArAebn (A great place for questions and advice).

There is a comments section at the end of this page where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

Wiring Diagram:

You will need to connect power to your Raspberry Pi as well as your choice of HDMI monitor. If you are using a PIR sensor breakout board then the wires should be connected as shown below. The length of these wires will depend on the distance between where you will install your Raspberry Pi and the top of the frame where the PIR in installed.

Preparing and configuring the Magic Mirror Software & Raspberry Pi

I am currently completing this guide and should have it fully written by the end of this weekend. (End of September) Thank you for bearing with me.

The following steps explain step-by-step how to install the software for this project

I'll guide you through:

Flashing the Raspberry Pi OS onto the SD card
Configure it heedlessly to connect to wifi and accept SSH connections
Install Magic Mirror
Install and configure modules
Set it up to start the software automatically after it boots
Set the screen to switch on and off when motion is detected

Installing and configuring Raspbian / Pi OS on to your SD card

To begin with you will need to download the Raspberry Pi Imager from the foundations website: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/

Once you have downloaded and installed the software you can insert your Micro SD card into your PC and select 'Choose OS' followed by 'Raspberry Pi OS (32 bit)'.

After this choose your Micro SD card (be sure to select the correct drive if you have more than one connected as it will be formatted).

After selecting the correct storage media for flashing click on the cog icon so that we may pre-save some settings. You'll want to:

set the 'Hostname' to something useful such as 'MagicMirror'.
Enable SSH (this will let us connect to it remotely later).
Set a username and password for login into the Raspberry Pi OS.
Pre-fill the wifi credentials for the network you want you Magic Mirror to connect to.

With these details pre-set you can begin the writing process to the SD card. Your computer may require to authorise the Raspberry Pi Imager software so that it has the ability to format the memory card.

This might take a few minutes and you should let to imaging software verify the write process was successful. After this is complete you will be notified. The micro SD card can then be removed and fitted into the Raspberry Pi.

At this point, if you want to, you can connect the HDMI display.

Connect the power and give the Pi a few minutes to complete the first boot and connect to your wifi network. We now have a few ways to find the IP address of your Pi...

If you have a monitor connected

Temporarily connect a USB keyboard and mouse (wired or wireless is fine). After logging in (if you are not logged in automatically at boot) you can hover your mouse over the networking icon in the top right of the window. The icon is made up of two adjacent light blue arrows, one pointing up and the other down.

Using your routers IP tables:

When you use a microSD card loaded with the OS and preconfigure your wifi credentials, automatic allotment of an IP to the Raspberry Pi takes place. The router's DHCP is the one that allots and records these assigned IP addresses. The details are available in the router's address table.

The method for accessing this table varies by brand. As an example, on my Google Wifi network I can use the Google Home App, tap 'Wifi' and then 'Devices' to see a list of currently connected devices and their respective IP addresses.

Identifying which one is the Pi's IP address is easy. This is because when pre-configuring the Raspberry Pi OS we chose a 'Hostname" ('MagicMirror' in my case).

Connect to the Pi

Now we now the Pi's IP address we can connect to it via SSH and then begin issuing commands. From a Windows PC you'll need to open a command prompt (this works on Windows 10 and 11 ) and on Mac open a Terminal window. Now enter the following:

ssh lewis@192.168.86.228

Substituting 'lewis' for the username you specified when installing Raspberry Pi OS, and the IP address with the correct one you identified for your Pi in the previous step. You will then be prompted for your password - don't worry if you see nothin when typing, just carry on.

Installing Magic Mirror

First step is to ensure we have the latest version of Node.js. We can download it with the following command:

curl -sL https://deb.nodesource.com/setup_18.x | sudo -E bash -

followed by the below command to install it:

sudo apt install -y nodejs

This will take a couple of minutes depending on your Raspberry Pi and the internet connection. It will have completed when you are returned to the command prompt.

Next we will clone the repository for the open source Magic Mirror software:

git clone https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror

Move to folder for the repository we just downloaded:

cd MagicMirror/

and then install the application:

npm run install-mm

This step can take some time to complete (perhaps anywhere between 10 minutes up to 30 minutes depending on the processing power of your Pi). Treat yourself to a short break and enjoy a cup of tea. Once it has completed we can make a copy of config file and then run the magic mirror in its default configuration to check everything is working so far. Run the following commands:

cp config/config.js.sample config/config.js

npm run start

Configuring default modules

The Magic Mirror Software (MMS) comes with several pre-installed modules. They are as follows:

Clock
Calendar
Weather
News Feed
Compliments
Hello World (used to display static text on the mirror)
Alert (displays notifications from other modules )

You can find out more specifics for these modules on the MMS documentation pages.

Magic Mirror modules are configured in the config/config.js file. You can use a text editor or code editor to edit this file. To open it in using the 'Nano' text base editor you can type:

sudo nano config/config.js

If you've not used the Nano editor before don't worry. Nano is a simple and beginner-friendly text editor commonly found on Unix-based systems. Here are a few simple tips and commands:

Navigating the Text:

Use the arrow keys (up, down, left, right) to move the cursor around the text.
You can also use the Page Up and Page Down keys to navigate larger portions of the text.
To move directly to the beginning or end of a line, use the Ctrl + A and Ctrl + E shortcuts, respectively.

Editing Text:

Simply start typing to insert text at the cursor's position.
Use the Backspace key to delete characters to the left of the cursor.
To cut/copy and paste text, use the Ctrl + K , Ctrl + U , and Ctrl + Shift + V shortcuts, respectively.

Saving a File:

To save your changes, press Ctrl + O . Nano will ask you to confirm the filename; press Enter to confirm. If you opened an existing file, it will be overwritten. If it's a new file, you'll be prompted to provide a name.

Exiting Nano:

To exit Nano, press Ctrl + X . If you have unsaved changes, Nano will ask if you want to save them. Press Y to save or N to discard. Then, Nano will exit.

Search and Replace:

To search for text within the file, press Ctrl + W . Enter the search term, and Nano will find and highlight the first occurrence.
To replace text, press Ctrl + \ . Enter the search term, the replacement term, and choose options for case-sensitivity and confirmation.

As you look down through the configuration document you'll see separate sections for each of the modules and within these section will be the various options available and their set values. Any option not mentioned will take the default value as specified in the documentation for that Magic Mirror module.

This page: https://docs.magicmirror.builders/modules/configuration.html#example on the Magic Mirror documentation pages explains the available options and values. For example, the 'Position' option set's the location of where the module will be loaded onscreen. Just a few of the possible values are top_bar , top_left , top_center , top_right.

Installing and configuring 3rd party modules:

There is an ever growing list of 3rd party modules which is maintained on this page: https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/wiki/3rd-party-modules . Each one is installed an and configured in slightly different but similar ways. As an example I will guide you through installing and configuring the popular NowPlayingOnSpotify module.

(This part of the guide is still being completed - thank you for your patience. Lewis, September 30th 2023)

Comments

Creating the Ultimate 3D Printing Desk Station

Wed, 19 Jul 2023 17:47:12 GMT

How to upgrade your desk to include smart responsive LED lighting and 3D printed upgrades to make your life easier!

I've been dreaming of building the ultimate work station for my design and 3D printing, so I took a sit/standing electric desk from Fezibo and upgraded it with modular storage, smart LED lighting and a iOS17 iPhone Standby Screen desk charger.

The project showcases a myriad of upgrade ideas, which include:

Smart Responsive Lighting:

Beyond their aesthetic appeal, the LEDs have functional importance. We leverage WLED and an Octoprint plugin to synchronize the color and animation of the LEDs with your 3D printer's current status. This innovative approach can subtly inform you of any errors or the ongoing progress of your prints, even if the LEDs are located in a different room, thanks to WiFi connectivity.

Honeycomb Storage Wall (HWS):

This is an open-source, 3D printable, modular system by RostaP . You might already be familiar with its grid of tessellating honeycombs, which are both quick to print and frugal on filament consumption (around 50g per panel). This grid can host a variety of ready-designed holders and mods shared by the global community of makers.

The project contains add-ons that were freely shared by others. If your needs are more specific, creating your own additions is a straightforward task thanks to documentation provided by RostaP.

iOS 17 iPhone Standby Display:

The forthcoming iOS 17 update for iPhones features a 'smart home' display mode that automatically activates when your iPhone is horizontally docked on a charger. I've engineered the a 3D printable stand to accommodate a low-cost third-party MagSafe charger with space for a small decorative plant and an AirPods Pro case.

You can freely download this model from here: https://www.printables.com/model/531092-magsafe-desk-stand-for-ios17-standby

Here's the charger compatible with my design: https://geni.us/MagSafeWirelessCharger .

Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/531092-magsafe-desk-s tand-for-ios17-standb y

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

List of items used in this project and where to find them:
24v WS2811 FCOB LED’s: https://geni.us/WS2811-FCOB
Aluminium LED diffusion channels: https://geni.us/LEDDiffusionChannel
3D Printer Filament: https://www.3djake.uk
Logic Level Shifter (74AHCT125): https://geni.us/74AHCT125-LLS
ESP8266 Dev Board: https://geni.us/wemosD1
24v Power Supply (6 amp+): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply6A
Some 20AWG wire (0.8128mm in diameter): https://geni.us/20AWG
3M Command Hanging Strips: https://geni.us/CommandStrips
MagSafe Charger: https://geni.us/MagSafeWirelessCharger
3D Printable iOS 17 MagSafe Stand: https://www.printables.com/model/531092-magsafe-desk-stand-for-ios17-standby

PCB from Geoleaf project which I used to connect the Microcontrollers and logic level shifters: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1084096956

FAQ / Support

Discord sever for project:

Comments

Elegoo Neptune 4 and 4 Pro Review

Fri, 23 Jun 2023 19:49:49 GMT

Elegoo Neptune 4 & 4 Pro

We put to test the speediest and most precise Elegoo's, yet!

New for 2023, Elegoo has brought out the Neptune 4 range of FDM 3D printers. Both the Neptune 4 and Neptune 4 Pro are most definitely fast, whilst still being able to maintain the Elegoo print-integrity all predecessors have.

Pros:

Still easy to assemble (includes video tutorial)
Multiple integrated fans for optimal cooling
Klipper Integration for very impressive print speeds
Revised and upgraded levelling springs

Cons:

No printed instructions (though this is better environmentally)
Fans are quite noisy
Reasonably long time for the hot bed and nozzle to pre-heat (due to the increased nozzle temperatures).

Where to buy:

Elegoo: Elegoo Neptune 4 -or- Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro
3D Jake (they usually have stock): Elegoo Neptune 4 -or- Neptune 4 Pro
Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 4 Printers

What is it?

Introducing the latest addition to the world of 3D printing - the Elegoo Neptune 4. This masterpiece utilizes Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) technology to create intricate 3D parts. By methodically depositing one layer of hot plastic at a time and fusing it seamlessly with the previous layer, the Neptune 4 produces high-quality results with ease. This printer is a formidable contender in the current race for speed and excellence in printing. Available in two versions - the Neptune 4 and Neptune 4 Pro - this printer is the perfect choice for those seeking top-notch quality and performance.

The Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The printer’s main features are without doubt, the incredible speed in which it prints. Thanks to the most up-to-date, pre-installed, firmware (Klipper) both new printers can print at a ridiculously fast 500mm/s (bear in mind the previous standard Neptune print speed is 60 mm/s). The slimming down of the Neptune's extruder assembly to just 75% of the previous generations weight adds to its nippiness and precision too.

It prints from both data stored on the free USB they generously give you or from LAN (or WiFi with a suitable USB dongle).

The Elegoo Neptune 4 boasts both auxiliary and automatic (11x11) bed levelling controls which means the mesh is far more accurate. The bed is a slightly textured, magnetic 235x235mm, for ease of print release as you can gently bend it (once cooled) to retrieve your latest creation.

What makes the 'Pro', well Pro?

Very quickly, let's clear up the difference between the Neptune 4 and Neptune 4 Pro. It boils down to the following two differences:

Neptune 4 Pro has an 'all metal dual-axis guide rails' and 'double-row ball U-shaped bearing' on the X and Y axis'. The non-pro has POM V-guide rails.
The Neptune Pro has a segmented heated zones (one section at 100w and the other at 150w). This allows for smarter and quicker heating of the print surface in some scenarios. The non-pro has a single 250w heating element below the build plate.

That's it. Well, of course the price is a little different for these upgrades. On Elegoo's own site at the moment it's a $40USD premium for the Pro version. Do you need it? If you'll be running it around the clock or just want the best then go for it - otherwise for the light user it's not a deal breaker in my opinion.

Everything else is the same between the two machines so let's go over some more of the common features...

The abundance of cooling fans, at first, seem to be a little over-kill but as soon as this printer is seen in action these x gantry fans comeinto their own. This Neptune 4 has four additional blowers embedded that create an effective cooling-system that flows across the print, this is alongside the more traditional fans you would expect to find in the extruder head. All very much play an integral role in supporting the speed in which this 3D printer works.

The nozzle reaches a ferocious 300ºC, around 40ºC hotter than previous Neptune models such as the 3, 3 Pro, 3 Plus and the 3 Max meaning that a wider range of additional filaments can be used. The nozzle sits in an extruder head that utilises a tried-and tested dual-geared direct-drive system.

There are LED lights everywhere…well, as a strip on the cross-bar of the frame and as part of the extruder head itself. Both arrangement of lights are a useful addition to help you see the print work, immediately and effortlessly, from the moment it touches the bed.

As with the earlier Elegoo Neptune 3 range the power supply is integrated inside of the base so there is a sleek and pleasing aesthetic without the additional of a lumpy power 'brick'.

In addition to the aforementioned features, there are also those that have become so commonplace that we tend to overlook them. However, for the sake of completeness, I shall enumerate them here:

Power recovery (above 10mm printed height)
Filament run out detection
Automatic bed levelling

Auto 'cool down' when left preheated and idle
Magnetic, removable PEI print sheet
Touchscreen control interface

Let's go into some of these features in more detail:

Print Speed

The printing speed of this remarkable printer is simply astounding, with the ability to produce output at rates ranging from 30mm/s to 500mm/s, although Elegoo recommends a speed of 250mm/s. In practical terms, when I conducted a torture test using the Neptune 4 Pro, it took just half the time it did with the previous Neptune 3 Max to produce the same high-quality print.

It's safe to say that this printer is a real game changer in the industry. To get a more detailed look at the results of the torture test, be sure to check out the latter part of this review.

More LED Lighting

An excellent enhancement to the 2022 Neptune 3 collection was the integration of LED lights. Fortunately, this incredible feature was carried over to the Neptune 4 series.

In addition to the top gantry/frame crossbar's LED light strip, the Neptune 4 now includes lights in the extruder casing alongside the printing nozzle.

This feature is incredibly beneficial, especially when you find yourself working late into the night or simply want to illuminate every move your printer makes.

Connectivity

The main unit features the power switch and kettle lead connections on its left-hand side, while the base unit's front panel hosts the USB-C, USB, and micro-SD card slots. In addition, the Ethernet/LAN port is positioned behind the screen, to the right of the printer.

Although the setup is impressive, a minor drawback is the placement of the Mini SD card slot. It is situated underneath the tensioning dial of the Y axis belt tensioner, which may impede your ability to insert the card accurately without having to look underneath the machine.

For the first time in Elegoo's Neptune range of FDM 3D printers, the machine boasts network connectivity. By virtue of its onboard web server, you can effortlessly link up with it via your local network connection, thereby gaining full control and monitoring capabilities. Additionally, you can remotely access a USB webcam via the web-interface, an exceptional tool for overseeing multiple printers.

Further enhancing its networking prowess, the machine is reportedly compatible with some Linux USB WiFi dongles, which when installed in the USB port, enables seamless connectivity to a WiFi network.

Extruder

Elegoo has ingeniously crafted a dual-geared direct drive extruder system, boasting a 5.2:1 reduction ratio for precise extrusion alongside seamless filament feeding.

The copper-titanium all-metal throat pipe, coupled with a bespoke air duct design, ensures optimal heat dissipation and significantly reduces the chances of nozzle blockages (heat creep).

This groundbreaking system offers a plethora of benefits including the ability to print with various filament types, superior print quality through consistent extrusion control, minimal retraction, and a streamlined extrusion path.

Shipping and Packing

The printer arrived in perfect condition, thanks to the excellent packaging. The printer bed and frame were securely protected by custom cut, high-density foam, ensuring their safety during shipping. Unpacking the contents was hassle-free due to the well-organized layout of the items. Overall, I am extremely satisfied with my purchase. Additionally, Elegoo pleasantly surprised me with an array of tools and accessories, as shown in the accompanying photographs.

This is the main parts of the unpacked components (further down you can see the accessories and other items included)). Although some assembly is required, the contents offer up a pleasing peek at how quick assembly is going to be. (Spoiler Alert: it is extremely simple �� ).

What else is included?

This FDM 3D printer comes fully equipped with a range of accessories to ensure that you have everything you need to get started. It's an ideal choice for first-time users as it includes ample spare parts and all the necessary tools to repair and maintain your new machine. You won't have to worry about purchasing any additional accessories or tools separately, as this printer comes with everything you need to get started right away.

Print removal spatular
Spanners for changing nozzle
Two spare brass nozzles
Acupuncture Needle (to clear blockages)
USB Memory Stick

Screwdrivers (Philips and flat head)
Selection of Allen Keys
Micro SD / TF Card
USB Memory Card Reader
PTFE Tube (Spare)
Printbed fan array

Snips
USB Cable
Sample of PLA Filament
Cable Ties
Bolts for assembly
Network Cable

Assembly

Assembling this printer was a breeze. Elegoo has streamlined the process to make it as effortless as possible. The build plate is already magnetized to the hot bed, while the pre-assembled x gantry is securely attached to the frame, requiring only proper positioning to complete the setup. The hand-held display is merely one connector away from seamlessly integrating with the printer's main assembly.

In essence, the assembly process can be broken down into the following steps:

Attaching the vertical axis to the base, requiring just four bolts.
Connecting the four print bed fans to the rear of the x gantry using three bolts.
Attaching the spool holder and filament run-out sensor at the top.
Affixing the screen bracket and positioning the removable and magnetic screen in its holder.
Making all necessary electrical connections between the base unit and motors, limit switches, fans, and filament sensors.
Connecting the power supply.

Rest assured that these steps are straightforward and easily manageable.

Electronics

On the subject of electronics, each wire for the various motors and sensors has been meticulously placed around the machine, awaiting connection right beside the appropriate component.

To prevent any confusion in the process, each cable is distinctly labelled and features a unique connector size. The instructions were hardly necessary, as the setup was so intuitive that I only needed to double-check for any missed connections.

Instruction manual

The instructions are concise and mostly in a pictorial form, they also are now only supplied digitally on the USB drive. I had no problem consulting them. Elegoo have improved the section on levelling your printer since the Neptune 3 which is great to see. Take a look at the manual yourself if you would like - I have linked to it for your personal perusal.

Elegoo has gone the extra mile by providing a useful video tutorial for the assembly process, conveniently included on the memory stick that comes with your new printer. Much appreciated, Elegoo! ��

First Print

Levelling the Printer Bed

The printer seamlessly measures the height of the print surface across a vast grid of 121 separate points. It then uses this information to calculate a precise mathematical model of the surface which is used while printing to offset any warping of the print bed.

After the automatic routine is complete, you only need to set the layer height of the first layer. Achieving this is a breeze as it only requires you to slide a regular piece of paper back and forth under the nozzle. As you lower it using the touchscreen, you will feel a slight resistance.

The entire process is not only incredibly easy but also precise. No further adjustments were required when making the subsequent test prints.

Loading the Filament

The Elegoo Neptune 4 printers both carry over the Neptune 3's improved filament loading process. It's a case of passing the filament effortlessly though the detector at the top of the gantry, pressing the comfortable lever on the top of the print head before inserting the filament a few cm's and then releasing.

All that is left to do is to heat the nozzle using the touchscreen (Elegoo provides a handy set of presets for common materials) and pressing load.

Printing the included Sample Model

As a part of the package, it is recommended to start with the sample model file included in the memory card along with the PLA filament sample. To begin, select the file from the touchscreen and the printer will start the heating process for the print bed and nozzle. During the print, the display will show useful information such as the remaining print time, an image of the finished print (generated by the slicing software), and the option to make adjustments if necessary during the print process.

Torture Test

A mere print of Elegoo's preselected model would not suffice for a comprehensive review. Naturally, they would have selected a model that falls within the machine's capabilities.

Don't forget to click on any image to open a higher resolution copy to inspect for yourself.

I must say, I am thoroughly impressed with the outcome of the print, especially considering it only took 1 hour and 25 minutes! The print was executed at a 0.28mm layer height with optimal speed, resulting in minimal stringing and superior performance compared to previous Elegoo machines.

I accredit this success to the exceptional airflow provided by the four additional gantry mounted fans, which efficiently cooled the filament. Additionally, all of the cylinders printed for the negative object tolerances were removable, except for the 0.3mm one which required a little wiggle to extract. The bridges remained separate and the overhangs were remarkably clean, even at 45º angles and still fully functional at greater angles tested.

Software

Elegoo have cus tomised a copy of Cura to be used as a Slicer for preparing your prints to be printed. If you're not familiar with Slicing Software then it's the middle stage which takes your computerised 3D models and 'Slices' it into individual layers, usually 0.15mm or 0.2mm in height. Each one of these layers is then prepared as a series of paths for the printer to follow before it raises its print head for the next layer.

The software can have as much an impact on print quality as the hardware itself. They go hand in hand. For example it's the Slicers responsibility to calculate support structures if required and deal with the acceleration and deceleration of the print head in order to balance the need for a desirable print speed without introducing print artefacts into the finished model.

The version of customised Cura included on the memory card of my test machine was 4.8. Cura is currently on version 5.3.1 and as such it prompted me to update. I obliged only to realise that the latest version of Cura did not contain the printer profiles for many of Elegoos latest printers including the Neptune 4 or Neptune 4 Pro.

Perhaps they will include it in the future? This means that, for now, we cannot benefit from the latest slicing software beyond version 4.8, which is a limitation for those looking to maximise their print quality. The importance of having up-to-date software cannot be overstated, particularly in the ever-evolving world of 3D printing. It is crucial to stay on top of the latest software updates and printer profiles to ensure that you are getting the most out of your hardware.

Final Thoughts

I would recommend this printer as it is affordable, high-quality and fast.

After BambuLabs released their speed behemoth onto the 3D printing world, companies have been aching to catch up. As a reasonably priced 3D printer for hobbyist to 3D Print farm enthusiast, Elegoo Neptune 4 puts its stamp on the market.

So what do I think of the new Elegoo Neptune 4 and Neptune 4 Pro? They look sleek, just as good if not better than the Neptune 3 Pro. And like the Neptune 3 Pro, they've ditched the Bowden tube and added an extra stepper motor to the frame, plus the power supply is built right into the base.

But it's not just about looks, these printers have some serious power. With four new additional fans, printing is significantly faster and the quality is better than ever. Just be warned, they can be a bit loud! In my testing, they averaged 63dB from about 50cm (59.6dB with the new fans disabled).

The best part? These printers are super user-friendly. Changing the filament, clearing the print bed, and starting a new print are all a breeze. And with the continued ability to change nozzles and a large touchscreen interface, you have complete control.

And let's talk about Elegoo's integration of Klipper. It's seriously impressive! Plus, with the new networking abilities and remote monitoring, managing your printer(s) has never been easier.

Where to buy:

Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 4 Printers
3D Jake (they usually have stock): Elegoo Neptune 4 -or- Neptune 4 Pro

Bluetooth Speaker with a SURPRISING trick!

Mon, 19 Jun 2023 14:07:19 GMT

3D Print your own moduler Bluetooth Speaker with cool disco lighting and modular speaker design

At its core is the main speaker - everything is contained in the main box including the Lithium Ion batteries, recharging circuit, bluetooth receiver and amp. You'll also find both a standard USB and USB C port to re-charge your other devices.

This is where it gets cool though: Assemble the second 'slave' speaker for a louder system and it’s connected as simply as sitting it on-top. Magnets hold it in place and the Pogo pins form the electrical connection!

Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/503655

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

Kit of electronic parts: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1492616468/

BMS 3S 60A: https://geni.us/BMC-3S-60A
CC/CV Buck Converter XL4015 (x1): https://geni.us/XL4015-CC-CV
Pogo Pins (2mm spring head & 5.5mm shaft length) (x2): https://geni.us/PogoPins75-55
3 Cell 18650 Battery Holder (x1): https://geni.us/3s-18650-Holder
Quality 18650 Lithium Ion Batteries from a reputable source (x3)
Bluetooth Amp: https://geni.us/Bluetooth-AMP
Voltmeter / USB PSU (x1): https://geni.us/Voltmeter-with-USB
DC Barrel Connector (x1): https://geni.us/HighAmpDCBarrel
Power Switch (x1): https://geni.us/Power-Switch
4” Full Range Speakers - They don’t have to be yellow! :) (x1 or 2): https://geni.us/4-Inch-Speakers
Power supply:
Magnets (12x3mm): https://geni.us/12x3mmMagnets
Filament: https://www.3djake.uk
PCB: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/3D_Printable_Modular_Bluetooth_Speaker_System_3df5b9d9.html
Disco Light (optional): https://geni.us/USB-Disco-Light

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:

Bolts (M4x5mm): https://geni.us/M4-Bolts

Wiring Diagram:

FAQ / Support

Discord sever for project: https://discord.gg/JZmuW73gN5

Comments

Upcylced Filament Spool Lamp - ESP32, Alexa, MQTT, Hue & Sound Reactivity

Tue, 11 Apr 2023 13:56:54 GMT

How to build your own Filament Spool Smart Lamp

Over time I have collected a few empty spools which for some reason always seemed to good to just let the local council recycle them. Now it’s time to make something with them.

A filament spool lamp is not a new idea, but I wanted to add some additional features using the ESP32 tucked away inside the base which allows for some cool sound synced shiny shows or MQTT, Hue and Alexa integrations.

Naturally, this can be controlled from any device via wifi using WLEDs web interface or several free apps found on the app stores. Though sometimes it’s easier and quicker to physically adjust a lamp so I’ve integrated a discrete dimmer control right into the top of the project which allows you to easily adjust the brightness or switch the lamp off whilst a hidden button on the underside lets you change between your preferred lighting patterns with a simple click, whilst a longer hold switches over to sound sensitive party performance mode.

I used broom handles for legs which makes this very affordable, and everything else is 3D printed.

I’ll also show you three ways of dealing with the power cable, leave it free hanging, 3D print some wire clips or recessed inside one of the legs.

Now you may be thinking correctly that filament spools come in all shapes and sizes. So to accommodate this I have designed and freely published a parametric model which you can download (linked below) - you then simply enter these values into a table and the model will adjust and produce the parts you need to print for your own lamp.

Full details for adjusting this model in the free version of Fusion 360 are available further down the page. ��

Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/@DIYMachines/models

WLED Code for project (use Chrome web browser for the best experience): https://install.wled.me/

Customisable Fusion 360 Project File & Pre configured WLED file:

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

Kit of electronic parts: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1444900974

ESP32 Dev Board (x1): https://geni.us/ESP32
INMP44 Microphone (x1): https://geni.us/INMP441
WS2811 12v LEDs: https://geni.us/WS2811-60
DC to DC Buck converter (Mini 360 - x1): https://geni.us/Mini360
Potentiometer 5k (x1): https://geni.us/Potentiometers
1k Resistor (x1): https://geni.us/Ufa2s
Tactile Button 12mm high (x1): https://geni.us/12mmTallTactile
Logic Level Shifter (74AHCT125): https://geni.us/74AHCT125-LLS
Barrel connector suitable for at least 5amps https://geni.us/HighAmpDCBarrel
Wooden Rods / Broom Handles: https://geni.us/WoodenBroomHandle
3D Printer Filament: https://www.3djake.uk

12v Power Supply (allow 0.7amps at least for every 10 LEDs) :

(6 amp+): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply6A
(2 amp): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply2A

Projects PCB: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Filament_Spool_Smart_Lamp_Hue_MQTT_Alexa_Sound_Reactivity_ESP32_Fusion_a26b7125.html

or optionally

PermaProto Board: https://geni.us/HalfPermaProto
Wago Connectors for power lines: https://geni.us/Wago2

You can order a kit of the electronics, screws and pcb on my international Etsy store: Spool Lamp Kit

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:

M3 x 8mm (x3) (for a attaching PCB)

Wiring Diagram:

Modifying the Fusion 360 File to suite your Filament Spool Size

You will need. copy of Fusion 360 to be able to edit the model for this project. If you already have it, great. If not, you can download a free version for personal use here: https://www.autodesk.co.uk/products/fusion-360/personal

After you have access to Fusion 360 sorted we can go ahead and download the project file for the lamp using the link here :

Once you have downloaded the project file we will need to upload it to Fusion. This is simply a case of choosing 'File' -> 'Upload' from the main menu

Locate the project file you dowloaded and choose a location in Fusion 360 to save the upload. When the upload process has completed we can go ahead and open the file to begin some super simple editing.

At the top of the menu bar is a button which opens a table for editing parameters - it looks like an italic 'fx'. Pressing this will reveal the table of parametric values.

In this table you can update the value under the column titled 'Expression'. As you update the values you will see the model updating itself to reflect the changes. (All values can be updated but I would not adjust 'AngleOfLegs' or 'DistanceLegsFromEdgeOfBase' unless you are confident in updating features and sketches in the timeline of the model as these are most likely to 'break' the design intent of the model.)

For reference these are the values which can be measured from the spool you are utilising:

After you have finished updating the dimension in the table you can export individual parts from the model as STL's and then take these to your slicer of choice to prepare for 3D printing. The easiest way to do this is to click on the part / body you wish to export. Then in the hierarchy on the side you will see a squiggle (1) showing you where the part you have selected reads, expand the tree until you find the part nested inside the 'Bodies' folder'. You can then right click the part (2) in the hierarchy and choose to 'Save as Mesh' (3).

As a reminder, the only part that requires support to be enjambed is the 'Lamp Base' (the part which the legs connect to and in which the electronic circuits reside).

Integrating with Amazon Alexa

The Smart Lamp project can be integrated with Amazon's Alexa voice assistant service to allow you to control the colour, brightness and toggle the panels on and off with your voice. This option also allows you to further integrate it into other services such as IFTT's routines. It is very easy to add:

Integrating with Philips Hue

Integration with Philips Hue's smart lighting system is a little more involved than the Alexa integration shown above. To integrate with Hue we will have the project poll the Hue Bridge regularly and ask it about the status of one of your existing lights. The Geoleaf project will then try to replicate the settings of this build as closely as it can. For example, my Geoleaf panels are in my office and I have t follow the brightness of my ceiling light bulb. This way it switches on and off when I enter and leaf my home office space.

Here is some documentation provided on the official Wiki for WLED: https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki/Philips-hue-sync

and here is some documentation from Philips Hue on interacting with your Hue bridge to find bulb IDs which you need to enter int the WLED app: https://developers.meethue.com/develop/get-started-2/ . Both of these resources might help you with this integration but here is a super concise run through of what is required:

Find the IP address of your Hue bridge by either clicking here (if you're on the same network at the moment) or by opening the Hue app, go to the settings menu, go to Hue Bridges, select your bridge and note its IP address.
In a web browser navigate to: https://<bridge ip address>/debug/clip.html (ensuring you substitute your IP address). This will open the 'CLIP API Debugger' of your Hue Bridge.
To be able to ask for more sensitive information about your Hue system you need to ask for a username to prove who we are. Do this by entering the following into the fields of the API Debugger:
URL = /api
Message Body = {"devicetype":"my_hue_app#geoleaf"}
And then press the 'POST' button. This should return an error saying 'link button not pressed'. This is a security step to ensure you should be allowed access to your Hue data. Press the physical button on top of your Hue Bridge and then press 'POST' again.
This time it will generate unique username for you. Note this down - it will be a long string of letters and numbers.
This time enter the following information into the fields:
URL = /api/YOUR-UNIQUE-USERNAME
And press the 'GET' button. This will return all the information about your Hue system.
This information can then be copied from the results and pasted into a JSON viewer such as http://jsonviewer.stack.hu . From here you can find the bulb you would like to mimic, take note of its ID and enter this into WLED.

FAQ / Support

Discord sever for project: https://discord.gg/XveRaSxamG

Comments

Elegoo Neptune 3 Max Review

lewis@diymachines.co.uk (Lewis Aburrow) — Tue, 07 Feb 2023 09:30:51 GMT

Elegoo Neptune 3 Max

The largest of the three available sizes in the third generation of Elegoo Neptune range of FDM printers, the Neptune 3 Max really does deliver on very large build volume whilst maintaining the core design, features, and reliability of the Neptune range.

Pros:

Direct extrusion
Large, clear and simple controls
New integrated LED lighting
Power Outage Recovery
420 x 420 x 500mm build volume

Cons:

A very large machine for most desktops
Front mounted USB port

Where to buy:

Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
3D Jake (they have great stock levels): Elegoo Neptune 3 Max

What is it?

Elegoo's Neptune 3 Max is the largest version of the Neptune 3 Pro FDM 3D printer. There are two smaller versions of this printer - both of which have reviews if you're interested. They are the Neptune 3 Pro (the smallest) and the Neptune 3 Plus . I will write this as an independent review of the other machines, and where appropriate contra st where it defers from its two smaller siblings.

What is an FDM printer?

First up a brief description of a what a FDM printer actually is. FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling) printers have been found in domestic homes far longer than other 3D printing technologies such as resin based MSLA (Masked StereoLithogrAphy). As such their price continues to become more affordable and the technology is proven, refined and easy to work with. I cut my teeth on 3D printing with an FDM printer and mostly use them to this day.

They work by 'slicing' the 3D computer model into thin horizontal slices, usually about 0.15 to 0.2mm high. Each slice is then extruded in molten plastic by the print head which draws one of these 2D slices onto the build platform before raising the nozzle height and proceeding with the next slice. As layer upon layer is laid down on top of the previous layer a 3D object is created. Voila.

The Technical Overview

The printers main selling point is its truly massive build volume. Boasting 420 x 420 x 500 it provides a massive 88,200cm³ of printing room. This more than 215% the Plus sizes 320x320x400mm volume and a staggering 549% the size of the Neptune 3 Pro's build volume of 16,065cm³ (its build volume measures 225 x 255 x280mm). A volume this size allow you to print truly large items as a single print, or many more smaller items without having to revisit your machine between prints.

The print bed , as so many are now, is both removable and magnetic. To detach a print, just wait for it to cool then bend the plate slightly - your print will pop right off. The surface is lightly textured which helps conceal the initial layers print lines.

The power supply is integrated inside of the base so no need to accommodate a bulky brick somewhere. Something new on this Max sized machine is the addition of a handy drawer built into its base. A very welcome addition and great place to store tools.

Print Volume

I couldn't mention the print volume without coming back to show you a couple of images to appreciate just how large it can print.

I'll tell you more about this specific print later in the review - but I wanted you to see the image now. To provide some scale I added a standard bottle of Pepsi (I was also thirsty so it had a dual purpose).

Integrated LED Lighting

One of the new features across the Neptune 3 line of printers is the integrated LED lights. These are found nestled inside the top gantry. I thought they would be gimmicky - when in fact I'm finding them very useful for illuminating the machine whilst preparing and actually printing the models.

When I find myself using one of my other printers without this feature I am reminded just how much the LEDs help when working in the vicinity of the machine.

Connectivity

The power switch and kettle lead connections are mounted on the right side towards the rear of the machine. The USB and memory card slot is mounted on the front of the machine. I personally think that this a great spot for the memory card slot but I prefer the USB port on the side and failing that the rear. This is because I think it is less prone to damage when the machine is connected to a computer for direct printing. I often set-up a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint to manage my printers and this connects to your printer via USB.

Extruder

The Neptune 3 series of Elegoo printer all the utilise the same direct drive extrusion system. This is my preferred method of extrusion over the use of a Bowden Tube .

Pros:

Increased ability to print with flexible filaments.
Better print quality through constant extrusion control.
Faster retraction.
Simpler extrusion path.

Cons:

Reduced print speeds because of slightly heavier print head.
More elaborate print head design required.

Unlike most Direct Drive setups though. Elegoo have kept the filament sensor attached to the frame of the machine instead of the print head.

Having used the same sensor setup on the Neptune 3 Pro for a little while I now prefer this for several reasons; it reduces complexity of the print head, provides the system with earlier warning of filament run-out, and holds the filament strand whilst unloading/loading the print head preventing it from quickly knotting your spool of nicely pre-wound filament if you inadvertently let the end of the spool go.

The printer features auto-levelling to compensate for any undulations in the print surface. The printer takes no less than 63 readings across the entire print surface to create a digital map of the surface which it then uses to adjust the printing height as it moves around the platform. Should the compensation required be too drastic there are large knobs placed on the underside of the platform in six locations. (Three along each side). This will allow you to manually remove most of the unevenness before the printer then re-runs its levelling procedure to make final adjustments automatically.

Power Recovery

The power outage recovery feature is now becoming common place on any printers. This is certainly welcome on a machine with such a large print volume as it's likely to need to print for days when printing the largest of items. It would be a disaster if a power cut ruined a multiple-day print towards the end.

The power recovery feature will detect power interruptions and offer to re-heat the bed and nozzle before resuming where it was before the power failed. The main drawback of this feature is that it only work when at least 10mm of the print has already been completed - I assume this helps ensure the print it continues with is unlikely to have warped whilst cooling. However, you are still at the mercy of whether the print detached itself from the print bed as the surface cooled - which is what it is designed to do in normal circumstances.

Integrated Drawer

This is exclusive to the Neptune 3 Max - probably because of the large amount of space available in the base of the machine. The pull out drawer can fit all the tools I use day to day and for 98% of maintenance tasks in the future. It's not deep enough to house the glue stick but I have never used those with my 3D printer anyway.

Shipping and Packing

The FDM 3D printer arrived well packed. Plenty of foam defends the contents from any knocks during transit. The main parts of the printer are split between two layers. The box is large given the nature of the printer, measuring 70 x 85 x 29cm.

As you can see, this 'kit' comes very nearly entirely assembled. There are only a few parts which are involved in the set-up as you'll see later in the review.

What else is included?

As with all the Elegoo 3D partners I've reviewed, there are plenty of accessories included. More than enough to kit you out if this is your first FDM 3D printer, plenty of spare parts and all the tools you would need to repair and maintain your new machine. The parts list is almost identical to the Neptune 3 Pro with the exception of additional bolts to assemble the vertical braces.

Print removal spatular
Spanners for changing nozzle
Two spare brass nozzles
Acupuncture Needle (to clear blockages)

Screwdrivers (Philips and flat head)
Selection of Allen Keys
Micro SD / TF Card
USB Memory Card Reader
PTFE Tube (Spare)

Flush Snips / Cutters
USB Cable
Sample of PLA Filament
Cable Ties
Bolts for assembly

Assembly

This is genuinely so simple it's almost difficult to write about. Essentially the printer arrives in two major halves; the base and the vertical frame. The vertical frame and base are bolted together with four bolts (two each side). This is best done on the machines left side. You can then right the printer and attach the control screen (one cable) and it's mount (three bolts). The spool holder and filament sensor are attached with just three more bolts at the top.

As this machine is so tall it includes two bracing rods which run from the back of the machine to the top. Again, four bolts and a couple of washer and they're installed in just seconds.

Electronics

All the wiring for the various motors and sensors have already been thoughtfully routed around the machine and present themselves ready for connection alongside the correct component.

To help ensure the correct cable goes to the correct part each one is labelled and uniquely sized connectors are used. I didn't need to consult the instructions save for ensuring I had not overlooked any. I mean it's almost impossible to make a mistake.

Footprint

Let's talk about size again. If you have bought this printer or are considering it then I'm sure you're aware Elegoo didn't call it the 'Max' for no reason. The footprint of the machine where it sits on our work surface measures approximately 64cm deep and 63cm wide (including the touchscreen controller).

However, during use and when printing large object s , the print bed travels beyond its footprint boundary so that realistically you need total clear depth of 90cm. This could be overhanging your worktop at the front by 11 cm and the rear by 15cm to allow for the overextension of the print bed and its power supply cable for the heating elements.

This is no fault of the machine, I just want you to be fully aware of the space required to accommodate the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max.

Instruction manual

The instructions are short and concise, relying on mainly images like an Ikea instruction manual. Processes requiring more detail are explained using a combination of images and words, such as the levelling process. I've included the manual for you to download and look at for yourself if you wanted to.

Elegoo have also included a handy video guide of the assembly procedure which you will find saved on the memory stick included with your new printer. Thanks Elegoo. ��

First Print

Levelling the Bed

The printer automatically measures the height of the print surface across a grid of 49 unique points and uses this information to calculate a mathematical model it refers to whilst printing to compensate for any warping of the print bed.

Once this automatic routine has completed you need only to set the layer height of the first layer. This simply requires you to continuously slide a piece of common paper back and fourth under the nozzle whilst lowering it with the touchscreen until you feel some slight resistance.

This process was incredibly easy and proved accurate as no further tweaks were required when making the proceeding test prints.

The instructions for levelling the print bed have improved since the Neptune 3 Pro (the smallest of the three machines) - something I called to attention when reviewing the Pro iteration. It shows Elegoo listen and act upon feedback to ensure their development inches closer towards both a fantastic printer and set-up experience.

Loading the Filament

This a process improved since the earlier Neptune 2 iteration of machines. It has become a simple case of passing the filament effortlessly though the detector at the top of the gantry, pressing the comfortable lever on the top of the print head before inserting the filament a few cm's and then releasing.

All that is left to do is to heat the nozzle using the touchscreen (Elegoo provides a handy set of presets for common materials) and pressing load. Done.

Printing the included Sample Model

I always start by printing any bundled models using any bundled filament for the printers first print. It seems fair to use it in its best light.

The Buddha is their chosen test print and as usual I can gladly say that I can't see any glaring issues with the print quality. No surprise there of course. However, printing a model Elegoo have pre-selected and using their supplied filament does not provide ample opportunity to stress the machine. And in this case it certainly doesn't demonstrate the printers ability to create large items!

Printing gets much bigger

Before this printer, the largest thing I had ever printed was a vase on the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus. (The white one in the images below). To really see just how big I could go I chose another vase, but this time with a geometric pattern.

It measures 21.8cm in width and 36cm in height - it printed first time without hiccups. After the print bed had cooled it was removable from the print bed with a slow pull.

Total time to print was around 37.5 hours and I used 3D Jakes Ultra-satin Gold PLA filament. The image can be clicked on and enlarged to allow for much closer inspection should you wish.

Torture Test

A torture test is designed to stretch the printers ability for several different feature types.

I will print the same one created by AutoDesk and Kickstarter I use on all FDM printers which I review. This allows us to push the limits of the machine such as overhang, bridging, and retraction abilities. It also allows for a fair and convenient comparison.

I have used PrusaSlicer 2.5.1 to prepare the G-code.

Don't forget to click on any image to open a higher resolution copy to inspect for yourself.

Software

Final Thoughts

I would recommend this printer if you're looking for a very large format FDM printer at a very reasonable price point.

The print size is huge! You don't need to print large prints every time but having the ability to when suitable is very nice. The only two downsides for choosing this machine over the other smaller siblings and using it to print smaller objects is the requirement for more space on your worktop and needing to heat a larger print bed.

So perhaps, if you have the space, it makes sense to go for the larger model and keep you available build volume as big as possible. The addition of the drawer (only on the Max) is very handy - it's simple but super convenient. I would have liked to have seen the ability to attach a larger filament spool to the machine. I have some 2.2kg rolls of filament and when printing models as large as the Elegoo Neptune 3 Max FMD 3D printer allows you're likely to get through much more filament.

The machine itself looks smart. And as for Elegoo themselves, I recently had a problem with a resin printer of theirs and their support representatives where extremely helpful and promptly solved my problem (they sent a new motherboard and some resin for the inconvenience) so I have no issues with the brand.

The Neptune 3 series of machines from Elegoo are solid contenders for the more affordable 3D printing market. And unlike some others budget brands, don't require a slew of upgrades after purchase to ensure good quality prints and ease of use. Something that distorts the value of other printers.

Where to buy:

Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 3 Max
Elegoo direct: Neptune 3 Max

Snapmaker Artisan 3-in-1 Review

Wed, 28 Dec 2022 20:19:30 GMT

Snapmaker Artisan 3-in-1

A rock solid desktop fabricator with a dual extruding 3D printer module, beefed up CNC router, and 10w laser engraver/cutter all within the confines of a single machines footprint.

Pros:

Very sturdy construction with quicker tool changes
Larger build volume than previous model
All tool head modules and platforms upgraded
Everything including sample materials, tools and software included

Cons:

It's a large machine so ensure you have the space
As with the previous version of Luban, at the time of writing there are small but annoying software problems which lets down the excellent hardware

Where to buy:

Snapmaker direct: snapmaker.sjv.io/zxLoyr

What is it?

The Snapmaker Artisan is arguably the third major incarnation of the Snapmaker series of multi functional desktop machines. The original Snapmaker started as a Kickstarter campaign back in 2017 and was quickly backed by more than 5,000 people. Five years later they created the Snapmaker 2.0 and then now, at the beginning of 2023, they have released the Snapmaker Artisan. I've been testing one for two weeks now and am lucky enough to also have the Snapmaker 2.0 A350 to compare it to.

It's clear that Snapmaker have listened to feedback from users of previous generation machines and although the Snapmaker 2.0 was by no means a problematic machine they have made numerous updates and improvements which have resulted in an even better experience than before. Throughout this review I'll cover these improvements from the viewpoint of a new user and from someone considering a possible upgrade from an earlier machine.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The build volume of the Artisan is 400 x 400 x 400mm which is certainly on the larger side. In comparison the A350 achieved 320 x 330 x 350mm. I'm looking forward to running some larger prints of this machine.

The 3D printing module now includes two extruders enabling dual coloured prints and the ability to use separate materials (such as water soluble supports).

The included 10w laser module (see my dedicated 10W laser module review) includes a camera to aid alignment of artwork and is also used to automatically detect the thickness of materials.

The other major improvement is the CNC routing module which has increased from a 50w motor to 200w allowing for more aggressive machining of tougher materials.

All this is controlled from a revised 7" touchscreen controller with integrated emergency stop button as standard. The safety enclosure is also now included as standard. A must for the LASER function in my opinion - well done Snapmaker for making this decision.

Shipping and Packing

This is a large machine which means the packaging is even larger. In fact, it's split over two very large and heavy packages (one of them is nearly 50kg!). The contents of both are well padded, packed, and extraordinarily well sorted. Inside these boxes the items are further grouped and labelled so you know what you'll need and when as you'll see in the section on assembly.

The exterior of one of my shipping boxes showed some puncture and compression damage sustained on its journey to me. However, the dense foam packing had completely protected the contents which appeared indifferent to the fact it had all journeyed from China to England via who knows how many handlers who probably resented the boxes weighty contents.

What else is included?

All the tools for assembling and maintaining your machine in the long run are included. With the new Artisan they have provided a very well organised toolbox which presents the tools well whilst encouraging you to keep your tools well organised for the foreseeable future. Gone is the custom designed multi tipped screwdriver of the A350 in favour for standard Allen keys. At first I was a little saddened by this but then realised that the new colour coding of the Allen keys made for much quicker assembly.

Clear CNC Safety Glasses
Break away Filament
PLA Filment
Calibration card
Printed setup and user manual
ER11 Collet & Nut
Cotten swabs

Hex Keys (x4)
Open Wrench 17mm & 14mm
Palette Knife
Diagonal Pliers
USB Flash Drive
Spare Laser Lens Protector
Hose clamp and Hose for venting

Straight Grove V CNC Bit
Flat End Mill Single-flute CNC Bit
Flat End Mill Double-flute CNC Bit
Tweezers
Wire Brush
Parts to fix materials to work platforms
Tool box to store your, well, tools ��

You will also find a selection of sample materials to get you going immediately with each of the Snapmaker's three unique functions. Some Basswood for the laser module, HDF (High Density Fibreboard) for the CNC routing module, and two types of filament for the 3D printing module. Each of the sample project provided in the Quick Start Guide use these materials.

One small detail which makes the unpacking and assembly process just that it easier are the paper pull tabs used to open the boxes. This level of thought sets the tone for the rest of the build process.

Assembly

This is a large machine and you may be hesitant about assembling it... don't be. (But definitely do assemble it as close to where it is going to reside as possible!) The instruction manual is truly excellent. The written instructions are clear and concise. I made one single error in assembly which was easily rectified when I realised later. A second inspection of the instructions revealed it was my error as well (probably got distracted by a fresh supply of tea and biscuits being handed to me!).

So how much space will you need to keep your assembled Snapmaker? The enclosure and machine itself measures 67cm's wide, 93cm's deep and 71cm's tall. I would allow for an additional 25cm of width on both sides to be able to add the spool holders for 3D printing (one is positioned on each side when using two filaments in the same print) and this also allows for the Integrated Control Centre (ICC) to sit beside the enclosure. Snapmaker points out, and I agree, that the ICC is best situated on the right hand side of the machine so that you can still reach its controls when the door of the enclosure is open.

One of my main complaints in regards the the A350 model was its jumble of wires which needed wrestling to appear tidy and cared for. The wiring really felt like an afterthought or something that had been entirely forgotten. Thankfully, this has improved with the newer Snapmaker Artisan. The wiring is held in clear thought out channels. The wires that need to have a certain amount of slack in them (to allow for the movement of the machine) have bright yellow strips marking where they should be inserted into clips/clamps so you know that you don't have neither too much or too little slack where it matters.

After the machines main skeleton and enclosure have been assembled you will need to attach the correct working platform and tool head depending on the function you wish to use.

For the toolhead on previous incarnations this required releasing and re-fitting four bolts on the rear of the toolhead which could be tricky to access depending on whether or not you could open your enclosure at the side. With the new Snapmaker? Just pull open the lever on top, slide one module out and the other in before closing the same lever. A massive improvement in speed and convenience.

Same is true of the work platform - in fact the improvement is greater here. The same single lever design is utilised, but for some functions this saves having to remove twelve bolts (for the routing workbed) and then installing roughly the same amount for the function you're switching to. If this was 3D printing then you would need to use different bolts to fix it to the Snapmaker. All of this hassle is now gone. Well done again Snapmaker. If a previous generation Snapmaker user asked if it's worth the upgrade I would say if you're switching functions often then this is a major upgrade not to be missed.

Instruction manual

The instructions are just superb. SU-PERB. ��

Clear, concise, well spaced out, and perfectly tied up with what box and bag the parts you need for each step will be found in. It's a large user guide that takes the time and space it needs to be as helpful as it can.

And when it comes to powering on and setting up the machine and its functions you'll find that the instruction manually is perfectly complemented by the step by step instructions shown on the new 7" touchscreen on the control centre. This is made smarter by the fact the controls and 'wizards' presented on the display depend on the modules that it detects.

I've included a sample step here for you to see as an example and you can also download the entire instruction manual using the button below.

The 10W Laser module

I'm currently testing the Laser Module in combination with the Snapmaker Artisan and can so far draw your attention to the increased work size of 400mm x 400mm and the revised (and much improved) system for fixing your material to the workbed. You can find my full dedicated review of the 10w Laser module here . (Spoiler.... I loved it!)

The previous model used some rubber 'T' shaped bungs which you pushed between smooth metal tracks. It worked for the most part but was often fiddly to insert (the rubber would bend the wrong way when you tried to push it into the tracks). Otherwise the friction in between the tracks was not enough to hold the work piece down if it has slight warp to its surface.

The revised design features a rigid plastic 'lever' which is fixed to the platform using two plastic screws which actually screw into ribbed tracks. The holding power of this is far greater whilst also making it easier to the slide the fixings along the length of the track as apposed to removing and replacing them entirely when changing materials.

As my tests with the Laser Module continue I will add an updates to this review.

The Upgraded 200w CNC Carving & Cutting Module

CNC Overview

I'll start by admitting that the CNC function was something I did not use as often as I thought I would have on the previous Snapmaker. This is mostly due to the long work times required to complete a job and I never wanted to leave the machine running without me at least being in the same building. However, Snapmaker have focused on improving the robustness and speed of this module significantly.

The updated tool head sports the same standard ER11 collet (the part which grips the drill/router bits) as before which makes purchasing additional bits super easy and inexpensive. If you're like me then it is likely that a few bits will be broken as you get to know your machine. Being able to source them on Amazon prime from just a few pounds each is a relief. It also means you have access to huge variety of bits depending on your needs. Single/ double flutes, up-cut or down cut, flat heads etc. The list goes on and the opportunity to really explore the CNC modules ability and achieve what you want is rabbit hole you could dive deep into.

According to Snapmaker's presets this difference allows you to machine Beech wood at twice the depth for each step/pass (2mm instead of 1mm) and move through the material at 3000mm/min instead 1000mm/min. In theory this would allow you to remove the same amount of Beech material 6X faster with this updated CNC module - which now comes as standard with the Snapmaker Artisan! I don't know about you, but having a theoretical 6 hour job reduced to just 1 hour is a major improvement.

There is a large list of materials which you can cut or carve using the Snapmaker CNC module, both soft and hard. You'll be able to work with woods (such as Walnut, Birch, Oak etc), PCBs, Acrylic Sheets, POM (a plastic engineered to have great qualities for machining), carbon fibre sheets and more.

The motor power has increased 4X from 50w to 200w allowing for the aforementioned more aggressive tool paths without the spindle speed reducing so quickly as the previous model. The maximum speed achievable has also been increased from 12,000 RPM to 18,000 RPM.

Preparing to CNC Machine

The system for clamping down material is largely untouched as it did work well on the previous model. It consists of a bolt and two pieces of aluminium - these are bolted into one of the numerous bolt holes on the CNC carving platform and used to pin down the material by tightening a thumb screw. I like that no tools are required to do this.

The wooden platform is deemed as being a sacrificial board. By this they mean that in order to cut all the way through any material you are using, the drill bit will also cut away an amount of the work platform itself. This is likely to be less than a mm at most (depending on the cutting program you created) and it won't impact its ability to function as a level work platform for a very long time. Ultimately it will need replacing - Snapmaker and its resellers around the world keep it in stock. And if you were so inclined, you could make your own. There is nothing secret or difficult about its construction.

Installing the work bit into the ER11 collect does require both of the included open ended spanners. You simply insert the work bit into the end of the collet, hand-tighten whilst ensuring the bit is nestled in vertically in the centre of the collet before tightening the collets grip firmly using the two spanner. One on the silver shaft and the second on the black collar.

Making the sample CNC machining project

The first stage of any CNC carving or cutting wok flow is setting the work origin. This is a couple of steps which lets the Snapmaker know where the surface of your material is and the correct starting point the program should begin from. This is required as your positioning of the material on the platform is highly unlikely to be where the machine is expecting to encounter it.

To begin with you use the onscreen control to lower the CNC modules work bit closer to the material but high enough that it cannot collide with any of the clamps if the CNC module was to move around above the platform. You can then press 'Run Boundary' on the display. The machine will the move its axis to mark the greatest extent / boundary of its working area for your selected program. As long as it is clear of the clamps and any other obstruction you can lower the work bit further. This time you keep going whilst sliding a piece of paper around between the work bit and top surface of your material. When the paper encounters friction you can save this height.

That's it, the machine can then begin the CNC program. If anything goes wrong whilst preparing the machine or during the program itself then you should immediately use the emergency stop button located on top of the Integrated Controller.

This process is loud. Significantly louder than the Laser or 3D printing modules. Thankfully the enclosure dampens a lot of the noise but when you're spinning a high speed work bit whilst dragging it through hard materials as it cuts loud noises are going to be unavoidable. Despite the updated Artisans ability to work more aggressively I have also found that everything still seems more rigid than the A350T.

The sample project used a sheet of HDF to cut a series of interlocking shapes. These (after some puzzling) fit together to make very pleasing tolerances. Check out the images below.

The above project was designed and exported from Snapmaker's own free Luban software which is specifically designed for their machines. I'll be going over Luban later on in the review. If you like to work with Fusion 360 I also wanted to mention that Snapmaker have created a detailed and easy to follow video guide on how to create machining files from within Fusion 360. You can see it here for yourself.

As you can see in the first image, the cross shaped circular stand for the sample model cut itself too deep and its tabs were not strong enough to keep it connected to the work piece. It came loose and started throwing itself around the drill bit at high speed. I immediately hit the big red emergency button and the machine promptly stopped the tool head. I was able to then resolve the issue (I removed the loose workpiece) and then was able to reset the safety stop and the Snapmaker was able to continue with the rest of the program. No big drama and great opportunity to test the Emergency Stop button. This is now integrated in the top of the Controller. On previous models it was an optional extra (and not a cheap one either in my opinion).

The New Dual Extrusion 3D Printing Module

3D Printing is my speciality so I will be more critical here. My benchmark is a Prusa i3 Mk3s. A machine I use often and a popular contender in the mid priced 3D printing market. Well the very first obvious win for the Snapmaker Artisan 3-in-1 is its dual nozzled extruder setup. This allows it two print more than one filament in a single job without human intervention. and as each one uses a separate nozzle we can use different materials (such as soluble supports) that require different temperatures. The nozzles are also extremely simple to swap out (this takes a little work and some tools on my Prusa) and perhaps in a future software version of Luban you'll be able to use to different nozzle diameters?

For comparison you can see that the upgraded module of the Artisan is rather different to its predecessor.

You can instantly observe the twin nozzle design along with substantially enlarged air inlets for effective cooling of the heatbreak and the print itself.

Both filament are mounted externally either side of the enclosure and fed in to the top of the module via a pair of easily reconnect-able Bowden tubes .

With the bed and toolhead installed I powered on the Snapmaker which automatically recognised I had prepared the machine to do some 3D printing. The onscreen wizard then guided me through loading each roll of the included sample filament. I struggled a little to load the filament into the left nozzle, but the right nozzle went without a hitch.

Once the filament is loaded you will to need to run through the calibration process to ensure good alignment of the two separate nozzles. This involves the machine printing two calibration models, one for the X axis and one for the Y.

Once this is done you let the machine know which of the markings had the most centred pair of printed lines. The machine will then go ahead and test these setting you just entered by printing one more model - some intersecting squares.

As with most 3D printers on the market today the Snapmaker contains the hardware and software needed for it to automatically probe the surface of the print bed at pre-determined points and calculate and then compensate for any undulations in the print surface.

It is also worth me mentioning that the print bed has two different usable surfaces - one on each side. One of which is a textured PEI coated surface. This is ideal for most materials. It aids adhesion whilst also helping to mask the pattern of the first layer on the underside of your project. The second side of our printing surface is a glossy glass surface which is more suitable for sticky filaments such as TPU and flexible ones.

I followed the user guides instructions to print the sample model. A spring like pencil pot with overhangs so severe you cannot print it without supports - step in the break away support filament and Artisans second nozzle. ��

This is my first time using a dual nozzled printer. The set up was easier then expected and naturally the print time was increased due to the nozzles need to spend some time making use of the purge tower (which also consumes additional filament). Of course you can use this as a single nozzle printer and with the option to use two nozzles available at any time.

The print bed is also dual-zoned. A small central section and a larger outer perimeter zone. This means you need only heat the centre section for smaller prints. This provides the opportunity to heat it quicker, to higher temperature and save energy. The enclosure also plays a role in printing success by ensuring an ideal ambient temperature with the option to switch on the extraction at the end of the print to remove any unpleasant odours depending on the filament type you are using.

The Snapmaker Artisan is able to utilise the full 400 x 400 x 400mm scare build volume for some truly large prints. Thankfully the style of filament holders allows for the use of rolls larger than 1kg. Ideal when prints as large as this machine is capable of.

As with the CNC'ing or Lasering use modes, the switching of toolhead module and build platform is tool-less and takes mere seconds. You'll find a trailing power connector at the back of the print surface which is connected to the capped cable at the rear of the enclosure. You also need to connect the two Bowden tubes to the top of the print module. This again is a tool-less task and take 20 stress free seconds.

I would like to see some additional information on screen whilst printing. For example, at the moment the current layer height/number and time-elapsed are missing.

When heading into the settings to pre-heat the nozzles there are separate screen for the for the left and right nozzle. Whenever you switch between them the printer does a little hop between its nozzles which makes the switch back and fourth on screen slower. I personally would prefer an overview of the machines nozzle and print bed temperatures to be shown on the home screen when the 3D printing module and platform are detected. Then in the setting screens I would like to see the two nozzles combined onto one screen. I feel they have enough room to do it without abandoning their design aesthetic.

Software - Luban 4

Snapmaker maintain their own GCODE generating software, Luban , to help you prepare your artwork for 3D printing, CNC machining or Laser etching/cutting. It's available for free and runs on all the major operating systems. Mac, Windows, and Linux.

For those of you who are interested, the software itself was built on the codebase of cncjs and uses the CuraEngine as the backend 3D slicing engine. Luban itself is open source and hosted on Github .

Its development alongside the Snapmaker hardware means that features such as the camera capture for the Laser module are easy to locate and use. Though I don't have the optional Rotary Module I can see that they have also taken care of including an appropriate specialised workspace to aid in the creating of 4-axis machine code.

Snapmaker have sent to me a pre-release version of Luban 4.5 to use whilst testing the machine. This version will be adding the newer features such as dual extrusion 3D printing to it's suite of tools. It has a few bugs understandably. I will revisit this section and take judgement on the new version of Luban when it reaches the general release stage of its development cycle. To judge it know on stability would be unfair.

I will however say that I have been using the previous version of Luban for sometime. It has its own little niggles but it regularly receives updates and the problems are becoming fewer and further between . I encourage you to report them via the project Github page to help Snapmaker further improve this powerful piece of software.

Final thoughts

This has become a machine which is truly heading towards becoming a master of each trade.

Usually when a tool does multiple jobs, it does none as well as a dedicated single job tool. The Snapmaker A350T felt like that when it came to 3D printing and CNC machining. The updates made to the Artisan have addressed both of these whilst also continuing to improve the Laser function. There are also a great deal of what used to be 'optional upgrades' which now come as standard such as the enclosure, emergency stop button, 10W laser and more.

And the quick change mechanisms! Wow, they make such a difference to any friction felt when you, for example, wanted to Laser something but you were most recently CNC'ing. I used to put making off because of the switch but not any more. Creativity and fun are no easier and doesn't want that. Another side note is the fact you no longer have to power off the machine to change modules. This not only makes I quicker still, but also allows you to keep the enclosure light on whilst changing between functions.

Here is my super brief summary and opinion of each mode of use:

3D printing: It has all the features of mainstream non-budget printers. Auto-levelling, filament run out sensors, heated bed. It now improves on most with a dual zone heated bed and dual extrusion. I do worry that I'll miss the flexible print surface, the A350T had it and my other printers do as well. But to be honest to myself it has not been any issue yet. The Artisan has the largest available build volume of all my machines though so I'm looking forward to exploring that.

Laser module: I loved this module on the A350T and will love it more on the Artisan. To start, it now comes with the 10W module as standard. The improved and included enclosure vastly reduces the possibility of harm. The increased size of laser platform and the ability to switch functions quicker than before is a bonus. I also much prefer the newer system for fixing materials to the surface.

CNC Routing: I dabbled in this with my previous machine but the long work times meant I often chose to create projects by other tools and methods. This has been massively addressed on the Artisan with 4X more motor power and 50% more spindle speed available. Watch this space! ��

What needs work: Nothing is perfect. If I could ask Snapmaker to focus their efforts on certain areas then I would ask for Luban to have some additional features. PrusaSlicer allows you to use support material only at the point where it contact the work piece - this would be ideal for vastly reducing the amount of expensive materials required such as when using soluble filaments. I would also like to be able to import artwork for the Laser where colours can be assigned processes. For example it's common to encounter files where black lines need cutting and red is for engraving.

I will be continuing to put the Snapmaker Artisan through its paces this winter and will endeavour to come back to this review and showcase some of what I have produced as examples for you. I will also update my opinions and views as I learn more and the software evolves.

So, if a friend asked if they should treat themselves to the new 2023 Snapmaker Artisan my answer is - if you every think you'll do more than just one discipline then this is without doubt the machine to get.

Where to buy:

Snapmaker direct: snapmaker.sjv.io/zxLoyr

Technical Details:

Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus Review

Wed, 14 Dec 2022 21:59:02 GMT

Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus

Built on the feature set established by the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, the 'Plus' version brings a larger build volume to the table with many of the features you could want in a desktop 3D FDM printer.

Pros:

Direct extrusion
Large, clear and responsive controls
New integrated LED lighting
Power Outage Recovery
320 x 320 x 400mm build volume

Cons:

Very tall machine - won't fit under most cabinets
Front mounted USB port
Printer head cable management

Where to buy:

Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 3Plus
3D Jake (They have great stock levels): Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus

What is it?

Basically put, the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus is the larger version of the Neptune 3 Pro FDM 3D printer. If you're not familiar with the 3 Pro then you can read my review for that here . Don't fear though, I will include everything you need to know in this review and probably a few extra superfluous points along the way!

What is an FDM printer?

The Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The printers main selling point is its much larger build volume. Measuring 320 x 320 x 400mm it provides a massive 40,960cm³ of printing room. This is over 254% larger than the Neptune 3 Pro's build volume of 16,065cm³ (its build volume measures 225 x 255 x280mm). This is a substantial print size ability allowing you to print bigger objects in one piece, or many smaller/ standard size items unattended.

The print bed is removable and magnetic. This makes detaching a print super easy and quick, just wait for it to cool then bend the plate slightly - your print will pop right off. The surface on the plate has a slightly textured finish which helps hide the printed lines on the first layer whilst encouraging adhesion when you need it.

The power supply has been integrated inside of the base which makes for a slicker visual appeal and one less item to assemble. On earlier version the PSU fan seemed to run constantly, however on the model I'm testing the PSU fan reduces in volume as its work load decreases. (i.e. after a print has finished and the machine is idle).

Integrated LED Lighting

As featured for the first time on the 3 Pro, this model also sports integrated LED lights. These are found nestled inside the top gantry. I thought they would be gimmicky - when in fact I'm finding them very useful for illuminating the machine whilst preparing and actually printing the models.

Connectivity

The power switch and kettle lead connections are mounted on the right hand side towards the rear of the machine. The USB and memory card slot is mounted on the front of the machine. I personally think that this a great spot for the memory card slot but I prefer the USB port on the side and failing that the rear. This is because I think it is less prone to damage when the machine is connected to a computer for direct printing. I often set-up a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint to manage my printers and this manages your printer via USB.

Extruder

The Neptune 3 Plus uses a direct drive extrusion system. This is my preferred method of extrusion over the use of a Bowden Tube .

Pros:

Increased ability to print with flexible filaments.
Better print quality through constant extrusion control.
Faster retraction.
Simpler extrusion path.

Cons:

Reduced print speeds because of heavier print head.
More elaborate print head design required.

Unlike most Direct Drive setups though. Elegoo have kept the filament sensor attached to the frame of the machine instead of the print head.

The printer features auto-levelling to compensate for any undulations in the print surface. The printer takes no less than 47 readings across the entire print surface to create a digital map of the surface which it then uses to adjust the printing height as it moves around the platform. Should the compensation required be too drastic there are large knobs placed on the underside of the platform in six locations. (Three along each side). This will allow you to manually remove most of the unevenness before the printer then re-runs its levelling procedure to make final adjustments automatically.

Shipping and Packing

I have had plenty of packages from Elegoo over the years and I'm yet to experience any damage to the products inside. The Neptune 3 Plus arrived with an opening torn in the top of the box which, thanks to the dense foam packing, had no impact on the printer itself.

Being a larger printer the box unsurprisingly larger as well. The shipping box measures 70 x 60 x 25cm (perhaps this is the first bit of superfluous information I mentioned earlier?).

There are not too many individual items inside the box. Everything is well packed and labelled for quick and easy identification. The base of the printer itself is large and carries a reassuring weight. The printing platform decided to extend itself as I lifted it from the packaging which was not super helpful when getting it onto the table. ��

What else is included?

There are plenty of accessories included. More than enough to kit you out if this is your first FDM 3D printer, plenty of spare parts and all the tools you would need to repair and maintain your new machine. The parts list is almost identical to the Neptune 3 Pro with the exception of additional bolts to assemble the vertical braces. (Nuts and bolts for assembly are omitted from the below photo).

Print removal spatular
Spanners for changing nozzle
Two spare brass nozzles
Acupuncture Needle (to clear blockages)

Screwdrivers (Philips and flat head)
Selection of Allen Keys
Micro SD / TF Card
USB Memory Card Reader
PTFE Tube (Spare)

Flush Snips / Cutters
USB Cable
Sample of PLA Filament
Cable Ties
Bolts for assembly

Assembly

This is genuinely so simple it's almost difficult to write about. Essentially the printer arrives in two major halves; the base and the vertical frame. The vertical frame and base are bolted together with four bolts (two each side). This is best done on the machines side. You can then right the printer and attach the control screen (one cable) and it's mount (three bolts). The spool holder and filament sensor are attached with just three more bolts at the top.

As this machine is so tall it includes two bracing rods which run from the back of the machine to the top. Again, four bolts and a couple of washer and they're installed in just seconds.

Electronics

All the wiring for the various motors and sensors have already been thoughtfully routed around the machine and present themselves ready for connection alongside the correct component.

Well, I say impossible, but I did make an honest mistake. The large collection of neatly bundled wires from the bed first stop at the X axis motor (on the left hand side of the vertical gantry) before carrying on to the print head itself where they terminate. As the machine is shipped with the X axis at the top of the gantry I, without thought or warning from the instructions, passed the wire behind the brace and into the print head.

This is not a problem towards the top of the machine, however, as the X axis lowers when calibrating the printer for the first time, the support rod which I had passed the wiring loom around becomes further from the gantry. Ultimately, as the print head reached the printing bed the path the wiring was now taking from the X-axis motor to the print head was great then the length of the cable and itself so it begun to pull away from the connector before I killed the power.

Nothing was damaged and I simply had to reroute this one cable to between the support rod and vertical extrusion of the printer. A re-visit of the manual shows that (most likely for clarity) the cable paths themselves are not included in the drawings. I feel that this one possibly common mistake warrants an additional step to clarify its correct path in the instructions.

Instruction manual

Talking of instructions, the instructions are concise and mostly in a pictorial form. I had no problem consulting them except for the missing warning about routing the print head cable. Take a look at the manual yourself if you would like - I have linked to it for your personal perusal.

Elegoo have also included a handy video guide of the assembly procedure which you will find saved on the memory stick included with your new printer. Thanks Elegoo. ��

First Print

Levelling the Bed

This process was incredibly easy and proved accurate as no further tweaks were required when making the proceeding test prints.

The instructions for levelling the print bed have improved greatly since the Neptune 3 Pro - something I called to attention when reviewing the Pro iteration. It shows Elegoo listen and act upon feedback to ensure their development inches closer towards both a fantastic printer and set-up experience.

Loading the Filament

This a process improved on both the Pro and Plus machines. It has become a simple case of passing the filament effortlessly though the detector at the top of the gantry, pressing the comfortable lever on the top of the print head before inserting the filament a few cm's and then releasing.

All that is left to do is to heat the nozzle using the touchscreen (Elegoo provides a handy set of presets for common materials) and pressing load. Done.

Printing the included Sample Model

I always start by printing any bundled models using any bundled filament for the printers first print. It seems fair to use it in its best light.

The Buddha is their chosen test print and I can gladly say that I can't see any glaring issues with the print quality. No surprise their of course. However, printing a model Elegoo have pre-selected and using their supplied filament does not provide ample opportunity to stress the machine. And in this case it certainly doesn't demonstrate the printers ability to create large items!

Printing gets bigger

This the largest object I have ever printed on a 3D printer myself. It's a vase design I found on Printables which was naturally printed using 'Vase Mode'.

It measures 21.8cm in width and 36cm in height - it printed first time without hiccups. After the print bed had cooled it was removable from the print bed with the gentlest of touch.

Total time to print was around 10.5 hours and I used PLA.

This has me rather excited. It is mildly frustrating when the size of your build plate limits your options for designing and printing items. As much as I am unlikely to use the full print volume for a single item in my public projects (I need to ensure others can print the parts on smaller printers) it does allow me to print several parts overnight or build larger items for personal projects.

I have a roll of two tone filament which I can't wait to print an additional vase design with. And this ability to print vases in a larger size seems to lend the vase a feeling of luxuriousness.

The image can be clicked on and enlarged to allow for much closer inspection should you wish.

Torture Test

This print is designed to stress the machine a little more.

I have used PrusaSlicer 2.5.0 to prepare the G-code.

Don't forget to click on any image to open a higher resolution copy to inspect for yourself.

I am impressed with the quality for the price point. There is evidence of slightly more stringing on the points at the top in comparison to the Neptune 3 Pro though it is certainly no issue. A quick wave of a heat gun entirely removes the strings as they're so fine. All five of the Negative Feature test items came out without any issues. The bridging tests are fine and the overhang only shows signs of struggling at 45º, though it still did achieve it. The two internal perimeters of the Fine Feature test platform are hanging away from the other strands. I can't be certain if this is an issue of the printer or slicing software - it doesn't constitute a failure but it's not desirable either.

Software

The version of customised Cura included on the memory card of my test machine was 4.8. Cura is currently on version 5.2.1 and as such it prompted me to update. I obliged only to realise that the latest version of Cura did not contain the printer profiles for many of Elegoos latest printers including the Neptune 3 Pro or Plus. Perhaps they will include it in the future, but for now it means we cannot take advantage of the advancements in Slicing Software past version 4.8.

Final Thoughts

I would not hesitate to recommend this printer to someone looking for a large format printer from a recognised brand at a sensible price.

The print size increase is going to be very welcome. With my current machine I often set an alarm to wake me up through the night so that I can remove a finished print and start the next. On the Elegoo Neptune Plus I will be able to add several models to the print bed and enjoy a good nights sleep!

The machine it self looks smart. And as for Elegoo themselves, I recently had a problem with a resin printer of theirs and their support representatives where extremely helpful and promptly solved my problem (they sent a new motherboard and some resin for the inconvenience) so I have no issues with the brand.

Where to buy:

Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus
Elegoo direct: Neptune 3 Plus

3D Printed Desktop Neon Signs

Mon, 05 Dec 2022 20:51:25 GMT

How to build customisable 3D Printable Desktop Neon Signs

Neon effect LED signs are popping up everywhere at the moment which is understandable, they look fantastic and are super easy to build at home. So I wanted to design and share some of my own.

These ones can be powered by either a USB cable or 4 'AA' batteries giving you a lot of flexibility for placement. Why not use one to illuminate your next garden or beachside party?

They are also dimmable to help create the right level of ambience for any setting. Use it to help illuminate a room or dial it down for a more subtle addition to your decor.

As for customising? You can print the parts in any rigid filament colour, It’s your choice as well for the colour of Neon effect LED’s used.

There are several ready designed Neon shapes you can choose from and I’ll be adding creating more over time. And if you're comfortable you can edit the design and create something totally unique either for yourself or as a thoughtfully made gift to someone else.

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

Neon effect LED strips: https://geni.us/NeonLEDStrip5v
Resistors 1kΩ (x2): https://geni.us/Ufa2s
Capacitors 0.1µF (x2): https://geni.us/Capacitor
Switching Diodes IN4148 (x2): https://geni.us/IN4148-Diode
Toggle Switch DPDT (x1): https://geni.us/DPDT-Toggle-Switch
Female USB Socket (x1): https://geni.us/MiniUSBSocket
50k Rotary Potentiometer (x1): https://geni.us/Potentiometers
555 timer IC (x1): https://geni.us/555Timer
MOSFET Transistor (IRLB8721PBF) (x1): https://geni.us/IRLB8721PBF
Bolts (M3x8mm x6): https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
AA Battery PCB Mount (x4): https://geni.us/AABatteryPCBMount
Electrical hook-up wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
Filament: https://geni.us/3DJake (I used PLA)
Projects PCB: https://geni.us/DesktopNeonSigns

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/332454-how-to-make-desktop-neon-signs-3d-printable-batter

Additional shapes:

I am also working on some additional shapes which will be available on Etsy over the next few days for just a few pounds/dollars which all goes to help fund the next project.

Etsy shop: www.diymachines.etsy.com

Wiring Diagram:

This is a diagram showing you the same wiring used in the projects PCB. You can use this to create your own circuit on a piece of perforated board or similar if you do not want to use the PCB.

Community:

Discord sever for project: https://discord.gg/VjNdvW9RV6

There is a comments section just below where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

Comments

Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro Review

Wed, 09 Nov 2022 08:25:35 GMT

Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro

A continuous evolution of the Neptune line of FDM 3D printers, this improves in several ways on an already solid predecessor.

Pros:

Direct extrusion
Large, clear and responsive controls
New integrated LED lighting
Power Outage Recovery

Cons:

Very tall machine - won't fit under most cabinets
Front mounted USB port

Where to buy:

Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
3D Jake: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro

What is it?

The Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro is the latest (at time of writing) and greatest FDM printer from Elegoo. Naturally it would feature refinements and improvements across the board, and unsurprisingly the 'Pro' designation highlights additional features to improve reliability, quality and usability. For example its newfound ability to work with a wider range of filaments such as flexible materials thanks to its move to direct extrusion as opposed to the previous non-pro models use of a Bowden tube extrusion system.

The Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The printers 225 x 255 x280mm is marginally wider and deeper than the standard Neptune 3 (5mm increase in both directions). This is a fairly decent volume and you'll be able to print most predesigned models you might download of the internet.

The power supply has been integrated inside of the base which makes for a slicker visual appeal and one less item to assemble. However, this seems to have resulted in the need for a fan in the base which continuously moves air through the machine even when the nozzle and bed are not preheated resulting in a continues base level of 'noise' whenever the printer is switched on.

New to this model are the integrated LED lights. These are found nestled inside the top gantry. I thought they would be gimmicky - when in fact I'm finding them very useful for illuminating the machine whilst preparing and actually printing the models.

Power switch and kettle lead connections are mounted on the left hand side towards the rear of the machine. The USB and memory card slot is mounted on the front of the machine. I personally think the is a great spot for the memory card slot but I prefer the USB port on the side and failing that the rear. This is because I think it is less prone to damage when the machine is connected to a computer for direct printing. I often set-up a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint to manage my printers and this prints via USB.

The most visible difference is the use of a direct extruder system on the pro model. Like everything , this comes with pros and cons:

Pros:

Increased ability to print with flexible filaments.
Better print quality through constant extrusion control.
Faster retraction.
Simpler extrusion path.

Cons:

Slower print speeds because of heavier print head.
Reduced print volume depending on design of extruder.
More elaborate print head design required.

You can see two extrusion setups demonstrated in the comparison photos showing the Bowden setup of the Neptune 3 and Direct Drive used in the newer Neptune 3 Pro.

Unlike most Direct Drive setups though. Elegoo have kept the filament sensor attached to the frame of the machine instead of the print head.

Elegoo have managed to minimise the effect of the 'cons' listed above. For example complexity, size, and weight of the print head was reduced by moving the filament sensor to the top of the machine nearer the spool. (This also provides earlier warning when you're running out of filament).

A simple slight increase in physical height of the machine negates any decrease in available print height. (Roughly 52cm in height vs the 50cm height of the non-pro version).

Though the printer has come from the factory with its belts pre-tensioned there are easily accessible knobs that allow you to adjust the tension if needed. (I did not need to tweak any of the factory set tensions). Similarly there are four control knobs on the underside of the print bed for levelling adjustment when the variance in the surface height is too extreme for the auto levelling feature. These are tucked a little further in but I imagine it is highly unlikely these will need adjusting unless you experience a significant collision.

The power outage recovery feature is very welcome. It is incredibly annoying if you are printing something expected to take many many hours only to find that during the night a power cut meant your project was brought to an abrupt and unexpected halt. The power recovery feature will detect this and offer to re-heat the bed and nozzle before resuming where it was before the power failed. The main drawback of this feature is that it only work when at least 10mm of the print has already been completed - I assume this helps ensure the print it continues with is unlikely to have warped whilst cooling.

Shipping and Packing

I have had plenty of packages from Elegoo over the years and despite some arriving with their outer boxes pierced during shipping I'm yet to experience any damage to the products inside. This is a testament to their generously padded and well thought out containers. This one is no different. The parts inside are spread over two levels and everything is easily removed.

In comparison one of the pieces of the Original Neptune 3 printer was enclosed over two levels of foam making for a trickier than expected extraction of that part. No such hurdles this time.

This is the box unpacked. Although some assembly is required, the contents offer up a pleasing peek at how quick assembly is going to be. (Spoiler Alert: it is extremely simple �� ).

What else is included?

Print removal spatular
Spanners for changing nozzle
Two spare brass nozzles
Acupuncture Needle (to clear blockages)

Screwdrivers (Philips and flat head)
Selection of Allen Keys
Micro SD / TF Card
USB Memory Card Reader
PTFE Tube (Spare)

Snips
USB Cable
Sample of PLA Filament
Cable Ties
Bolts for assembly

Assembly

This is a very simple process. The 3D printer is supplied in two halves. These are bolted together using four bolts from the underside.

The accessories need attaching next which includes the magnetic screen mount, extruder cable clip, spool holder and filament sensor.

Electronics

All the wiring for the various motors and sensors have already been thoughtfully routed around the machine and present themselves ready for connection alongside the correct component.

To help ensure the correct cable goes to the correct part each one is labelled and differently sized connectors are used. I didn't need to consult the instructions save for ensuring I had not overlooked any.

Instruction manual

The instructions are concise and mostly in a pictorial form. I had no problem consulting them except I felt a little more instruction would be beneficial for the steps taken to run the auto bed levelling program. (More on that later). Take a look at the manual yourself if you would like - I have linked to it for your personal perusal.

Elegoo have also included a handy video guide of the assembly procedure which you will find included on the memory stick include with your new printer. Thanks Elegoo. ��

First Print

Levelling the Bed

The printer automatically measures the height of the print surface across a grid of 36 unique points and uses this information to calculate a mathematical model it refers to whilst printing to compensate for any warping of the print bed.

This process was incredibly easy and proved accurate as no further tweaks were required when making the proceeding test prints.

My one gripe comes down to the instructions provided for this step in the booklet. Elegoo shows an image of the levelling menu on the touchscreen and draws your attention to the buttons which matter. It could be improved if they also clarified in what order calibration should be performed - i.e. level the print bed before setting the first layer height. Perhaps this does not matter but in either case the vagueness here in the instructions was the only let down of the assembly and first print preparations literature.

Loading the Filament

The process of loading the filament has been improved on the Neptune 3 Pro. I was not terribly keen on the process of feeding the filament though the filament detector, robbed gears, Bowden tube, and finally extruder for the earlier model. On this Pro integration its a case of passing the filament effortlessly though the detector at the top of the gantry, pressing the comfortable lever on the top of the print head before inserting the filament a few cm's and then releasing.

All that is left to do is to heat the nozzle using the touchscreen (Elegoo provides a handy set of presets for common materials) and pressing load.

Printing the included Sample Model

It seemed only fair that the first print completed should be the included sample model file on the memory card printed with the included sample of PLA filament.

After selecting it on the touchscreen the fans whirred into life as the print bed and nozzle heated unto the required temperatures. During printing the display offered up various metrics such a print time remaining, an image of the finished print (provided by the slicing software) and controls to allow adjustment to be made during the print process if required.

Click on either of the photos of the sample print to view a larger size and judge the quality for yourself. I am very impressed. It was printed at a 0.15mm layer height. No lifting or warping of the base occurred and extrusion appears to be consistent. Their is a fleck of red partially though the print but this is the filament used in the factory when testing which was not fully purged when changing the filament colour to the one I was using.

Torture Test

To only print Elegoo's preselected model would make for a terrible review (naturally they will have chosen something within the capabilities of the machine) so I have chosen to print a torture test.

I will print the same one created by AutoDesk and Kickstarter I use on all FDM printers which I review. This allows us to push the limits of the machine such as overhang, bridging and retraction abilities. It also allows for a fair and convenient comparison.

Don't forget to click on any image to open a higher resolution copy to inspect for yourself.

Well I have to say I am mightily impressed by the results. Stringing was kept to a minimum. All five of the cylinders printed to test negative objects tolerances were removable. The 0.2mm one took a little persuasion with a wiggle but it did come out. The bridges look marvellous and the overhangs as clean as you could hope at the angles tested. Well done Elegoo, it may have taken 5hrs 14mins to print but it printed it very well indeed.

Software

The version of customised Cura included on the memory card of my test machine was 4.8. Cura is currently on version 5.2.1 and as such it prompted me to update. I obliged only to realise that the latest version of Cura did not contain the printer profiles for many of Elegoos latest printers including the Neptune 3 Pro. Perhaps they will include it in the future, but for now it means we cannot take advantage of the advancements in Slicing Software past version 4.8.

Final Thoughts

I'm impressed with the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. If I had to give a single sentence high level summary it would be that it creates great quality prints at a steady, but not fast, pace.

The addition of LEDs turned out to be more welcome than I had expected, illuminating the machine and print to allow for a clearer view of what's happening. The Direct Drive Extrusion system is similar to that on my Prusa i3 Mk3s and it's caused me very few problems there and I don't expect it to cause problems on the Neptune.

From an aesthetic stand point the machine looks very sleek, thanks to the omission of a Bowden tube and additional stepper motor mounted to the frame, as well as the power supply being built into the base. As much as this means one less thing to assemble it does have drawbacks - the fan. There is a fan in the base designed to cool the components within - this fan however runs continuously, even when the printer sits idle with no heating of the nozzle or bed. It can be overcome simply by switching the printer off when not printing - but sometimes between prints it can be a little tiring. This is only a small problem.

I had to print two of the torture test models as whilst printing the first one we had an extremely rare power cut. I thought 'No Problem, it's the perfect test for the Power Recovery feature'. Well, that didn't work out - when the power came back just seconds later the printer restarted apparently clueless to the fact that just moments ago it was part way through a print. I've emailed Elegoo for clarification on what went wrong here and will update this review when I found out more.

Common tasks such as changing the filament, clearing the print bed, and starting a new print are all very easy thanks to numerous features mentioned earlier in the review. The ability to change nozzles is welcome and the large touchscreen interface makes for easy control of the machine.

Where to buy:

Amazon: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro
Elegoo direct: Link to follow when available

Wifi 3D Printed Steam Train with Live View Camera

Sat, 03 Sep 2022 18:57:26 GMT

How to build a Smart 3D Printed Steam Train with live view POV camera (ESP32-CAM), steam effect and working lantern.

H ello I’m Lewis and this is how to make your very own 3d printable steam train complete with a cool water based smoke effect, inbuilt miniature camera which streams a live view as it drives around your garden, living room or model railway and a working front lantern. It looks soooo cool at night

The tracks are also 3D printed and are suitable for outdoor or indoor use. My train was printed in PLA for ease and the track in PETG as I installed mine outdoors permantley. The track has been outside for around 28 months and still works perfectly fine.

All of this is controlled from your existing smart telephone by connecting directly to the trains own inbuilt web server and wifi network powered by an E SP32-CAM .

E verything has been designed to an ‘O’ gauge model railway standard so you can mix and match it with other O gauge models and track.

I wanted a garden railway for some time but the trains were expensive, especially those with smoke effects, this one was much cheaper to make, plus I got to paint it how I want it and learned a few things along the way whilst making it.

On this page you'll find everything you need to know to be able to build your own . You’ll need a 3D printer and a few basic electronic components. Everything I used is linked to below, and further down have included some helpful tips and an FAQ . Enjoy.

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

ESP32-Cam (inc. programming board) https://geni.us/ESP32-CAM
Common Geared Motor (x1): https://geni.us/TT-Motor
3-way wago connectors (though the design can accommodate a 3 or 5 way if that’s what you already have): (x2) https://geni.us/Wago221
Motor driver: HG7881/ L9110S (x1) https://geni.us/HG7881-Driver
5mm LED (x1): https://geni.us/LEDs
220 ohm resistor (x1): https://geni.us/Ufa2s
2 magnets for each carriage (10x3mm):
3mm brass rod : https://geni.us/3mm-Brass-Rod (30cm worth is enough)
Compact USB battery pack: https://geni.us/USB-Battery-Small
Rubber Gaskets for drive wheels 39mm ID x mm 3mm C/S (x4): https://geni.us/Gasket-39mmID-3mmCS
Bearings (3x6x2.5): https://geni.us/Bearing-3x6x2-5
Atomizer and Driver for the Steam effect (x1): https://geni.us/Atomiser
3D printing filament - I used 3D Jakes PLA for the train and PETG for the tracks as mine will be outdoors all year round. https://geni.us/3DJake
Electrical wire - I’ll also be trimming down some Female jumper wires to make easy use of their connectors:
Wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
Jumpers: https://geni.us/JumperWires
Some bolts: https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
M2 x 8 ( x2 )
M2.5 x 8 ( x2 )
M3 x 8 ( x22 )
M4 x 20 ( x4 )
Paint for decorating: https://geni.us/Vallejo-Steam
Grey primer: https://geni.us/Grey-primer
Gloss finishing coat: https://geni.us/Gloss-Protection-Spray

Downloads:

Please 'like' the model on Printables. It really helps me out. Thank you.

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/268716

Code:

The code for the project can be downloaded from Github : https://github.com/DIY-Machines/Smart-Model-Steam-Train

The full written guide for programming the ESP is further down this page.

Wiring Diagram:

This is a diagram showing you the same wiring as demonstrated in the projects video.

Painting the model

You'll need a just a few things to decorate the train as I did. If you're lucky enough to have an airbrush, great, but I didn't (as much as I wanted to treat myself to one) so I used spray cans and paints along with a small basic kids paint brush.

Paint for decorating: https://geni.us/Vallejo-Steam
Grey primer: https://geni.us/Grey-primer
Gloss finishing coat: https://geni.us/Gloss-Protection-Spray

I decorated the each printed part of the train before assembly. This allowed for better coverage of sprays and paint.

Undercoat

To help disguise the original colour of the filament used for the printed parts I started with a base coat of 'Hycote Grey Primer'. Not only does this cover the parts original colour, but also provides better adhesion for the following layer of paints and slightly reduces the appearance of layer line artefacts from the printing process.

Follow the instructions on the can. Mine required shaking for a few minutes and then painting several thin layers with a side too side motion. To help me get at all the surfaces I used some blue tac to temporary fix the printed part to then of a glass bottle.

Decorative coat

I used a common cheap children's painting brush and some Vallejo acrylic model paints to add the colours. I found these to have excellent coverage quality and further helped to reduce the visibility of layer lines. I applied at least two coats of this allowing around 10 minutes to dry at room temperature between applications.

They also stock a range of 'liquid metal' paints which create a very smart and ey catching metallic metal effect. I opted for gold on one of my models and bronze on the second. Both really gave a fantastic feel of a highly cared for and polished steam engine.

Protective coat

To help protect the paint job from abrasion and dampness I finished the model with a few coats of clear gloss sealer. This is also gave everything a lovely sheen. If you wanted something less reflective then you can get selling sprays in matt and satin finishes as well.

Programming the ESP-32

There are several (easy to follow) steps required to be able to upload code to your ESP32-CAM board. Some of them you may be able to skip if you have already completed them before, for example, installing the Arduino IDE. The steps you need to follow are:

Install Arduino IDE
Install the ESP32 Board
Connect your board to your PC
Upload the projects code

Installing Arduino IDE

If you do not already have the Arduino IDE installed (software to help programs microcontrollers) you can freely download it from Arduino at: https://www.arduino.cc/en/software

I'm using their newer 2.0 version of their software in the screenshots below but the instructions are close to identical for both the new Arduino IDE 2.0 and the Original Arduino IDE. Just follow their simple installation instructions on their website..

Installing the ESP32 Board

The Board Manager within the Arduino IDE allows us to install additional Cores. A Core allows the software to add compatibility for additional microcontroller such as the ESP32-CAM we are using for our model steam train.

Before we can add the board core we require we need to let the Arduino IDE know where it can look to find the files we need. To do this go to 'File' > 'Preference (or on a Mac 'Arduino IDE' > 'Preferences')'. In the window that opens add the following into the 'Additional Board Managers URLs' field:

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/espressif/arduino-esp32/gh-pages/package_esp32_index.json

If you already find another URL in the box, just separate the two from one another with a comma. You can then press OK to save the changes.

To add the required cores, in the Arduino IDE, click on 'Tools' menu along the top followed by 'Board' and then 'Boards Manager'.

In the window which opens for the Boards Manager you will find a search box along the top. Search here for 'ESP32' and then install the software for 'ESP32 by Espressif Systems' (if it was not already installed).

Connect your board to your PC

To connect your ESP32-CAM to your PC you will use a USB connection. We use an 'FTDI' board ( Future Technology Devices International ) to convert our USB signals to a signal our ESP32 microcontroller will understand. You r ESP32-CAM board should be able to 'piggy back' onto of the FTDI board like so:

This is then connected to your computer using a USB cable.

Upload the projects code

Now you can simply download the projects code from it's page on Github: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/Smart-Model-Steam-Train

Once your on the Github page, click 'Code' and then 'Download ZIP'.

Open the ZIP folder which you just downloaded and then open the SmartTrain.ino file in the Arduino IDE you prepared earlier. With your board connected to your PC with a USB cable via the FTDI programmer we can select the board type of 'AI Thinker ESP32-CAM' from the drop down near the top. Then press the upload button.

The last thing we need to do is hold down the 'RST' button (shown on the left) on the programmer board until you see the text 'Connecting.......' with a trail of '........' growing in the console window on the IDE.

At this point you should release the button and the code will upload.

If it fails just repeat the same instructions for this step and retry the upload.

Community:

Discord sever for project: https://discord.gg/rtYGrSfJeP

There is a comments section just below where you can also engage with other makers. However I do find the Discord community more active. :)

Comments

Snapmaker 10w Laser Module

Tue, 02 Aug 2022 12:20:21 GMT

Snapmaker 10w Laser Module

A massive improvement in so many ways over the original 1600mw laser module and the best upgrade yet I've added to my Snapmaker A350T.

Pros:

Significantly faster whilst cutting or engraving
The autofocus system removes the need to measure 99% of materials
Single capture camera for artwork placement

Cons:

Noisiest component of the Snapmaker whilst in operation
Snapmaker Luban doesn't yet realise all its possible speed gains

Where to buy:

Amazon: https://geni.us/Snapmaker2-3in1
Snapmaker direct: https://snapmaker.com/snapmaker-10w-laser-module

What is it?

The Snapmaker 10w Laser Module is the latest upgrade for Snapmaker's range of desktop CNC machines whose distinguishing feature is their interchangeable modules/tool heads. This allows their range of machines (you can read my review of the A350T) to quickly swap between functioning as either a 3D printer, CNC router, or a laser cutter/engraver.

This 10w laser is an optional, and in my opinion, totally worthwhile upgrade if you use the laser function even semi-regularly.

The included standard 1.6w laser module has done me well, but for reasons I'll go into throughout this review, has now long been buried in the cupboard and forgotten about. Whilst, with the 10W laser module, I get to feel the excitement of new possibilities all over again thanks to the new found possibilities this newer, smarter, stronger, and faster 10w laser delivers.

The Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

Machined from stylish and sturdy metal the module fits in with the same design aesthetics and solid build quality as the rest of the Snapmaker range.

In comparison to the standard 1.6w laser module, with the 10w module, you're able to cut deeper with fewer passes as well as seeing improvements to engraving speeds with its tighter more parallel laser beam resulting in sharply defined markings.

The additional power also expands the range of materials you can work with - I'm now able to etch powder-coated aluminium with decent results. Something the previous module was almost incapable of achieving.

Shipping and Packing

The package arrived in a sturdy outer box without barely a mark so I had no worries about the condition of what was inside. After opening up the brown shipping box you're greeted with a very Apple-like brilliant white shrink wrapped packaging emblazoned with an illustration of the module and foil text proudly announcing its arrival.

I'm sure I can't be the only person who enjoys a well packaged and thought out unboxing experience and this so far was delivering.

What else is included?

Laser safety glasses
10w Laser Module (no surprise there)
Cotton buds for cleaning lens
Spare replacement lens
Bolts for securing to Snapmaker
Sample of Acrylic
Sample of basswood
Sample of powder coated aluminium
Printed quick start guide

Don't forget that the cardboard it shipped in also provides additional materials to work with.

They also offer a kit which includes the metal ridged laser bed you install onto the Snapmaker to play your materials on. This is ideal if you purchased their 3D printing model and now want to add laser capabilities to your Snapmaker F350 or F250

Assembly

Attaching the 10w Laser Module is trivial. It involves removing whichever tool head is currently installed on your machine by disconnecting a quick clip cable (after powering off your machine) and then undoing four easy to access bolts.

Installing the 10W Laser is a simple case of repeating these steps in reverse.

We also need to let Luban (Snapmaker's free software for preparing projects for the machine) know that we have the 10W laser installed. On my Mac, this is just a case of heading to apps preferences and selecting the 10W Laser in the 'Laser Module' drop down in the 'Machine Settings' pane.

Instruction manual

The instructions are concise. Predominantly made up of warnings (which you would do well to read) and then a step-by-step guide for producing your first project. The Snapmaker's onscreen controls will also conveniently guide you through using your new module.

Using the laser module

The steps required for programming and running the laser are almost identical to that of the 1.6w laser module the Snapmaker A350T came with - accept the engineers at Snapmaker have managed to completely remove the need to manually focus the laser before each job and the camera capture preview technology is vastly improved.

Let's go through a typical job so if you've not used a Snapmaker Laser before you will learn what it entails and I'll highlight where the process differs for those of you who are thinking of upgrading from an existing 1.6w laser.

We will use Snapmaker Luban to cut out Letter 'L' out of a piece of wood and also engrave my name (Lewis) inside the 'L' during the same job. A hole will also be cut at the top to allow for hanging.

Capture an image of the work material

I want to use up an off-cut of 5mm wood from a previous project. Snapmaker's Camera Capture is perfect for this - and it's been enhanced with the 10W Laser Module. With the new module, after we have connected to the Snapmaker, we can simply click 'Camera Capture' and then 'Add Background'.

The tool head will quickly move to the centre of the workspace and capture an image in a single shot using its upgraded higher resolution wide-angle camera. We can now position our artwork as we create it with an accuracy of about 2mm. Plenty of precision for general positioning.

The previous 1.6w incarnation of the laser needed to take a series of 9 images in a 3x3 grid and then attempt to stitch them together. I honestly had little success with this - even after recalibrating the stitching process a few times - so it was a feature I stopped using. However, I capture a background image every time now as a matter of course. It's quick and provides some reassurance when preparing your artwork's position on the software canvas.

Creating the artwork in Luban

With the background in place we add a text box. In this textbook we put the capital letter 'L' and enlarge its font size. We can then move it around so it a few mm away from the edges of the material. Thanks to the camera capture we can place it to the bottom left of the circular cutout and make good use of our materials.

We can then continue adding another text box with 'ewis' written inside of it. We will have this engraved in a more handwritten like font. The circular cut out will be made up of the circle shape available within Luban. The sizing is accurate, so by setting the dimensions of the circle to 20mm x 20mm that is the finished size we will have in our wooden cutout. With these three pieces of artwork added we can continue onto the next stage.

Adding machining processes

The next tab on the right labelled 'Process' is where we can select one or more artwork objects on our canvas and apply a machining process to them. We can start by selecting the giant 'L' and the circle shape at the same time and then pressing the 'Create Toolpath' to apply a process to these assets.

Adding a cutting tool path

Adding an engraving tool path

You'll notice that Luban already contains a large set of presets for a variety of materials. I'm using the preset for cutting through 5mm basswood.

For the engraving, select the text to be engraved then click again on 'Create Toolpath'. This time I'm choosing the options for 'Line Filled Engraving'. This will light burn the text into the surface of the wood by drawing a series of closely packed lines.

Luban will then generate a preview of the machining process and estate a time for completion. For me, this is predicting 7 minutes.

Transferring programme to the Snapmaker

There are two main methods for transferring your machining program to your Snapmaker; USB memory stick or WiFi. I like to use the WiFi streaming method for convenience if the program will not take too long to complete. For some jobs, where the machining might be an hour or more I then like to cut out my laptop from the loop (incase it goes to sleep or similar) and save the program to a USB flash drive and insert it directly into the Snapmaker.

To submit the job to the Snapmaker Wifi we press 'Generate GCODE and Preview' which does exactly what it says on the button:

We then see the GCODE the machine will receive (minus the background image now). After pressing 'Start Job' and choosing 'Start on Luban' the Snapmaker will spring into life. Ensure you have your safety glasses on and the enclosure closed before you submit the job to the printer.

Setting autofocus and machining

So how does the Snapmaker know the correct focus distance and height of the work material?

When using the original 1.6w Laser Module you would be required to manually measure the material thickness and then input this information directly to the Snapmaker using its touchscreen. Even when repeating the same job several times over on what should be the same consistent supply of material I always measured the thickness, it's surprising how it can vary, especially with natural materials such as wood or leather.

This is one of the big upgrades and most helpful features on the 10W Laser Module. It now uses a combination of a red point of light and its camera to automatically calculate the height of the material using mathematical triangulation. It does this before every job and only takes a few seconds. There are some instances (very reflective surfaces or incredibly dark ones) where this may fail but I am yet to experience this myself.

Well done Snapmaker for entirely removing a process. ��

Once this is done the job will begin and seven minutes later we can take a look at what's waiting for us on the build platform:

And to demonstrate the accuracy of the improved Camera Capture system here is the preview from Luban (on the right-hand side) as well as the finished job on the platform for comparison. Impressive right?

Is it really faster, better and stronger?

In a word - YES.

In two words - Yes absolutely . (Can you tell I love it?)

Let's go over the highlights of the 10W Laser module and where appropriate compare it to the original 1.6W module.

High-powered wind channel

This is heavily redesigned in the 10W module and delivers a constant and strong stream of air towards the laser beam blowing fumes away as it works. This ensures that any fumes are blown down into the metal channels supporting the workpiece and away reducing their ability to interfere with the laser doing its thing.

Auto Focus

We touched on this earlier in the review so you already know how it works. In comparison though, I needed to use my verniers to manually measure the thickness of the material before securing it to the cutting platform and then entering this measurement into the Snapmaker's touch screen when requested.

Camera Capture

A substantial improvement in my opinion, though this is reflected on paper as well. With the previous incarnation, where the module captured a grid of nine photos and then attempted to stitch these together into a mosaic, was rarely successful for me. To the point I just stopped using this 'feature'.

However, it is now quick and dependable with the newer upgrade and I now use it every time as a matter of habit. The clarity of the image has improved and the accuracy of its placement on the canvas in Luban is more than precise enough for my needs.

Orientation Detection

As far as I am aware this was not a feature in the older module. The newer module now includes a gyro (like that found in your smartphone) so that the laser beam will be disabled if the tool head is positioned anyway other than absolutely vertical with the laser aperture pointing downwards. This protects the user and bystanders from the rare possibility of a stray sideways beam causing harm.

Laser strength and associated working speeds

Well, it's obvious that a 10W laser is more powerful than a 1.6W laser, but this one number does not tell the entire story. Other factors such as how parallel/convergent the beam also effects its ability to achieve good results. It would be more useful to look at actual examples of processing different projects.

For this reason, I created three projects using the 10W laser and then calculated the time to machine these projects on either the 10W or 1.6W laser to get some real world results. Here are the there projects and their related statistics:

Engraved chopping board

This is an untreated chopping board which I purchased from Ikea and then laser etched a graphic (of Lionel Richie) and a message for the recipient. The contrast is brilliant and the edges are very sharp. I then treated the chopping board with some finishing oil suitable for use on a food preparation surface.

Time to laser with 10W module: 1hr 24mins. Time to laser with 1.6W module: 2hr 1min. Speed improvement of 44%

Cut and engraved plant signs

The wooden plant labels are cut from 4mm thick birch plywood. The text is engraved before cutting to ensure the workplace does not move during the etching phase.

I designed a variety of these and they can be purchased on my Etsy shop if you would like any. Every purchase helps fund my next project here on DIY Machines.

The 'Grow Paradise' logo was a coloured JPEG image which Luban was more capable at processing in order to recognise the outlines of the logo.

Time to laser with 10W module: 7mins

Time to lapse with 1.6W module: 43mins

Speed improvement of over 600%

Birthday present artwork

This was cut from two separate sheets of 4mm thick Birch plywood. The backer was first etched with the text along with a faint guideline of where the letters where to be glued to ensure they were properly spaced and positioned. This was then cut out from a slightly larger sheet ensuring it was true in size and would match that of the darker frame.

The top layer consists of a wooden frame and the letters making up the title. These were painted with a wash of darkening wood stain. Only one coat was used to help insure that the natural grain of the wood was still visible.

Time to laser with 10W module: 38mins. Time to laser with 1.6W module: 2hr 55min. Speed improvement of 500%

Software

I have been using it for over a year now for all my projects except for the most advanced CNC routing ones which I program from inside Fusion 360.

One criticism of the software is that its path planning is clearly far from optimal which needlessly increases the run time of each program - I hope they can send some time to spend improving this. As the 10w laser module is absolutely quicker at cutting and engraving, but the long winded moves back and fourth between each ‘zap’ unnecessarily wastes time. It's already fast but could be even faster.

Where to buy:

Amazon: https://geni.us/Snapmaker2-3in1
Snapmaker direct: https://snapmaker.com/snapmaker-10w-laser-module

Elegoo Saturn 2 8k Resin Printer Review

Sat, 11 Jun 2022 16:40:42 GMT

Elegoo Saturn 2 - 10" 8k Resin Printer

A large scale, fast paced, and capable 3D resin printer from Elegoo. Featuring an increased resolution, build volume, UV light source, air filtration, and more over its predecessor. It's a worthwhile iteration in my opinion.

Pros:

Very large build volume (43% larger than Mk1)
Increase in resolution
Hardened 10" screen less susceptible to damage
Air purification included and the option to vent

Cons:

Still lets some odour escape into the room
You'll need more resin (because you'll be printing more!)

Where to buy:

Amazon:
Elegoo direct: https://www.elegoo.com/collections/saturn-series/products/elegoo-saturn-2-8k-10-lcd-3d-printer-pre-order

What is it?

The Saturn line of 3D resin printers from Elegoo represent their line consumer focused larger scale liquid printers. Though this is the Elegoo Saturn '2 ' it is technically the third model in the line up after the original 'Saturn' (June 2020) followed by the 'Saturn S' in December 2021.

Resin LCD printers reproduce 3D models by curing a single layer of resin onto the underside of a submerged build plate. Each additional layer is fused on to the previous with a UV light as the platform rises out of the tank of liquid resin.

Resin printers are ideal for highly detailed models as their layer heights are much smaller than a traditional FDM printer, to the point the layer lines are no longer visible under casual inspection. The trade of is that until cured with exposure to UV light, the not super friendly for you or the environment resin can be hazardous, though if the prints and waste byproducts are treated properly this is not a problem. Further more, more friendly and easier to work with resins are being rapidly developed and put out into the market by both Elegoo and other manufacturers.

A recent example this is the trend towards water washable resins (of which Elegoo produce several types) as opposed to the need to work with 95% alcohol to wash the models and equipment after use. Though once the water has been in contact with resin it does need to be treated before disposal. Curing the resin suspended in it in sunlight for several hours removes the chemical hazard. Then you can simply filter the out the cured plastic and dispose of the water though your standard household drainage. Not requiring alcohol also saves the cost of purchasing it and the safety requirements of storing it.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The build volume is 219 x 123 x 250mm which is a 43% increase on the earlier model made possible by the new 10" screen.

This screen has received a lot of upgrades, not only in physical size but the increased resolution of 7680 x 4320px out paces the increase in size resulting in even finer details than before.

Reworking of the UV light system leaves us with a capable 64 UV lights working in perfect tandem thanks to the use of a custom fresnel styled lens system - the same lens technology used for lighthouses.

The highly toughened glass protecting the screen is a welcome addition. I know I have (and can't be the only one to) scratched the screen when removing rogue resin on previous printers. This not something you want to happen. :/

Shipping and Packing

I feel like a broken record saying this now, but every package I get from Elegoo is extremely well packed. This one was opened by UK customs en route and they didn't re-pack it properly (after removing the carbon filters for some reason??). Though despite this, the remaining packaging still did an excellent job of ensuring the printer made it to me undamaged. (Click for full images).

There is also a small box at the base of the printer which includes a selection of well packed accessories...

What else is included?

With the exception of some resin to print with and some alcohol to clean the print with after printing, everything else you will need for your first prints are included. Elegoo and other manufacturers omit the two mentioned liquids as they complicate shipping when bundled in with the electronic device. Here is what they have included with the printer for you:

Protective face mask
USB Disk (preloaded with demo print, electronic copy of user manual and slicing software)
Printed setup and user manual

A few pairs of disposable gloves
A plastic scraper
A stainless steel scraper
Allen keys
Flush cutters (for removing supports)

Some resin filter funnels
Spare screws and bolts
Active air filtration unit
Power supply

I would also recommend treating yourself to some protective eye wear if you don't already have some. I don't know about you, but I'm already on my last pair of eyes so want to take good care of them.

Assembly

There is very little if anything required in the way of assembly. The attaching of the build plate is done whilst levelling the machine and the resin vat doesn't count as you take on and off during regular use.

Instruction manual

The instructions are swift and concise but don't overlook anything in helping you to get your very first print from your new resin printer. The included demo model on the USB stick is the Chess Castle with internal stairs.

First prints and impressions

I've commented before in the review for the Elegoo Mars 3 about my preference towards the updated angular styling of the case as opposed to the simple boxes of earlier models. Another benefit I've found on this larger printer is these added angles and details make the enclosure much more rigid - perhaps this was their original intention which I had overlooked on the smaller case of the Mars 3?

Overall it's a smart looking machine, the power port is on the rear, USB connection on the right and power button on the front. There is no ethernet port on this model.

I do find the styling on the front around the screen to be reminiscent of Guardians of the Galaxy design language. You can let me know what you think in the comments.

(Click on the below images to see larger copies.)

Levelling the print bed

The process for levelling the print bed and setting the ideal first layer height have not changed much over the generations of Elegoo resin printers. Though, as it is a trivial task, there is not much need for it to either.

It boils down to attaching the print platform to the machine and loosening the two bolts which allow you to then adjust its pitch, roll and rotation - aka, it becomes wobbly. ��

After removing the resin tank and placing the included levelling card over the screen the machine lowers the printing platform until it triggers a sensor to indicate it is at the end of its travel. You can then re-tighten the two bolts with the included Allen key whilst using your other hand to hold the platform in position over the screen. You can then tug the levelling card to check you feel resistance whilst still being able to remove the card without excessive force.

That's it. Levelling done.

Now that we are discussing the print platform I also felt it would be ideal to show you the difference in size between the most current mainstream Elegoo resin printers; the Saturn 2 which we are reviewing now and the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.

As you can see it provides a much larger printing area allowing either larger single piece prints or more designs printed in less time. The max height for both are 160mm for the Mars 2 Pro and 250mm for the Saturn 2!

Adding resin and printing

The first print I started was the included rook torture test. As this was already on the memory stick I poured some of Elegoo's own Grey 'ABS-like' resin into the tank (after donning on some gloves) up to just below the max fill line after shaking the contents of the bottle carefully. After navigating to the print on the LCD display I selected it, pressed print and away it went.

Whilst printing the rooks (or anything else for that matter) you're shown the the time spent printing so far, estimated print time remaining, and current layer height on the display. If you press the pause button during printing the build plate is lifted out of the vat of resin so you can check on it's progress and adhesion.

I made three consecutive prints on the printer and all three worked flawlessly back-to-back.

After the print has completed the prints can be left to drip back into the resin tray for a short while. They then need further cleaning (with alcohol in the case of this resin) and then curing. I used an automated alcohol bath which stirs the alcohol into a flurry to wash the parts before moving it into a UV light chamber for a few minutes to accelerate the curing.

Before I had the wash and cure stations I would wash the parts with alcohol and a toothbrush then leave outside in the sun for a couple of days to cure whilst submerged in water.

I have put photos of the three prints I have done in very high resolution for you to judge for yourself before I give you my own opinion. (They can be clicked on to be enlarged so you can really judge them).

I think they look really good, there is some drooping on a couple of unsupported ledges - they don't call it a torture test for nothing. But the crispness of the corners and indents is an improvement over older resin printers I've tested. I decided to print another print - the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris. The model is detailed and I have some which I have printed on some older Elegoo resin printers so it should make for a good comparison. It's also an ideal comparison for anyone who wants to know if it's worth making the upgrade. (Again click to see larger images).

Elegoo Saturn 2 8k test prints of Cathédrale Notre-Dame:

Printed with default profile, washed and cured with Elegoo Mercury X bundle

Elegoo Mars 3 ULTRA test prints of Cathédrale Notre-Dame:

Printed with default profile, washed and cured with Elegoo Mercury X bundle

Elegoo Mars 2 test print of Cathédrale Notre-Dame:

Printed with default profile, washed and cured by hand (and a little dusty - sorry)

Here are some close ups of the details from the Saturn 2 8k 10" printer:

Software

On the included USB stick (and available as a download) is the basic/free version Chitubox. A capable slicer designed for resin printers. It is a popular choice so their is plenty of support and help available if the interface is daunting to you. A quick search in Youtube will answer most questions.

To be honest, I use very few of its features. My workflow boils down to importing the STL model, orientating it to minimise the amount of supports required on the seen surfaces, adding the required supports and then exporting and printing. Elegoo do include a crash course guide for you within the instructions which will cover these basics.

The software does receive regular updates from Chitubox and it will check and notify you if any are available. If you want to have access to more advanced features and granular control you can consider upgrading to the Pro version for about $169 USD a year at the time of writing this review.

Final thoughts

There are plenty more features to touch on such as the new and included activated carbon filter system. It sits within the build chamber and helps to reduce the amount of fumes that escapes the printers enclosure. Replacement filters are readily available should you need them in the future. It's not perfect, but it does help. There is also a removable cover on the back of the case for you to connect an extraction fan and exhaust the fumes straight of the room entirely if you wish to.

This is my third resin resin printer all of which have been Elegoo models. The pace of innovation and refinement continues to impress me. They seem to have a relentless drive to deliver better performing machines at a fair price point. As for their customer service, it had been faultless and prompt (except when they have been away celebrating a Chinese holiday). But during that time I turned to their extensive community online and received valuable help from them - another advantage of having such a popular model.

I'm sure this is going to be another success for Elegoo and I feel that if you already have the original Saturn and are undecided about upgrading - I would say this is worthy. It feel's like more of a workhorse with features geared towards reliability print-after-print (toughened glass on screen, improved FEP film, air filtration, revised UV distribution system to name but a few).

If you have become accustomed to using ethernet or WiFi to manage a group of printers then this is not an option with the Saturn 2. For most people this will not come into play when looking at their desired feature list. I'm looking forward to creating larger projects with this - it's time I learnt how to paint models with more skill!

Where to buy:

Amazon: Not yet available on Amazon
Elegoo direct: https://www.elegoo.com/collections/saturn-series/products/elegoo-saturn-2-8k-10-lcd-3d-printer-pre-order

Technical Details:

Giant Modular Seven Segment Display

Sun, 05 Jun 2022 13:09:35 GMT

How to build a super-sized expandable Seven Segment Display

For a recent project that I was working on I needed a large seven segment display. I could find some ready made one about two or three inches tall - but I needed bigger. For that reason I set about designing my own and have documented it here so you can use the display as a basis for your projects.

It has been designed in a modular way using acrylic sheets and 3d printed components for each character on the display, you can one or more of these depending on the display requirements. These are then held together using a simple to make wooden frame.

I created and published code for both an Arduino (Uno or Nano) or Wemos D1 Mini (ESP8266) that will turn the display into a giant two digit lap timer. The optional PCB I have designed for the project also provides routing of power to the programmable LED strips and a connection point for a 315mhz radio receiver. This let's it receive a signal from a four button garage door like key fob and a react to it.

Mine was turned into a lap timer for the local swimming pool so the buttons either reset the counter or trigger a three stage countdown sequence using colours before starting the timer.

I’ll share with you how I made it - it is rather simple. As always there is a complete list of parts and links to amazon down below this video, and included some helpful tips and an FAQ here on my site. Enjoy.

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

WS2812B LEDS 60/m (1 Meter required per digit): https://geni.us/5mWS2812B60m

A microcontroller, either

Elegoo Arduino Nano (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3

Wemos D1 Mini and LLC for Wifi and IoT Control (x1): https://geni.us/wemosD1
And Logic Level Shifter (74AHCT125): https://geni.us/74AHCT125-LLS

Power supply 5v (x1): https://geni.us/5vPowerSupply3A (Budget at least 1.5amps per digit, 3.6 amps if your going to turn them all on bright white simultaneously).
Barrel Connector (x1): https://geni.us/HighAmpDCBarrel
Plenty of M3x6 bolts: https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
5mm Solid Acrylic: https://geni.us/SolidAcrylicSheets5mm
3mm Semi-translucent/Frosted Acrylic: https://geni.us/OpalFrostedA4Acrylic
3D Printer Filament: https://www.3djake.uk

To connect the electronics either:

Projects PCB from PCBWay: https://geni.us/Giant7SegPCB
Wago style connectors or similar: https://geni.us/Wago221

Optional radio control add-on:

Radio Receiver: https://geni.us/315mhzReceiverMoment
Radio transmitter fob: https://geni.us/315mhzTransmitter-4b

Some wood for the frame. I used four pieces of pine 20x68x436mm (x2) and 20x68x381mm (x2)
To work out the wood lengths for different thickness of wood please take a look at the cheat sheet I made for you. You'll find them further down this page.

Glue (I used Wood glue and Gorilla Glue): https://geni.us/Gorilla-Glue

Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://www.printables.com/model/220012-giant-modular-7-segment-display

Code:

Here I will include links to code created for the display, both by me and others:

60 Second Lap Timer with RF remote controller (DIY Machines): https://github.com/DIY-Machines/Giant-Modular-7-Segment-Display

If you would like to see your code linked to here then please let me know in the comments below or on the Discord server for this project.

Calculating Wood Cutting Lengths:

I have created this PDF guide which you can download to help you calculate what lengths to cut your wood depending on the number of characters in your display and the thickness of the wood.

Download the free guide by pressing the button below:

Acrylic Cutting Files:

If you are cutting your acrylic using hand tools (routers or saws) then you can print the below PDF and use it to copy the markings of the cutouts onto your sheet of acrylic before cutting it.

I've also included the CNC files for if you have access to a CNC router or similar.

Wiring Diagram - Non PCB:

This is a diagram showing you how to connect either an Arduino Nano / Uno or Wemos D1 Mini to your display without a PCB. This wiring will work with the code I have written in the CODE section above.

Community:

Discord sever for project:

Comments

Elegoo Neptune 3 Review

Thu, 26 May 2022 07:41:22 GMT

Elegoo Neptune 3 FDM 3D Printer

Another impressively budget friendly FDM printer from Elegoo with upgrades and new features all punching way above its price point.

Pros:

Very budget friendly price
Automatic bed levelling via Resistance Strain Gauge
Filament sensor for clogs and run outs
Near silent stepper motor drivers
Less then 10 minutes to set-up

Cons:

No estimated print time remaining shown on display
Print head fan is still the noisiest (but effective) component

Where to buy:

Elegoo: https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-neptune-3-fdm-3d-printer

What is it?

The new Elegoo Neptune 3 is a Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D printer. FDM printers create the 3D parts by depositing one layer of hot plastic at a time on top of the previous which is fused together by the temperature of the plastic. Usually I would compare this printer against its rivals such as Creality - but as I have previously owned its predecessor (the aptly named Neptune 2), I believe it would be best to compare them and find out if it is time you upgraded from your Neptune 2 or made your first jump into FDM printing with Elegoo.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The build volume is 220 x 220 x 280mm - an increase of 30mm in height over the Neptune 2. This is also a fairly standard build volume so you should be able to print most models you find online without difficulty.

The machines Bowden style extrude r (as opposed to direct drive) will make the printing of flexible materials more difficult, and any filament breakages which occur inside the Bowden tube are trickier to remove. However the dual geared metal extruder drive does keep an excellent grip on the filament.

The included removable print bed is magnetic now and has a Prusa like PEI textured finish. There is also Elegoo's RSG auto levelling system which I'll go into more detail about later.

Shipping and Packing

As I've come to expect from Elegoo, everything was very well packaged. When the parcel arrived it had clearly taken an impact to one of the corners. Once opened I could see the generous amounts of foam padding had thankfully done its job and protected the contents from the couriers bump without issue.

(Click below to see larger images)

The components which make up the printer are nested across several layers, each surrounded by plenty of foam/polystyrene. The penultimate layer of foam which surrounds the vertical Z-axis is split so that it can be 'peeled' away from the Z-axis which then allows you to remove the base assembly and Z-axis simultaneously. You need to do this as the printer ships with 95% of the electrical wiring already connected for you. Very helpful of Elegoo.

What else is included?

Besides the 3D printer itself Elegoo also include a generous selection of tools and accessories in the box, everything a beginner would need to start in their adventure in 3D printing:

5m of PLA filament
8GB Micro SD card
USB Micro SD card reader
Spare 0.4mm nozzle (x2)
Spare PTFE tubes

USB cable
Screwdrivers
Flush cutters
Spare cable zip ties
Acupuncture needle

Set of Allen keys
Two spanners
Stainless steel scraper (for removing prints)
Carry handle

This is an increase in the amount of accessories the earlier Neptune 2 included. Though I would buy yourself an additional roll of 1.75mm filament as you'll very quickly get through the 5m sample included.

Most of the tools were not needed whilst assembling the printer, they have been provided to help with simple maintenance tasks as you clock up the the hours, days, and weeks of printing time with this 3D Printer.

Assembly

The Elegoo Neptune 3 ships in even less parts than the Neptune 2. Unlike the earlier version there is no need to tension belts or assemble gantries (the belts are pretensioned in the factory but instructions are provided on how to check and tweak them if required - mine were fine as they arrived).

The vast majority of the electrical connections have also already been made and only eight bolts are required for assembly.

Very briefly this requires:

Attaching the vertical axis to the base (four bolts - easiest done with printer on its left).
Attaching the power supply to the frame (two bolts).
Attach the handle (last two bolts).
Attach the filament holder (already has two bolts pre-installed).
Connect the power supply, Z-axis stepper and Z-axis sensor (all involve joining simple connectors together with a push fit).

Everything felt solid once assembled. No wobbles or squeaks. It's an assembly process my Grandma could have followed without my need to intervene.

Instruction manual

The instructions themselves are brief but adequate, relying on very little language similar to an Ikea instruction booklet. The odd miss-translation is to be expected but does not cause any confusion. You can also download a copy of the instructions to see for yourself:

Video Assembly Guide

If you pop the Micro SD card into your computer you'll find that (For the first time which I have noticed) Elegoo have included a very helpful video covering the assembly of the printer. The really are going the extra mile to ensure you succeed with your new machine.

You will also find some model for 3D printing (both pre-sliced GCODE and STLs), a digital copy of the written instructions and Elegoo's implementation of the slicing software Cura.

First prints and impressions

Once assembled there are a few steps left before it starts magically building your first 3D print layer-by-layer:

No more bed levelling!

The Neptune 2 required manual turning of some under-slung slightly comical giant geared knobs to level the print bed which you then manually verified at 5 points across the print bed. It worked, but was a little tedious.

The Neptune 3 on the other hand has made enormous improvements to this. Gone are the four manually turned adjusters in favour for Elegoo's new Resistance Strain Gauge (RSG) levelling system.

The new RSG system utilises a pressure sensor on the print head itself to probe 16 points across the printing surface and automatically calculate and apply corrections whilst printing. Once the system has calculated any unevenness of the print surface you only need to slide a sheet of paper under the nozzle and set the appropriate gap to be left whilst printing the first layer.

So far for me, Elegoo's RSG auto-levelling has worked well every time. It is to my knowledge the first time this system has been available on a printer at this price point.

Loading the filament and printing

This has not changed massively since the Neptune 2 with the exception of the system now utilising a twin geared feeding mechanism. The loading of the filament went without a hitch once I realised you could squeeze open the path between the extruder gears so that you could manually insert the filament through the filament sensor (which lights blue the moment it detects the presence of filament) and feed it all the way through the bowden tube until it is stopped by the cold printing nozzle. Before this I was using the controls on the screen to feed it through electronically which was slower.New Paragraph

Just as I do with every printer I test, I started the first print which I found on the included Micro SD card. Elegoo have included a very handy USB Micro SD card reader in the box - which was very useful for me as my Apple laptop does not (to my continued frustration) include an inbuilt SD card reader. Thank you again Elegoo.

As I started to interact more with the detachable touchscreen controller I became quickly impressed with not only its sensitivity to my touch but also the speed at which it processed my requests. It was very responsive, a pleasant departure from the what now feels rather rudimentary and slow control system of my Prusa i3 Mk3s.

This touchscreen is now 4.3 inches in size and detachable, this is an upgrade on the earlier models 3.5 inch screen fixed to the base.

It does feel somewhat inspired by Snapmaker's implementation of a touchscreen - but I'm not complaining, it works well her just us it does on the Snapmaker.

As mentioned this is the included model found on the micro SD card using the supplied sample of white PLA filament. I have taken some high resolution images which can be enlarged for your interrogation by clicking the photos below.

The total print time was about 1hr and 13mins. The first layer went down beautifully and there were no problems with adhesion. Once the print bed had cooled the model detached itself automatically. I could have probably removed it from the platform with a deep breath and a straw if I had wanted to. ��

Considering the price - I am extremely impressed with the print quality and ease of use. The textured PEI magnetic print sheet worked well, and if the model had remained stubbornly stuck to the sheet after cooling I could have just popped the sheet of and flexed it a couple of times to remove the print. The magnetic fixing system is also a welcome upgrade over the slightly clunkier bulldog clips of its former model. I always worried that the clips would get caught on something as the printer moved the platform back and fourth.

Here are some further high resolution photos of some of the classic 'torture tests' which to be honest show little issues with the printer in its factory stock configuration. Nothing has been dialled in or refined yet. Both these torture tests were slice with Prusaslicer (my preferred slicing software).

Noise Levels

As 3D printers continue to fall in price and complexity they are finding their way into more homes. At the moment, in my opinion, this makes the noise levels one of the biggest battles for manufacturers at the moment as not everyone has space to keep their printer and it's whirring and whinning away from their day-to-day lives.

Elegoo proudly claim a noise level below 50dBA. I'm not certain at what distance they measured that from the machine but in my rudimentary iPhone app based test I registered an average of 56.1dBA (30cm away from the machine). Most of this is coming from the dual cooling fans on the print head. I could not hear a whisper from the stepper motors.

This is the noise level of a 'Quiet Home' according to the app and I would agree. This would not be any nuisance if left running in an adjacent room. With the door shut you might not even know if it was still running.

Software - Cura

Elegoo include a customised copy of Cura on the Micro SD card. It is based on the older Cura 4 - version 5 has been released. I found the Windows version but had to download the Mac version for free from Elegoo website: https://www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support

On the SD card is a detailed introduction to using Cura and some advice on what retraction, infill, perimeters, supports etc. are including how to use them in Cura and some advice on knowing when you might want to adjust them from their default values pre-set by Elegoo.

There are plenty of instructional videos on the internet for using Cura, it is a popular slicing software package also used by the likes of Ultimaker so I will not be going into details about Cura here.

If you're not a fan of Cura, you are also free to use other slicing software such as the open source PrusaSlicer. I can also recommend following this guide for importing some Elegoo FDM profiles for your machine into PrusaSlicer: https://github.com/andrewsuzuki/prusaslicer-elegoo-profiles

Technical Details:

Have any questions or comments?

WeatherBot - 3D Printable Weather Forecasting Theatre

Tue, 28 Dec 2021 16:56:38 GMT

How to build your own Weather Forecasting Theatre with ESP32

Meet WeatherBot, my WiFi connected weather forecasting machine. WeatherBot retrieves a local forecast from OpenWeatherMaps and then shows you tomorrows weather with a motorised mini diorama.

The additional e-ink display provides a more precise insight into both today and tomorrows weather patterns. I’ll show you step by step how to make your own.

I’ll share with you how I made the project and some more about how it works in the video above.

As always there is a complete list of parts and links to Amazon / Aliexpress down further below. You will also find a helpful tips, software installation instructions and an FAQ here on my site. Enjoy.

Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/107501-weatherbot-3d-printable-weather-forecasting-theatr

Code for WeatherBot project: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/WeatherBot

Instructions for programming are further down this page.

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

Waveshare 2.9” E-ink Display (296x128): https://geni.us/E-inkDisplay1
Electrical wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
ESP32 (x1): https://geni.us/ESP32
Limit Switches (x4): https://geni.us/ContactSwitch
Micro continuous / 360 degree rotation servos (x4): https://geni.us/FS90R
PCB: - https://geni.us/GeoLeafPCB
USB cable (for uploading code and powering project): https://geni.us/MicroUSBCable
Some nuts and bolts (detailed list below) https://geni.us/M2-5BoltKit
90 Degree / Corner Header Pins: https://geni.us/90DegreeHeaderPins
Filament for 3D printing: www.3djake.com
3mm thick wood for laser cut scene discs (x4 A4 size): https://geni.us/3mmPlywoo
Projects PCB: https://geni.us/WeatherBotPCB

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:

M2.5x14 Bolts (x12)
M2.5x8 Bolts (x7)
M2.5 Nuts (x10)

Wiring Diagram:

Without PCB:

With PCB:

Programming your WeatherBot

The code for the project can be downloaded from GitHub: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/WeatherBot

I am finishing writing out the full instructions for this - it should be completed by 10th January 2022. Thank you for your patience.

There is a few changes you will need to make to the code downloaded from GitHub before uploading it to your WeatherBot. I'll guide you through them now step-by-step. This involves:

Downloading Arduino IDE
Adding an additional board manager and installing ESP32 boards
Installing required libraries in the Arduino IDE
Creating your own free account on OpenWeatherMaps
Retrieving your own personal API key
Entering your longitude and latitude
Setting your desired ranges for weather
Entering your own WiFi credentials

You may not need to complete all of the above steps - for example you may already have the Arduino IDE installed on your PC.

Downloading the Arduino IDE

The Arduino IDE is free software used for writing and uploading code to microcontroller boards. You can download it from the Arduino website here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/software

Download the appropriate version for your computer, either Windows, Linux or Mac and then follow the respective installers instructions.

Adding an additional Board Manager and Installing ESP32 Boards

Board managers allow us to add support for additional boards to the Arduino IDE. Before we can install the ESP32 boards we need to tell the Arduino IDE where it can find and download additional software.

On a Windows computer head to File > Preferences and on a Mac go to Arduino > Preferences.
In the window that opens we need to add https://dl.espressif.com/dl/package_esp32_index.json into the box for 'Additional Board Manager URLs. If it's their already you won't need to add it a second time. If their is a different URL there already then simply add a coma and then the URL we need.

Now that our IDE knows where to fetch a list of new boards we can open the Board Manager itself and install the ESP32 board.

On both Wi ndows and Mac open the Board Manager by going to Tools > Board > Boards Manager .

Seach for 'ESP32'. Select the ESP32 by Espressif System options and press its install button.

That's the ESP32 boards successfully added to your Arduino IDE. Next up, installing libraries....

Installing required libraries

Libraries are useful collections of pre-existing code which can quickly and easily add additional functionality to your programmes. There are a few which I have chosen to help develop this project. They are:

Arduino_JSON by Arduino
Adafruit GFX by Adafruit
GxEPD2 by Jean-Marc Zingg
ESP32Servo by Kevin Harrington and John K. Bennett

To install a library we need to head to

Tools > Manage libraries .

From this pop-up window we can use the search to find and install each of the above libraries. Search for their respective names in the box at the top and then press ' Install ' in a similar fashion to what we did whilst installing the Boards during the previous step.

Once done you can close the window.

Download and open the projects code in the Arduino IDE

The code for this project is hosted on GitHub. Head to the project repository: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/WeatherBot

From the project page you click 'Code' and then 'Download Zip' to download the code to your computer. Open the folder which was download, followed by the 'WeatherBot' folder and then open the file ' WeatherBot.ino ' in the Arduino IDE. This should also pull in the other files as tabs along the top of the IDE.

Create your own free OpenWeatherMaps account

Head on over to the sign up page at OpenWeatherMap and create yourself a free account: https://home.openweathermap.org/users/sign_up

Create your unique API key for the project

Once your account has been created you can log in to the OpenWeatherMap site again, click on your username in the top right and then 'My API Keys'

Type a name for the key which we are about to generate into the box on the right and then press 'Generate'. I chose to call my WeatherBot. You should then take a note of the long Key it has generated for you. We will be adding this into the code in a few more steps before uploading it to your machine.

Finding your Longitude and Latitude

We let OpenWeatherMap know where we want to lookup a weather forecast for by passing them a longitude and attitude when we request the data. Head over to https://www.distancesfrom.com/Latitude-Longitude.aspx and use the tool on the page to find the longitude and attitude for the location whos weather you would like to monitor on your WeatherBot.

It does not need to be where the WeatherBot itself is going to be. Note the location data down along with the API key from earlier.

Updating the code

The first part we can update is the SSID and Wifi password. This should be for the wireless network the WeatherBot will be connecting to in order to retrieve weather updates from the internet.

Lines #22 and #23 have placeholders where you should enter your Wifi credentials in place of "YOUR-SSID" and "YOUR-WIFI-PASSWORD". The speech marks ("") should remain around your own SSID and Password.

We make the weather data request by calling a URL with our specific API key, longitude, and latitude in it. We also include our unique API key which authorises or request and allows them to track how many requests we are making and how quickly.

At the time of writing this they currently allow 60 calls/minute with a maximum of 1,000,000 calls/month. More than frequent enough for our projects need.

Line #27 is where we store this URL / server path. The structure of it looks like:

http://api.openweathermap.org/data/2.5/onecall?lat={latitude}&lon=-{longitude}&units=metric&exclude=minutely&appid={Your-API-Key}

You need to replace the {latitude}, {longitude} and {Your-API-Key} sections with the values you noted down earlier. For example if mine were:

API Key = f6dd3a936c3c156919f2364063685a9a
Longitude = -2.4412
Latitude = 50.7112

Then my URL / server path on line #27 would like this (all as one line):

http://api.openweathermap.org/data/2.5/onecall?lat=50.7112&lon=--2.4412&units=metric&exclude=minutely&appid=f6dd3a936c3c156919f2364063685a9a

Further down the code for the project their is a section which contains eight constant integers (lines #32 through to #45 - shown below) which determine how the WeatherBot interprets the weather and translates it to the pictorial form shown with the scene discs.

I've set the ranges based on how I feel with the weather in the UK, but this will likely need tweaking based on where you are based and how you personally find the weather. For example, 20°C is hot weather in my opinion here in the UK but elsewhere (such as Orlando, USA) 26°C may be more suitable.

The comments against each line in the code will give you guidance as to the unit of measurement used.

Uploading the Code to the ESP32

We can now connect our computer to the USB cable already connected to the ESP32 module. Then in the Arduino IDE select port and board type.

At the time of designing the WeatherBot and writing this tutorial there is a bug in the way the code is compiled for the ESP32 which prevents the e-ink display from functioning as intended. We can work around this by selecting the board type LOLIN D32.

You can then compile and upload the code to your WeatherBot. Don't forget to press the physical 'BOOT' button on the project itself whilst the Arduino IDE tries to connect after compiling the code.

FAQ

Discord sever for project: https://discord.gg/vwb2VHrGVj

Comments

Snapmaker 2.0 A350T 3-in-1 Review

Wed, 24 Nov 2021 21:27:53 GMT

Snapmaker 2.0 A350T 3-in-1

A great tool with an impressive ability to change between being a 3D printer, CNC router, or laser engraver/cutter within the confines of a single machines footprint.

Pros:

Very sturdy construction
Compact footprint especially as it's three tools in one
Being able to work with a variety of materials
Everything including sample materials, tools and software included

Cons:

It takes a little time and a lot of bolts to switch between modes
Latest version of Luban (4) is still new and has just a few kinks that need working out

Where to buy:

Amazon: https://geni.us/Snapmaker2-3in1
Snapmaker direct: https://bit.ly/3rDsALq

What is it?

The Snapmaker 2.0 is the second incarnation of the Snapmaker. The original Snapmaker started as a Kickstarter campaign back in 2017 and was quickly backed by more than 5,000 people. Five years later and standing on the success of this, they now produce the Snapmaker 2.0 in three sizes (A150, A250, and A350) along with a growing catalogue of add ons such as the rotary module and a feature rich enclosure, all serving to further augment the machines abilities.

As of late 2021, the Snapmaker 2.0 received a few very welcome and worthwhile upgrades. This includes:

A much quieter power supply which can very its fan speed depending on load.
Upgraded motor driver chips to the Trinamic TMC2209 with an emphasis on noise reduction from stepper motors.
Linear modules now feature a 20mm lead screw (instead of 8mm) resulting in quicker movement thus reducing time to complete a task.

Most of the upgrades focused on making the machine considerably quieter than the stock 2.0. These revised machines are denoted with a 'T' after their names. I.e. A350T / A250T.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The build volume of the A350T is 320 x 330 x 350mm, larger than many mainstream 3D printers. Though slower print times can be expected.

The laser module boasts a 1600mW laser (with a 10W laser optional upgrade recently released) and an integrated camera which provides several useful features which we dive into later, whilst t he CNC module now features the more common ER11 collet which is a welcome addition.

This is all controlled either via their own freely available Luban software either over Wifi or the integrated USB port. On device control is through the 5" Smart touchscreen which is powered by Android OS.

We will dive into the each feature in greater detail after looking at the setup process next.

Shipping and Packing

I've been fortunate enough to receive many machines to test or review over the last few years and have seen a variety of packaging design and quality. The Snapmaker, I have to say, has been the most well packed device yet. The boxes are high quality including a protective sleeve added during shipping. The parts inside are then packaged into well organised and labelled boxes of their own, each featuring the appropriate level of packing foam.

Inside these the parts are further organised in labelled bags. A rare treat is the fact that once you are done with the packaging, it makes for some great cardboard to practice the use of the Laser module on. :)

All in all there is a great deal of well organised parts. The instruction manual indicates which box and bag you'll find each part in as you assemble the Snapmaker. This certainly helped to keep my work area arranged well whilst assembling the machine.

What else is included?

A small toolbox is included with a very well stocked selection of all the tools possibly required to assemble the machine and maintain it during it's years of service. Each of the tools are well made (I think they have been custom designed like the rest of the machine looking at the style and material choices). I have to say that the impression so far is that you really do get everything you'll need. I know the machine is at a higher price point but no part of the experience leaves me sour about that yet.

Laser safety glasses
CNC safety glasses
PLA Filment
USB Disk
Printed setup and user manual
Wrench (17mm and 14mm)

CNC sample material
Laser sample material
Tweezers
Diagonal flush cutters
Two CNC bits (Flat and ball end)
Calibration card

Palette Knife
Screwdriver with multiple tips stored inside the handle
Hot end kit
ER11 Collet and nut
Wiping cloth

Snapmaker also include a sample pack of various materials so you can get working straight away with your new mini-factory such as wood sheets, acrylic sheets, and a roll of PLA plastic. Don't forget that you can also repurpose the aforementioned cardboard packaging with your laser module whilst you get to grips with it.

Assembly

There is a fair amount of assembly required for the A350T, but it is not difficult. You'll need to allow several hours and perhaps two to three cups of tea. A few of the steps were easier with the help of a second pair of hands, though manageable on your own if you're careful.

One thing that seemed to show little pre-consideration was the arranging of wires on the underside of the Snapmaker A350T. You can see in the second photo above that on the top surface of the platform everything appears tidy and well organised, the third image reveals the snake pit of wires on the underside.

Though it is not visible once complete, I just feel that compared to everything else which seems so solid and thoughtfully designed, the wiring for the underside was an afterthought if not forgotten about altogether. I fear that over time a cable will become pinched and fail, or the if I need to move the Snapmaker to another location I run the risk of snagging a dangling cable and damaging the machine.

Hopefully neither will come true but if I had to choose a weak point of the design - this would immediately spring to mind.

Once the machine's main framework is assembled there are just a few steps left to follow to prepare it for use. These last steps depend on wether you want to use the 3D Printing, CNC, or Laser module. To change between the different modes you undo the last few steps to revert the machine back to the common basic frame and then complete the last few steps for the other tool type. This usually involves attaching the tool head itself to the gantry and equipping the work platform with the correct bed system for the process at hand.

Instruction manual

The instructions are very detailed but spread out across many pages. This space coupled with high quality illustrations made it easy to follow the various stages of the assembly. Sadly there is a lack of the often humorous 'Chinglish', but the clarity of concise English is refreshing.
You can download a copy of the instructions to see for yourself if you would like, I've put a link to it adjacent for you. There are also numerous Youtube videos available.

Using the laser module

Naturally I went for the Laser module first, as I have plenty of experience of 3D printers and well, it's a Laser - who wouldn't?

It took me around 5 minutes to fit the head to the gantry using four bolts and then. single cable to connect it to the electrical hub at the side of the machine.

Preparing to use the Laser

When you power on the machine after connecting the Laser Module the Snapmaker auto-detects it and presents you with some Safety Instructions. This is well worth a read and actually following. A lot of the dangerous energy from the module is at a wavelength you can't see - and I don't know about you, but I'm already on my last pair of eyeballs. That being said, don't fear it, respect it and you'll have a great time finding all sorts of uses for it.

The screen will then guide you through how to correctly secure material to the platform, enter the height of the material and then calibrate the laser. This calibration step burns a series of lines on the surface of wood (supplied with the Snapmaker) and then the camera model proceeds to evaluate the best setting automatically. If it fails to make a decision then the setup wizard will fall back to your judgement of which of the test lines appear the most focused.

There is also a one-time wizard to calibrate the camera which is later used in Snapmaker Luba software to help the placement of artwork onto materials placed on the machine platform.

All of the above only takes moments, thanks to the clear instructions on the machines screen which are echoed in the instruction manual for reference later if required.

The first Laser Project

For my first laser made project I opted to use the included wood sample to create a small wooden gift box. Snapmaker's Luban software handily includes some example projects which are suitable for the included selection of sample materials. I'll go into more depth in regards to Luban later in the review.

After you have saved the file onto the USB drive and loaded it onto the Snapmaker you'll next need to show the machine where the 'origin' of your material is. The origin is the starting point from which Toolpaths movements begin from and is defined in the Luban software when saving the program. As I had set the origin in the top right I used the onscreen controls to send the laser head towards the top left of the wooden sheet. Once there you press 'Run Boundary' which will send the toolhead on an outline of the outermost edges of your program, this helps to ensure that you don't exceed the material size of run the risk of damaging the fixing points. Once you're happy that the area of the artwork is where you would like it you press 'Start'.

I kept a close eye (not too close) on the machine for its first job. It buzzed and whirred whilst it danced over the material, making several passes to cut through the wood. Once complete there was a burnt smell in the air despite having the windows open. (I now run the machine inside the Snapmaker enclosure which has an exhaust fan. This greatly reduces any traces of unpleasant odours.)

I took the sheet from the bed and the cut parts simply dropped out. I was expecting to need to pop them out with a little force but the Snapmaker successfully cut very well through the material. After a few seconds push fitting the parts together I was left feeling impressed with this very nifty little box.

With the confidence of the assembled box I immediately jumped back into Luban and loaded an SVG mandala file which I had downloaded from the internet. As I did not have enough wood sheets to hand for a layered project such as the mandala I turned to some cardboard. With my very little (but growing) experience of Luban and Snapmaker's ' Definitive guide to laser engraving and cutting ' to hand I fired the laser into life again and created this mandala. What a great use for all the cardboard the postie delivers.

The CNC Carving Module

The Snapmaker CNC module is one of the aspects of the machine which has been updated since the original version. This improved version of the CNC Carving module features the ability to cut faster with maintained precision and an ER11 collet. This last point, the collet, now makes it it easier to change the router bit and as it is a common standard, you can purchase machine bits from almost anywhere and there is a huge range of options to try. V-bits, tapered bits, end mills and more. If you're like me, these terms may seem alien to you at the moment - but after a couple of projects you'll be very quickly up-skilling your knowledge if you're new to CNC routing.

The module, much like the 3D printing and Laser modules, requires you to fit the tool head itself to the gantry with four bolts and a single electrical cable connecting it to the control centre.

The CNC process also gets its own purpose built base. This comes in the form of a large wooden 'sacrificial' board with a grid of markings for alignment and pre-threaded holes to attach clamps for securing the work material.

The board is deemed sacrificial as when you cut all the way through a piece of material you will also machine away some of this wooden baseboard. If you set the height of your material and cutting well then this only needs to be about a single millimetre or two. Judging by the rate I'm eating away at my baseboard it will be some time before a replacement is needed. I've already taken a look and they can be easily bought from Snapmaker for a sensible price or from a huge range of resellers so I don't see this as a problem.

The work material is held in place with some simple aluminium clamps. They look like skeletal arches with one end sat on the base board and the other on the workpiece. This is then pulled downward by a long bolt fitted into the baseboard (there are plenty of points you can do this) and a wing nut hand tightened on top.

Snapmaker include a sample piece of black acrylic and a suitable sample project - a mobile phone holder. Since I had the material and file already this is what I started with. After fitting the toolhead and powering on the machine I was greeted with a screen explaining some safety precautions and recommendations. I inserted the memory stick and loaded the file on the touchscreen.

At this point you need to find the origin of your work piece. This is more involved than the Laser module but nothing tricky. Briefly summarised you lower the CNC bit towards the material using the touchscreen until it just grips a piece of paper being slid between it and the work material. You can then save this Z axis (height) position before moving it towards the starting position of your job. I had selected centre the time so I guided it towards the centre and set this as the origin.

Before you can press 'Start' though, you'll want to ensure that non of your clamps are in within the tool paths of the program you are about to run. The sturdy clamps will certainly snap a small router bit if it collides, and worse still may happen with stronger bits.

To check this we can use the 'Run Boundary' feature again after we temporarily raise the head above the height of the clamps. If you're happy it doesn't look like it should bump into anything you can lower the head and I'd recommend checking again, once you're absolutley sure - it is time to press Start. All of this is explained both in the manual and in a handy series of instructional videos Snapmaker have created.

There is a fair amount of noise, very little from the machine itself, but mostly from the process of carving the bits against the materials. An enclosure helps to dampen the noise but I'm sure this is not an issue only of the Snapmaker - any machine cutting through solid materials with a high speed tool makes the same noise.

Here is the end results of the sample project, a mobile phone holder, made from the provided sheet of acrylic (click to see larger):

I was becoming hooked on my new ability to cut materials, especially organic items such as wood. They have a classic feel to them and the materials are readily available. I can purchase wood in the small town I live in, but would not be able to source plastic filament without ordering it online and waiting for shipping.

I set about using some scrap wood I found around the home and I bought some new material from town. What you see here are some of my 'experiments'. With each project, my ability to achieve a greater quality finish is rapidly improving, at the moment my limits are not the Snapmaker itself but my knowledge of CNC routing which I am very much enjoying learning about.

The above projects were designed and exported from within Fusion 360. Snapmaker have created a detailed and easy to follow video guide on how to create machining files from within Fusion 360. You can see it here for yourself.

3D Printing Module

3D printing is where I have a lot more experience, and I was prepared to point out many faults of the Snapmaker. A machine that tries to be 3 in 1 often needs to make some tradeoffs with each of the features, it seemed like an unavoidable compromise. There is one, but it's not a big deal - speed.

Before we can start 3D printing there is a new toolhead module to fit to the gantry. You're spotting a pattern now? By now the in and out of four bolts followed by reconnecting the electronics cable had become second nature. Same goes for the work platform which this time also required connecting to the electronics using a single push-fit connector which enables it to heat up to improve bed adhesion and minimise warping.

This time we fitted no fewer than 22 screws. Whilst 3D printing, a level print bed is very important to help ensure a successful first layer. 22 screws will certainly keep it down as it heats and cools. On top of this goes a Prusa style flexible and magnetic print sheet. I love these, it makes removing prints later so much easier.

With the bed and toolhead installed I powered on the Snapmaker which automatically recognised I had prepared the machine to do some 3D printing. At this point I also fitted the spool holder and mounted the included 1kg roll of PLA plastic. I had the Snapmaker enclosure installed so this mounted on the outside of the case and was threaded through a hole and then towards the printhead for loading in short while.

To help with the levelling of the first layer the Snapmaker has an Auto Levelling feature, coming in most mid range and upwards 3D printers. This automatically moves a probe across several (9) locations along the print surface and measures the exact height of the bed. The computer software then does some very fancy calculations and adjusts the printing program to more accurately follow any minute variations in the height of the surface.

Once this is complete we need to manually adjust the Z offset. This sets the height of the 9th point as a starting height. The machine need your help for this, it requires simply sliding a piece of paper back and fourth under the nozzle whilst slowly lowering the print head. Once you feel resistance when pulling the paper and it wrinkles up when pushing it you have found the correct height. Press Save and then load the filament. This is all illustrated and well explained to you on the touchscreen.

You're then guided through loading the filament, another simple process. The machine preheats the nozzle (200 °C for PLA), you insert the plastic into the opening at the top of the nozzle and push it gently whilst pressing 'Load' on the display. Shortly after you'll feel the machine grip the filament and pull it though. Done.

I opened up the included Luban software again on my laptop and this time chose their sample vase print. This was easily sliced (converting the 3D model into hundreds or thousands of 2D layers/slices to be printed in succession by the Snapmaker) and transferred to the printer this time via Wifi. This was convenient and is likely to become my preferred way of transferring the files.

One gripe I have is how long it took the print bed to pre-heat. It took several minutes whereas my Prusa does this in about a minute. Though the print bed size on my Prusa is only 250 x 210mm. The print bed on the Snapmaker A350T is a much larger 350 x 320mm. I suspect the smaller models, A250 and A150 heat quicker. I do know they are capable of achieving I higher temperature.

That aside, the machine whirred into life and started successfully printing the vase. There were no hiccups in getting the first layer down. As mentioned at the beginning, the print speed of the updated "T" models is much improved. This makes the biggest difference when using the 3D printing module. AN impressive feat considering all the same linear movement systems still require strength for CNC routing solid materials.

I set about doing some other work at home and then checked in on the 3D printing Snapmaker a bit later. It was about two thirds through the print and had stopped. A quick glance at the touchscreen showed that the automatic filament run out sensor had been triggered. Sure enough, somehow the filament strand had broken between the spool and printhead and it had ran out of filament to print with.

As frustrating as this was, this frustration it turned out was quickly remedied. The display guided me though the steps of reloading the filament into the 3D printing module before it merrily continued to successfully finish the print. If you take a look at the vase in the image above you can see a horizontal band about two thirds of the way up. Apart from this cosmetic mark the vase completed successfully - a welcome relief and proof that their Resume feature does work.

Software - Luban 4

Since the fourth major version of Luban, they have also worked to make the software more intuitive. I've seen some images of the third version and can see that the fourth version is headed in the right direction but I have come across a few little bugs. Nothing major, one example is the where you setup your origin and workspace (it's Snapmaker equivalent of page setup in Microsoft Word). If you enter the work space height and width, then change the origin your recently specified height and width are reset and you need to re-enter them. ( This has been fixed with an update - proof that they do continue to work on refining the software alongside the hardware revisions.)

Since I installed Luban though, I have seen at least two minor updates get pushed so they are continuously working to refine and enhance the software. Thanks to the community based attitude of Snapmaker, you're not constricted to use only their own Luban software. For example, I can use PrusaSlicer to prepare models and then print them on the Snapmaker.

Final thoughts

I believe I am just scrapping the surface of what can be achieved with the Snapmaker.

The expectation was that each mode was going just about pass off as adequate. This is not the case - it has proven itself as a surprisingly capable machine in all disciplines. Let's touch on each one:

3D printing: It has all the features of mainstream non-budget printers. Auto-levelling, filament run out sensors, heated bed, removable and flexible print sheet. With it's main caveat as a printer being its slightly reduced print speed, unless your printing non-stop it isn't really a major issue for most people.

Laser module: This is the first one I tested and I have since gone back to use it for many personal projects. I've engraved the names of the tea onto each of my tea caddies, I even (just about) engraved a friends name onto a stainless steel whistle. My biggest issue with the laser module was the fumes it produces. The addition of an extraction fan venting outside has resolved this. There is also the concern of Laser safety, but providing you wear the included safety glasses and treat it with respect it should not cause any harm.

CNC Routing: Here is where I am most surprised and delighted. I feel I owe this module a personal thank you - it genuinely has sparked a huge interest in CNC routing for me. The quality of the carvings from a desktop machine continues to impress me. I expected the process of fitting tools to the Snapmaker and preparing models to be incredibly involved. But after just a few projects the process has become second nature.

Perhaps my four to five years of 3D printing have worn away the wonder of printed plastic. But without a 3-in-1 machine like the Snapmaker I would have never found the space to keep a CNC router (or Laser for that matter) and would not have the opportunity to expand my knowledge of these two new disciplines and vastly increase the range of processes and materials I can call upon when designing my next project.

If you have the space for three separate machines, then perhaps I might go down that route. If you're looking for simplicity in a surprisingly compact machine then I would happily recommend a Snapmaker. As your interest grows, you're also able to look to their optional add-ons and upgrades such as a 10W laser (vs the standard 1.6W) and Rotary Module for four-axis machining.

Where to buy:

Snapmaker direct: https://bit.ly/3D8sTSp

Technical Details:

Geoleaf - 3D Printable Nanoleaf with ESP8266, Alexa & Hue

lewis@diymachines.co.uk (Lewis Aburrow) — Wed, 22 Sep 2021 18:46:14 GMT

How to build your own Nanoleaf like panels

I have wanted some Nanoleaf lights for a long time but the price has always been too high for me. So I thought I would set about creating my own version using a 3D printer. Each lit panel works out at about £3.40 in materials to make and I’m very happy with the end result.

You can assemble them in any order to suit your wall space and other shapes can be included such as the square panels. I have offset them from the surface to allow a stylish glow out across the wall in the evenings and the panels themselves are bright enough to be seen in the daytime.

I’m using an ESP8266 to control them using the brilliant WLED firmware and its built in webserver. The smarts for the project are all housed in the small rectangular panel at the bottom. They can also be programmed to automatically mimic a Phillips hue bulb or respond to Alexa commands.

I’ll share with you how I made them - they’re really rather simple. As always there is a complete list of parts and links to amazon down below this video, and included some helpful tips and an FAQ here on my site. Enjoy.

Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/107555-geoleaf-3d-print-your-own-nanoleaf-project-alexa-h

Optional square panels to upgrade your project: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1067981962

WLED Code for project (use Chrome web browser for the best experience): https://install.wled.me/

STL model of triangular acrylic diffuser for reference:

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

12v WS2811 LED’s (A 5 meter roll is enough for 12 panels): https://geni.us/WS2811-60
10mm LED connectors - one per panel: https://geni.us/3Pin10mmLEDCable
3D Printer Filament: https://www.3djake.uk
Acrylic sheets (1 A4 sheet = 3 triangles. I used 3mm thick): https://geni.us/OpalFrostedA4Acrylic
DC to DC Buck converter (Mini 360): https://geni.us/Mini360
Logic Level Shifter (74AHCT125): https://geni.us/74AHCT125-LLS
ESP8266 Dev Board: https://geni.us/wemosD1
Plenty of M3x8 bolts: https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
Barrel connector suitable for at least 5amps https://geni.us/HighAmpDCBarrel
12v Power Supply (6 amp+): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply6A
Dual T splice connectors (x2): https://geni.us/DualTSplice
Some 20AWG wire (0.8128mm in diameter): https://geni.us/20AWG

Projects PCB: https://geni.us/GeoLeafPCB

or optionally

PermaProto Board: https://geni.us/HalfPermaProto
Wago Connectors: https://geni.us/Wago2

You can order a pre-soldered PCB with the Wemos, Mini360 and Logic Converter already attached and configured here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1093166401

Or a kit of parts for you to solder yourself here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1084096956

Optional square panes to enhance your project: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1067981962

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:

M3 x 8mm (for assembling the panels and attaching PCB)

Wiring Diagram:

Wiring using an Adafruit Perma-proto half size board (PCB alternative):

I showed a piece of perforated board in the main project video but after further consideration have described how to use a piece of Adafruits Perma-proto board. This small change makes the wiring much simpler and greatly reduces the amount of soldering required.

Integrating with Amazon Alexa

The Nanoleaf project can be integrated with Amazon's Alexa voice assistant service to allow you to control the colour, brightness and toggle the panels on and off with your voice. This option also allows you to further integrate it into other services such as IFTT's routines. It is very easy to add:

Integrating with Philips Hue

Here is some documentation provided on the official Wiki for WLED: https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki/Philips-hue-sync

Find the IP address of your Hue bridge by either clicking here (if you're on the same network at the moment) or by opening the Hue app, go to the settings menu, go to Hue Bridges, select your bridge and note its IP address.
In a web browser navigate to: https://<bridge ip address>/debug/clip.html (ensuring you substitute your IP address). This will open the 'CLIP API Debugger' of your Hue Bridge.
To be able to ask for more sensitive information about your Hue system you need to ask for a username to prove who we are. Do this by entering the following into the fields of the API Debugger:
URL = /api
Message Body = {"devicetype":"my_hue_app#geoleaf"}
And then press the 'POST' button. This should return an error saying 'link button not pressed'. This is a security step to ensure you should be allowed access to your Hue data. Press the physical button on top of your Hue Bridge and then press 'POST' again.
This time it will generate unique username for you. Note this down - it will be a long string of letters and numbers.
This time enter the following information into the fields:
URL = /api/YOUR-UNIQUE-USERNAME
And press the 'GET' button. This will return all the information about your Hue system.
This information can then be copied from the results and pasted into a JSON viewer such as http://jsonviewer.stack.hu . From here you can find the bulb you would like to mimic, take note of its ID and enter this into WLED.

FAQ

Discord sever for project: https://discord.gg/sbqyCmmYjc

Comments

Elegoo Mars 3 4k Resin Printer Review

Sat, 31 Jul 2021 14:12:16 GMT

Elegoo Mars 3 ULTRA 4k Resin Printer

A quick, fantastically detailed and reliable resin printer in a compact and easy to use body. I think it's great and the prints produced are stunning! (See the photos further in the review).

Pros:

Wallet friendly price considering the quality
Compact footprint
Air filters seem to be improved
Chitubox Pro Slicing Software included

Cons:

Some mismatch in icons between machine and its manual
The pro Chitubox software only lasts one year, after which you can pay for it or fall back to the free (non-pro) tier

Where to buy:

Amazon: https://geni.us/ElegooMars3
Elegoo direct: https://www.elegoo.com/collections/mars-series/products/elegoo-mars-3-lcd-3d-printer

What is it?

The Mars 3 is a Mono LCD (liquid crystal display) 3D resin printer from Elegoo. It is the third major revision in their Mars series and this heritage shows. Resin LCD printers create the 3D parts by curing a single layer of resin onto the underside of a submerged build plate. Each additional layer is fused on to the previous with a UV light as the platform rises out of the tank of liquid resin.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The build volume is 89.6 x 143.36 x 175mm - a very generous build volume given the small footprint of the machine and an improvement on the Mars 2 whilst still maintaining a higher print resolution thanks to its new 4k screen.

This monochrome 4k LCD screen, in partnership with the newly designed COB light source, allows the machine to cure layers in just a couple of seconds (1.5 to 3 seconds depending on the resin and chosen layer height). A huge and noticeable improvement on some of the earlier models.

The sandblasted build plate and second generation FEP ( Fluorinated ethylene propylene - and no, I didn't know that of the top of my head) film both increase the ability for prints to adhere to the build plate and release from the vat ensuring more successful prints more often. :)

Shipping and Packing

I've received several machines from Elegoo over time and each and everyone has always been thoughtfully packed. The Mars 3 is no exception. Strong box, dense foam, and protective sheets easily defend the machine from the bumps and jolts the global delivery network might throw at it in transit. There won't be any tears when opening the box.

There is also a small box at the base of the printer which includes a selection of well packed accessories...

What else is included?

Protective face mask
USB Disk (preloaded with demo print, electronic copy of user manual and slicing software)
Printed setup and user manual

A few pairs of disposable gloves
A plastic scraper
A stainless steel scraper
Allen keys
Flush cutters (for removing supports)

Some resin filter funnels
Spare screws and bolts
Stainless steel scraper (for removing prints)
Power supply

I would also recommend treating yourself to some protective eye wear if you don't already have some. I don't know about you, but I'm already on my last pair of eyes so want to take good care of them.

Assembly

Despite having some allen keys, screws, and bolts included in the package there is almost no assembly to write about. It mostly involves removing the foam sheets and plastic protection from the various parts. Other than having someones else visit your house and unpack the printer for you it doesn't get much easier than this!

Instruction manual

The instructions are swift and concise. Of course you'll find the occasional Chinese to English mistranslation but it's part of the fun. You can download a copy of the instructions to see for yourself if you would like, I've put a link to it adjacent for you. There are also numerous Youtube videos available.

First prints and impressions

Before turning the printer on I should comment on the shape of this machine. I know the new aesthetic design will divide opinions but I find it a refreshing change from the more boxed shapes of most other resin printers in this price range.

Though despite the added curves and arches making it more reminiscent of Space X's Dragon capsule, the area containing the touchscreen controls, power button, and USB port seems simpler and more prominent.

The power connection is at the rear of the machine and a series of air vents can be found at both sides for keeping the very large and bright COB light source cool while it does its thing.

Fans can be heard at a constant volume immediately after powering on the machine, though they are at a pitch and volume which is easily ignored. I wouldn't want to sleep in the same room as it, but otherwise the volume is acceptable.

Levelling the print bed

It seems that every printer, no matter its method for creating a 3D object, needs it s bed levelled at some stage or another. Thankfully it's a relatively easy affair on the Mars 3.

It's a simple case of removing the resin tank using the two thumbscrews on either side then adding a sheet of paper on top of the screen. Slide the build plate onto the arm of the printer and tighten using the giant knob up top. We can then loosen the two silver bolts just above the build platform so that it can freely move. The Allen key you'll need is included.

Start the homing sequence using the onscreen controls and watch as the machine lowers the platform onto the sheet of paper. Use one hand to hold the platform flat and square onto of the paper as you re-tighten the two bolts.

As long as the paper can be pulled out with some resistance your done. Otherwise raise or lower the platform using the onscreen controls and tug at the paper again until you feel the right level of resistance.

Adding resin and printing

During the printing the display shows the current curing image being emitted on the print screen, the elapsed and remaining time along with the current layer height.

My first attempt at the test print failed after about 30 minutes. Both rooks had detached from the build plate and were attached to the FEP film submerged in the resin tank. To resolve this I used one of the filters to filter the contents of the resin tank back into the bottle whilst catching any miss prints. This revealed the two failed prints (sorry I forgot to take some photos of this stage). I carefully used the included plastic scraper to persuade them to release from the FEP film which was easily done.

Whilst the remaining resin filtered back into the bottle I used some alcohol and tissue to clean the build plate. Once this dried I returned the resin to the vat from the bottle and tried a second time. This was a success and I believe I should have cleaned the build plate with alcohol from my first print, perhaps it had some residue left on it from the manufacturing process. Either way, since the first clean it has not failed since.

After the print has completed the prints can be left to drip back into the resin tray for a short while. They then need further cleaning (with alcohol in the case of this resin) and then curing. Once this is complete you can examine the prints. Take a look at them in the below images and make your own mind up - then I'll tell you what I thin k. (They can be clicked on to be enlarged so you can really judge them).

I think they look fantastic - especially the text on the top of the tower. It is very crisp and legible. I decided to print another print - the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris. The model is detailed and I have one which I had printed on the predecessor to this printer - the Elegoo Mars 2. An ideal comparison for anyone who wants to know if it's worth making the upgrade. (Again click to see larger images).

Elegoo Mars 3 ULTRA test prints of Cathédrale Notre-Dame:

Printed with default profile, washed and cured with Elegoo Mercury X bundle

Elegoo Mars 2 test print of Cathédrale Notre-Dame:

Printed with default profile, washed and cured by hand (and a little dusty - sorry)

And a side by side comparison:

Something untoward happened in the lower layers of the Mars 3. I'm not sure what caused this but the remainder of the print was unaffected.

It should be mentioned that I have also become more apt at cleaning and curing my resin prints since the model printed on the Mars 2, so bare this in mind when comparing the two. Either way, the improvement in clarity is easily noticeable.

Software - Chitubox Pro (for now)...

A copy of Chitubox Pro (usually 169 USD a year at the time of writing) is included with the printer. The Pro license lasts only for the first year, after which you can either pay the ongoing upgrade fee to keep it or fall back to the standard free tier of Chitubox.

I've used the basic version of Chitubox for several models on my Elegoo Mars 2 and I found it perfectly adequate for preparing the models for printing. However, having tried the Pro version it does have some notable and welcome improvements. Here are a few upgrades in usability:

The 'Auto Layout' and 'Hollow' tools are more capable when automatically performing the task. The Auto Layout will weaves parts around one another instead of treating each item as filling it's bounding box.
New tools such as 'Add Tag' allows you to easily add modelled text to an imported 3D file whilst the Boolean Operations allow you to to use more than one model to join too or subtract from another.
Chitubox pro is more able to process and repair less than perfect models including closing small undesired holes.
Overhang and island detection is improved.
Tools have been added for measuring and analysing your model inside the slider with greater accuracy.

These features are welcome and worthwhile if you use your printer regularly or for high value modelling. Personally I will be falling back to the free tier, I love resin printing but don't do it often enough to warrant the higher price tag after the first year.

Currently, Chitubox is the only slicer that can prepare files for printing on the Elegoo Mars which is something Elegoo are looking to change. Read more about this here: https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/news/elegoo-official-statement-of-the-chitubox-board-firmware-on-mars-3

Final thoughts

I'm primarily a FDM printer user with my Prusa i3 Mk3 being my main workhorse so my experience with resin printers is that of a complete beginner who is about 6 months it on their journey of discovery and awe a what these can achieve.

I'm still producing prints. This morning I printed a bowling trophy for a friend and am still astonished at just how smooth and professional the print quality is. This would take many hours of post processing if I had done this on my FDM printer to get the same level of smoothness. It's instantly ready for painting and then gifting.

Anyone who produces miniatures for painting, or is mostly concerned with very high levels of detail should absolutely be using a resin printer, and I can certainly recommend this one. I hope this equivalent resolution per cm is carried over to the larger Elegoo Saturn range.

As for all resin printers, you’ll of course need some items for cleaning and curing the print after printing. So if this is your first foray into resin printing it's not a case of buying just the resin printer, you will also need to figure out how you intend to wash and cure the model to realise it's full potential - but this review is on the resin printer not resin printing in general.

Elegoo and other manufacturers do make machines that can both wash and cure your prints for you. This makes the process much easier. As mentioned earlier, they are also working extremely hard to be the first to market with a non-toxic, easy to print and high quality resin. When this has been achieved I'm sure many more people will adopt a resin printer.

Where to buy:

Amazon: https://geni.us/ElegooMars3
Elegoo direct: https://www.elegoo.com/collections/mars-series/products/elegoo-mars-3-lcd-3d-printer

Technical Details:

Kinetic Sand Art Coffee Table - Self drawing

lewis@diymachines.co.uk (Lewis Aburrow) — Sun, 20 Jun 2021 16:09:42 GMT

Easily Build a
MACHINE THAT DESTROYS WHAT IT CREATES
(Kinetic Sand Art Coffee Table)

I’m going to show you exactly how you can easily make your own super cool automated kinetic sand art table step-by-step. Including smart LED lighting

https://www.youtube.com/diymachines

It is incredibly captivating to be beside this simple DIY wooden table as the steel ball magically carves out an endless and ever changing series of beautiful geometric patterns in the sand.

Downloads:

3D models for printing: https://bit.ly/3h34OT0

Fusion 360 model: https://a360.co/3eT8mr3

Code for project and sample drawings: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/Kinetic-Sand-Art-Table

Quantity of 3D printed parts required:

BaseBoardMount.stl (x1)
BeltGrip.stl (x1)
ComputerCase.stl (x1)
ComputingLid.stl (x1)
ControlPanel.stl (x1)
GRBLCase.stl (x1)
GRBLCaseLid.stl (x1)
IdleSupport.stl (x2)
LED-Corner.stl (x4)
MagnetMount.stl (x1)
MotorBaseLeft.stl (x1)
MotorBaseRight.stl (x1)
PowerPanelCase.stl (x1)
PowerPanelLid.stl (x1)
WireLoop.stl (x4)
X-CarriageMount.stl (x2)

Wiring Diagram and wood cut list:

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

12v Nema 17 stepper motors (x2): https://geni.us/StepperMotor
GT2 Timing belt (3m was used in the video): https://geni.us/TimingBelt5m
5mm bore idler, 6mm or 10mm width, 20 teeth (x2): https://geni.us/6mmIdler5mmBoreToothed
5mm bore idler, 6 or 10mm width, toothless (x4): https://geni.us/6mmIdlerWheel5mmBore
Elegoo Arduino Uno (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoUno
Nuts, bolts and screws (See list below): https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
M2.5 x 6mm bolts (for securing Raspberry Pi) (x4) - https://geni.us/PiBolt
Stepper drivers - TMC2208 (x2): https://geni.us/TMC2208
Contact switch (x3): https://geni.us/ContactSwitch
Arduino CNC Shield (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoCNCShield
Magnets, I used three x 15x3mm and one countersunk 20x7mm all high strength: https://geni.us/CountersunkMagnet https://geni.us/N52Magnets
30mm 5V Fan (x1): https://geni.us/30mm5vFan
Micro SD Card 8Gb or higher for Raspberry Pi (x1) - https://geni.us/Micro-SD
Neopixels/WS2812b on a 30 per meter roll. - https://geni.us/5mWS2812B30m
12mm momentary push button (x3): https://geni.us/MomentaryPush12mm
Some filament for the printed parts (I used PLA, including the wood infused LumberJake from 3D Jake) - https://www.3djake.com
Wiring blocks - five wires (x2) and three wires (x2). I used the Wago 221 series - https://geni.us/Wago221
Mini360 Buck Converter (x1): https://geni.us/Mini360
Faux leather fabric (enough to cover the surface): https://geni.us/FauxLeather
Steel ball - 20mm:
Sand (I used around 600g):

To make a table frame which measures roughly 80 x 60cm:

40cm long linear rail with block - MGN12H (x2): https://geni.us/LinearRail400mm
60cm long linear rail with block - MGN12H (x1): https://geni.us/LinearRail600mm

See www.diymachine.co.uk for instructions on how to build a larger or smaller version.

Arduino Nano (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
Electrical wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
12v power supply - 2A or greater (x1): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply2A
Barrel Connector - Female (x1): https://geni.us/FemalePowerBarrel

Pocket hole jig: https://geni.us/PocketHoleJig

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:

M5 x 20mm (x6)
M3 x 8mm (x18)
M3 x 12mm (x19)
M3 nuts (x6)
M2.5 bolts for Pi (x4)
Short wood screws (x45)
Optional pocket hole screws (x24)

Discord Community Server

You will find a very active group of makers who are currently building or have built one of their own kinetic sand tables on the Discord channel for this project: https://discord.gg/JxM3jxFhv8

FAQ

Comments

Elegoo Neptune 2

Thu, 17 Jun 2021 09:45:31 GMT

Elegoo Neptune 2 FDM 3D Printer

A budget friendly FDM printer from Elegoo. It has some nice features for the price point, simple to set-up and great introduction to 3D printing for makers.

Pros:

Very budget friendly price
It's simplicity in design leads to easy maintenance and troubleshooting
Filament sensor
Near silent stepper motor drivers

Cons:

Some misleading English translations
Print head fan is noisy

Where to buy:

Amazon: https://geni.us/ElegooNeptune2FDM

What is it?

The Neptune 2 is a Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D printer from Elegoo. FDM printers create the 3D parts by depositing one layer of hot plastic at a time on top of the previous which is fused together by the temperature of the plastic. It appears to positioned to compete with the more pricier and very popular Creality Ender 3 Pro, and though each has their own differentiating features, during my time with the Neptune 2 I have grown to respect the choices Elegoo have made when designing it.

Technical Overview

For a more detailed technical table please see the end of this review.

The build volume is 220 x 220 x 250mm - a very common build volume so you should be able to print most of the models you may find from others without difficulty.

The machines Bowden style extrude r (as opposed to direct drive) will make the printing of flexible materials much more difficult, and any filament breakages which occur inside the Bowden tube will be trickier to remove.

A removable print bed is included and is held in place using four bulldog clips at the edges.

The print surface appears to be similar to BuildTak surface and I did not have an difficulty in the prints adhesion to the print surface.

Shipping and Packing

When the parcel arrived directly from Elegoo everything seemed well packed. Nothing sounds loose or can be heard when shaking the packaging (carefully) before opening. This is a promising start. I have had resin printers from Elegoo previously and they have always arrived well packaged.

The components which make up the printer are split over two layers, each surrounded by plenty of foam/polystyrene. One part (a motor) can be seen in the top tray of parts but is actually in the bottom. This meant I tried to pull it free while unpacking the top layer before realising it was part of the layer tray. No damage caused - just good to note.

What else is included?

Besides the expected 3D printer Elegoo also provided a generous selection of tools and accessories in the box, everything a beginner would need to start in their adventure in 3D printing:

Some PLA filament
8GB Micro SD card
USB Micro SD card reader
Spare 0.4mm nozzle

USB cable
Screwdrivers
Flush cutters
Spare cable zip ties

Set of Allen keys
Two spanners
Stainless steel scraper (for removing prints)

Assembly

This printer arrives as a few mostly pre-assembled parts which require less than an hour to assemble into a completed printer. You're provided with all the tools required and some additional ones for good measure. It briefly involves bolting the large sections together, fitting the timing belt (or 'synchronous belt' as the instructions refer to it) and then connecting the various electrical components together.

This is easily achieved on your own with little need for frustration and very few opportunities to make damaging mistakes.

All the metal components were very well machined and the bolts were installed with no problems. The timing belt is simple enough to fit and the tensioning mechanism is easily adjustable at any point. The electrical connections are labelled clearly along with the illustrations for the wiring in the instructions.

The instructions themselves are brief but adequate, relying on very little language similar to an Ikea instruction booklet. There are some of the expected, slightly auto-thesaurus like, Chinese to English translations which provide a little humour but do not confuse the build process.

Instruction manual

The instructions were more than capable of showing me how to assemble the machine. But there are a few things I found missing or some tricks that I would like to pass on to help you assemble your own with ease. You can also download a copy of the instructions to see for yourself:

Z Homing Switch

On page five of the instructions you are instructed to install the Z axis homing switch assembly with a 5mm gap between its base and the floor of the machine. I used a spare 5mm bolt from the bag placed underneath whilst tightneing the two silver ones above to easily achieve the required spacing.

Bowden (filament) tube installation

The instructions neglect to ask you to connect the bowden tube between the output of the filament stepper and the extruder assembly.

To do this, it is just a case of pushing in the grey collar at the stepper motor, inserting the bowden tube whilst keeping the collar pressed in, and then pulling the collar back out to secure the tube in place.

A gentle tug can confirm this.

First prints and impressions

The first thing to note once the assembly was complete is that my machine had a rather pronounced wobble. The machine itself was solid so it was not going to result in a notable deterioration in print quality - however when the print bed begins going back and fourth rythimcally it created a tapping on the table top. This was easily remedied with some card wedged under one corner though. Perhaps an adjustable foot on just one corner would have prevented this - but I understand every feature is a cost, and this printer does still deliver a lot of features for little cost.

Levelling the print bed

This is the first printer I have used which required manual levelling and the thought of this was extremely daunting. However, I had nothing to fear.

Once the machine is powered on you can navigate to 'Tool' and then 'Levelling' on the touchscreen. Grab yourself a piece of paper and place it on the print bed. Choose 'Point 1' on the printers screen and the printing nozzle will move to the front left corner. Simply rotate the large adjustment wheel beneath this corner of the bed to change the height until you can slide the paper around easily between the nozzle and printed with just some light friction caused by the nozzle. All four adjustment wheels are easily accessed from the front of the machine.

Repeat this for each of the five points (the fifth one is a centre point) until you can move between all five of them without needing to make any adjustments. Simple as that. :)

Loading the filament and printing

The loading of the filament went without a hitch once I realised you could squeeze open the path between the extruder gears so that you could manually insert the filament through the filament sensor (which lights blue the moment it detects the presence of filament) and feed it all the way through the bowden tube until it is stopped by the cold printing nozzle. Before this I was using the controls on the screen to repeatably feed a few mm's through at a time which was painfully slow.

With the filament loaded I started the first print which I found on the included Micro SD card. Elegoo all include a very handy USB Micro SD card reader in the box - which was very useful for me as my Apple laptop does not (to my frustration) include an inbuilt SD card reader. Thank you Elegoo.

The machine began to pre-heat the build platform and then nozzle. As soon as the nozzle hit 50 Celsius its fan kicked in (as it is supposed to do) but the volume of the fan was surprising. One of the great features of this printer are it very quite stepper motor drivers which just can't be appreciated all that much when the fan is so pronounced. This is probably my biggest gripe and would be the first thing I will replace in order to make the biggest improvement. However, later when printing overhangs it is apparent that despite the fan being good at making a noise, it is also good at cooling the prints leading to an impressive ability for this machine to print overhangs.

The results of the first prints are below. The model was printed in PLA plastic. As mentioned before it is the pre-sliced model included on the SD card which looks to be a fairly high layer height (evident in the stepping). There is very little sign of droop on the overhangs or stringing at the top. Click the below images to inspect a larger version for yourself.

Considering the price of this printer - I am extremely impressed with the print quality and ease of use. Adhesion was perfect and no intervention was required during the printing.

Software - Cura

Elegoo include a customised copy of Cura on the Micro SD card. I found the Windows version but had to download the Mac version for free from Elegoo website: https://www.elegoo.com/pages/3d-printing-user-support

If you're not a fan of Cura, you are also free to use other slicing software such as the open source PrusaSlicer.

Technical Details:

Smart Chess Board - Play online or against Raspberry Pi

Sun, 21 Mar 2021 20:00:54 GMT

Hello, I’m Lewis, this is DIY Machines, and this is how you can build your own Smart Chessboard for both local and online matches.

Though this board has a great single player mode, If you build two, and bond them together digitally you then send one to a friend or loved one so you that you can play chess together over the internet with real chess pieces and only a few seconds of delay. It’s a great way to share some time and to connect with people who are physically distant.

Take a look at the video which highlights the main features at the beginning before explaining in detail how to make your own:

Here are a few more features:

Check your moves are legal and warn you when you don't play by the rules
Suggest what would be a good next move for you
Entirely 3D printable including the chess pieces
Very cool looking LED lighting to convey the game status and provide the lighting for evening games
Smart control panel which guides you through how to use the board with intelligent backlighting
Small and low cost OLED screen to help guide you through using it
Powered by USB, so you can connect it to mains or run it from a common USB battery pack for untethered play

The internet connectivity, computer opponent and rule checking are handled by a Raspberry Pi, whilst the lighting and buttons are taken care of by an Arduino Nano.

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

(x86) Neopixels/WS3212b on a 30 per meter roll. - https://geni.us/5mWS2812B30m
(x10) 6x6x5mm tactile momentary push buttons - https://geni.us/6x6TactileButton
(X1) Arduino Nano - https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
(X1) Raspberry Pi (Zero can cope but recommend model 3 A+) - https://geni.us/RaspberryPiAPlus
(X1) Micro SD Card 8Gb or higher for Raspberry Pi - https://geni.us/Micro-SD
(X1) Logic level shifter - https://geni.us/TXS0108E-Shifter
(x2) Wiring blocks for at least 6 wires each. I used the Wago 243 series - https://geni.us/Wago-243
Some Wire - https://geni.us/22AWGWire
(x12) M3x6mm bolts - https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
(x4) M2.5 x 6mm bolts (for securing Raspberry Pi) - https://geni.us/PiBolt
Some plastic for the printed parts (I used PLA, including this wood infused lumberjack from 3D Jake who kindly help support my project) - https://www.3djake.com
(x1) USB female DIP board - https://geni.us/FemaleMicroUSBDIP
(X1) 0.96 Inch OLED screen - https://geni.us/0-96OLED

Downloads:

Further down this page are the instructions for configuring the software on the Raspberry Pi.

3D printed parts can be downloaded from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4800488

Download the code from Github: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/SmartChess

Please consider supporting my projects by printing these chess pieces perfectly sized for the board: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1081770177

Wiring Diagram:

Setting up Raspberry Pi:

The following steps explain step-by-step how to install the software for this project so that you van play locally on your board against the computer without requiring an internet connection as well as how to configure it to play online against another human player.

I'll guide you through:

Flashing the Raspberry Pi OS onto the SD card
Configure it heedlessly to connect to wifi and accept SSH connections
Install Stockfish (the chess engine)
Download the code I've written for the project from Github
Install other needed third party libraries
Configure the serial connection between the Pi and Arduino
Set it up to start the software automatically after it boots
Bond two boards together if your making two to play online against a friend or family member.

Installing and configuring Raspbian / Pi OS on to your SD card

To begin with you will need to download the Raspberry Pi Imager from the foundations website: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/

Once you have downloaded and installed the software you can insert your Micro SD card into your PC and select 'Choose OS' followed by 'Raspberry Pi OS (32 bit)'.

Choose your SD card and then press 'Write'. If you have not installed this OS before then the program will spend a little time downloading the image file before proceeding with writing it to your SD card and then verifying. Once completed remove the SD card and then re-insert it into your computer. You should see it mount itself with the drive name of 'boot'.

We will add two files to the boot drive to help set up the Pi headless (without needing to connect a keyboard and monitor to it). The first file is simply a blank document saved with the file name 'ssh'. This will be looked for by the Pi when it boots, when it sees it it will know to enable SSH which we will use to connect to it shortly.

To do this we also need to connect the Pi to your wifi. This time create a new text document with the filename ' wpa_supplicant.conf '. In this document add the following text:

You should change a few parts to suit your situation before saving. Set the country code to your region, if you're not sure of the correct country codes you can look them up here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_3166-1_alpha-2

Also replace "YOURSSID" with the name of your wifi network and "YOURPASSWORD" with the password for your wifi network. You can then save and close the document.

Safely remove the SD card from your computer and insert it into your Raspberry Pi. Apply power to the Raspberry Pi and wait a couple of minutes for it to perform its initial startup.

Connecting via SSH

If you prefer to at this point, you can connect to the Pi with a keyboard, mouse and display if your more comfortable working with it that way. If your comfortable you can connect to it via SSH instead which is what I will be doing now. Either way achieves the same outcome.

Once the Pi has finished booting (you can look for the activity light settling down) you should be able to connect to it via SSH.

ssh pi@192.168.86.30

You will need to find the correct IP address for your Raspberry Pi. (You can try "ssh pi@raspberrypi.local").

Update the Pi

We will start by issuing the following commands one by one. This will check for and apply any updates that are available:

sudo apt-get update

sudo apt-get upgrade

The second command is likely to take a few moments. It's a great opportunity to make yourself a cup of tea. :). Once done we can install another set of software - python-serial:

sudo apt install python-serial

Install Stockfish

Stockfish is an open source chess engine. You can find out more about here if you want to: https://stockfishchess.org It is very easy to install, you just need to run the following command:

sudo apt-get install stockfish

Download the projects code

The code for this project is available to download from Github. To do this you will need a Github account. They are free to create and can be done here if you need to: https://github.com/join

When you have an account we can issue the command:

git clone https://github.com/DIY-Machines/SmartChess.git

Git will ask for your account details and then will download the projects files to the 'pi' users home directory. If you type 'ls' you should see a folder named 'SmartChess'. This is where the projects files are contained.

Install third party libraries - AdafruitIO

There are several other pieces of software we need, most of which has been written by the great folk at Adafruit. The first part we will install is to help us with connecting the boards via the internet via Adafruits Adafruit.io platform. At the terminal run the command:

pip3 install Adafruit-io

Install third party libraries - Adafruit CircuitPython

The next install is for Adafruits CircuitPython. They have a good installation guide for that which you can reference here: https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-on-raspberrypi-linux/installing-circuitpython-on-raspberry-pi . The general overview of it involved running the following commands one after another on your Raspberry Pi:

sudo pip3 install --upgrade setuptools

cd ~

sudo pip3 install --upgrade adafruit-python-shell

wget https://raw.githubusercontent.com/adafruit/Raspberry-Pi-Installer-Scripts/master/raspi-blinka.py

sudo python3 raspi-blinka.py

If after running the last line the script asks if you would like to set the system default to Python3 choose yes. When it asks you to reboot you should also choose yes. After the reboot is complete you should be able to run

ls /dev/i2c* /dev/spi*

on your Pi as see it return the result

/dev/i2c-1 /dev/spidev0.0 /dev/spidev0.1

Install third party libraries - SSD1306 and Pillow Library

Installing the SSD1306 library for the screen is as simple as running:

pip3 install adafruit-circuitpython-ssd1306

To install the Python Imaging library (PIL) and the required supporting libraries run:

sudo apt-get install python3-pil

Serial Connection

sudo nano /boot/config.txt

Addd line: dtoverlay=disable-bt

sudo nano /boot/cmdline.txt

Find the following text and remove it:

console=serial0,115200

Setting the program to start automatically at power on

First we need to ensure that the desktop environment starts up even when we do not have a monitor connected. Open the Raspberry Pi configuration utility by running

sudo raspi-config

Open the display options menus and set the default resolution to the bottom option.

Whilst we are here you should also go to the interfaces screen and enable the iC2 interface. Save, exit and reboot.

Now we can set the chess program to start up automatically when the Raspberry Pi boots up instead of having to rely on having a keyboard to hand to start the show (or connecting via VNC or SSH to achieve the same).

Before we do this you will need to turn on viewing hidden item in the view options of the Pi file explorer if you are following this guide with a keyboard, mouse, and monitor attached to your Pi. You could also use the keyboard shortcut of 'Ctrl' + 'H'.

Now navigate to: /etc/xdg/lxsession/LXDE-pi/ and copy the file 'autostart' to your clipboard.

Next, navigate to: /home/pi/.config. In this folder create a new folder called 'lxsession', and inside this folder create one called 'LXDE-pi'. We can now paste our copy of 'autostart' into this folder.

We can now open and edit the 'autostart' file found in /home/pi/.config/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart

You need to append the following line at the bottom of the document:

/usr/bin/python2 /home/pi/SmartChess/RaspberryPiCode/StartChessGame.py

It should look like the below after you have added the additional line we require.

Once done you can save the document and reboot your Pi. The chess software should start automatically shortly after the Pi has loaded, this can be confirmed by the text being shown on the OLED screen and the green loading sequence shown on the chessboard surface speeding up the moment the Raspberry Pi is ready to play.

Setting up online remote play

If you have made two boards and want them to play against each other remotely via the internet there are a couple more changes we need to make to the python code.

The boards will communicate using Adafruits AdafruitIO service. Their free tier has everything you need to make this work. If you do not already have an account then you can set one up at https://io.adafruit.com

Once set up, log into your account and then head to 'My Key' so that we can retrieve your unique keys.

Once here take a note of your Username and Active Key. We can then open then open the Python script 'update-online.py' by issuing the following commands at the terminal on your Raspberry Pi:

sudo nano SmartChess/RaspberryPiCode/update-online.py

Replace the value found in 'ADAFRUIT_IO_KEY' with your personal key you noted earlier, and enter your user name into the value for 'ADAFRUIT_IO_USERNAME'.

You can then press 'CTR' + 'x' on your keyboard to exit the text editor, being sure to save your changes as you exit.

You can enter the same username and key on both chess boards if you are building two. The boards will negotiate who goes in what order when you choose the which colour your playing as when you switch the chessboard on. If you're building more than two they can still share the same credential but you should only have two connected for online playing at a time. Any extras are fine for playing against the computer as they do not connect online when you choose to play against Stockfish on the Raspberry Pi.

That's it. Your software is now setup. If you've not finished assembling the hardware, jump back to the video to finish: https://youtu.be/Z92TdhsAWD4

Otherwise here is a brief guide to using it...

Quick start user guide

When you first start the smart chessboard by connecting power to it, the chess board will show a growing trail of green squares whilst the Raspberry Pi boots. Once it has finished booting and is ready for you the chess board will quickly finish the booting animation and then ask you if you want to play locally against the computer, or connect with another board over the internet.

Challenge the computer

At this point you choose option one (using the keys on the control panel) to start playing against the built in chess computer or option two to start a game against a second chessboard other the internet (if you made two and bonded them together using the same Adafruit.io credentials).

Choosing option '1) Against PC' will present you with two more options. What level of computer ability would you like to play against which you select by choosing a number between one through to eight on the panel with level one being the easiest and eight being the toughest. You are then prompted to choose a time limit imposed on the computer when it makes its decision, again it is an option between one and eight with one allowing it just a few seconds and eight allowing enough time that you might want to go for a walk and come back to see its choice of move! :)

Challenging a friend or family member on a second board over the internet

If you want to play against another board then choose option '2) Remote human' after you have powered on the smart chessboard.

Next you need to let the chessboard know if you will be playing the white or black side of the game.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Comments:

TSX0108E - Logic Level Converter

Wed, 03 Mar 2021 21:19:08 GMT

A logic level shifter is a great tool to have in your arsenal as a maker. They are fantastic at helping to bridge the gap between 3.3v logic devices (such as Raspberry Pi's and some sensors) and 5v logic devices such as Arduino Uno's.

In this post I'll explain the TXS0108E shifter by Texas Instruments. It's cheap enough to have several to hand for when you need it next.

To follow along with the example project in the video you will need a few items, the links automatically redirect you to right item on your local Amazon site:

TXS0108E Logic Level Shifter: https://geni.us/TXS0108E-Shifter
Raspberry Pi: https://geni.us/RaspberryPiV4
Arduino Uno: https://geni.us/ArduinoUno
Jumper wires: https://geni.us/JumperWires
Breadboard: https://geni.us/MiniBreadboard

Wiring Diagram:

Mini Make - Hands on example project:

Once you have wired together the project as shown in the wiring diagram above we can prepare the software on the Raspberry Pi and the Arduino.

Preparing the Arduino:

The Arduino should be connected to your computer via USB and then use the free Arduino IDE ( https://www.arduino.cc/en/software ) to upload this code to it after selecting the correct board type and port:

Preparing the Raspberry Pi:

You will need to install an image of Raspberry Pi OS on your SD card if you have not already done so. I recommend using the official Raspberry Pi Imager to install the latest version of the OS. The software can be downloaded for free from the Pi Foundation: https://www.raspberrypi.org/software/

After installation is complete, open the program a choose the Raspberry Pi OS. If you have not downloaded it before the program will download it automatically for it and cache it for future installs. Insert a micro SD card of 4GB or higher which you don't mind being erased and then press 'WRITE'. This might take a little while to be written to the card and verified. But once complete you will need to remove and then reinsert the micro SD card so that it mounts itself as 'BOOT' on your computer.

We will add two files to the boot partition to accelerate the setup of the Pi. One will configure SSH and the other your wifi credentials.

For the wifi credentials you will need to create a ne w file on the boot partition named text ' wpa_supplicant.conf '. In this text file past the following:

Don't forget to replace YOURSSID and YOURPASSWORD with the correct details for the wifi connect you want your Pi to connect to. You should also set the correct country code if you are not in the US. For me here in the UK it should be set to GB. See here for a list of other country codes: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_3166-1_alpha-2

To enable SSH on the Pi we just need to create a blank file with the name ssh on the boot drive.

Once you have created both of these you can safely remove the micro SD card and boot it on your Raspberry Pi.

Configuring the Raspberry Pi

Connect to the Pi via SSH after it has completed booting. We will first need to install a popular serial library which we will be using later. Do this with the command: ' python3 -m pip install pyserial ' at the terminal. You may find you already have it installed.

Next we need to redirect the full UART from the Bluetooth to the GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi. This just requires a couple of amendments to some text documents.

To disable the bluetooth edit the file '/boot/config.tx' by typing sudo nano /boot/config.txt in the terminal. Scroll down to the end of the document and at the very end under '[all]' add a new line which reads :
dtoverlay=disable-bt

To save the changes and exit type CTRL+X on the keyboard, followed by 'Y' to confirm that you want to save your changes and then press ENTER to confirm again.

We also need to disable the serial console . For this you need to edit the /boot/cmdline.txt file . Do this by using the command:

sudo nano /boot/cmdline.txt

Find the following text and remove i t: ' console=serial0,115200 '

Exit the editor as you did before, saving your changes, and then reboot the Raspberry Pi:

sudo reboot

After the Pi has rebooted you should find that when you run the command ls -l /dev/serial* you see that serial0 port points to ttyAMA0 as shown below:

Adding the script to the Pi is as simple as creating a new document named 'TSX0108E-RaspberryPiCode.py/ by running the command: sudo nano TXS0108E-RaspberryPiCode.py

Into this document past in the filling small Python script:

Run the test

We're ready now to test our code and see the TSX0108E logic level converter in action. To do this, check all your wiring is in place according to the wiring diagram towards the top of this page. You should only have USB power connected to the Raspberry Pi - the Arduino is being powered by the Pi.

On the Raspberry Pi run: python3 TXS0108E-RaspberryPiCode.py

Answer the Pi's question with your name. The Pi then passes this to the Arduino via its serial communication with the logic level translator taking care of the required voltages for both devices. The Arduino then modifyies the string before returning it back to the Pi for it to display in the terminal - proving that the converter works in both directions.

Comments:

RC & Programmable Domino Laying Machine

Wed, 23 Dec 2020 17:15:45 GMT

How to 3D print and assemble your very own programmable and remote controllable automatic domino laying machine.

Who likes knocking down absurdly long runs of dominoes? I do. Who doesn't like laying them all by hand. I don't. That's why I made this. ��

Using some basic electronics this machine can line up well spaced rows of wooden dominoes. You can drive it around corners, forwards and backwards - just don't drive into your already laid dominoes. You can enter a list of instructions to your robot via the Arduino IDE, upload with USB and then send it on it's way to follow your instructions, or you can open the phone app and drive it live via bluetoo th.

List of ite ms used in this project and where to find them:

Arduino Uno (x1) - https://geni.us/ArduinoUno
Micro continuous rotation servo (x1) - https://geni.us/360MicroServo
Micro 180º servo (x1) - https://geni.us/MicroServo
LM317 DC-DC Converter (x1) - https://geni.us/LM317
Six AA Battery Holder (x1) - https://geni.us/6AABatteryHolder
AA Batteries (x6) - https://geni.us/AABatteries
1:90 TT DC Motor (x1) - https://geni.us/1-90GearedTTMotor
L298N Motor Driver (x1) - https://geni.us/L298N
Limit Switch with roller arm (x2) - https://geni.us/ContactSwitch
1602 LCD Shield with keypad (x1) - https://geni.us/1602LCDKeypad
HM10 Bluetooth Module (x1) - https://geni.us/HM10Bluetooth
Rubber Bands - https://geni.us/RubberBands
Dominoes - the ones I used (x lots) - https://geni.us/Dominoes
4 Way Wire Connector (x1) - https://geni.us/WagoConnectors
Electrical ‘Hookup’ wire - https://geni.us/22AWGWire
Filament for 3D printing - I used this cool silky silver from Geeetech: https://geni.us/GeeetechSilkSilverPLA
Velcro Cable Tidy (for domino ejector) - https://geni.us/VelcroCableTidy

Nuts, bolts and screws needed ( https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts ):

M3x6 (x2)
M3x10 (x21)
M5x15 (x2)
M5x20 (x2)
M5x25 (x1)

Downloads:

3D printed parts to assemble the machine: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4694940

The code to upload to the Arduino can be found here: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/RC-Domino-Machine-V1

The Rapid Domino Reloader (not yet patented) and fun accessories: https://diy-machines.selz.com/item/rapid-domino-reloader-and-fun-accessories-to-print

Wiring Diagram:

Programming paths with Arduino IDE

I'll explain now how to enter a preprogrammed pattern of domino lying instructions into your machine for it to automatically execute.

Our set of commands actually call functions to carry out each part of the pattern and look a bit like this example:

Every program should start with startProgramme(); and end with endProgramme();.

startProgramme() simply clears the LCD display and announces that it's starting your programme by printing 'Play programme' to the screen. It then pauses for 0.5 a second (so you can see the message on the screen) and then checked that the domino carousel is aligned by rotating it around by one station.

The function endProgramme() just announces the program is completed by printing a message to the screen.

Each line between these two functions tell the machine which direction to move and how many dominoes to lay in that direction.

The first part of the first value which represents the direction of movement and can be either ‘F’ for forward movement or ‘B’ for backwards. You can’t lay a domino when heading backwards. It’s used to help manoeuvre the machine in smaller spaces.

The second part of this value controls the steering. It can be either ‘Straight’, ‘Right’ or ‘Left’. This will make the front servo point the front wheels in that direction.

The second value simply tells the domino machine how many dominoes to lay in that direction when moving forwards and how far to move backwards if travelling backwards. Whilst moving backwards dominoes will not be deposited but the number entered is the equivalent distance travelled as moving the same number forwards.

You can store four of these programs in your machine alongside the bluetooth control we will be adding in the second video.

Your instructions should be stored in the main loop of our Arduino code. Here you will see a case for btnRIGHT, btnLEFT, btnUP and btnDOWN. Which correspond to these keys when you want to play it out. Below is what the switch statement looks like in the example code provided:

You can repla ce the contents of any of these cases with the exception of case btnNONE which should be left with just the break; line in it.

Our machine will keep track of how may dominoes are left in each stack and automatically move to the next one as required. Once the entire carousel has been emptied it will pause the program and prompt for a refill. Once refilled you can press a key to resume the laying. I found it ideal to print a second carousel so I can be loading whilst its laying. :)

There are a f ew more values in the code which you might want to adjust which are located towards the top of the provided code and have self explanatory comments alongside them. They are:

To execute the pre programmed code. Re-upload your sketch via USB with the Arduino IDE. Disconnect the USB and then connect the batteries to power up the project. I t will ask you to temporar ily remove the carousel so it can figure out where the main mechanism is in it’s cycle without damaging anything - remove the carousel if it has already been installed before confirming it's not there by pressing any key (except the 'X' which reboots the Arduino)

Choose IDE mode by pressing '1' or 'left' depending on if you have added our 3D printable buttons yet. Then simply add the carousel preloaded with dominoes and press the key which corresponds to the switch case you stored your list of instruction inside in the code.

To play the example we highlighted earlier press up.

FAQs

Comments

DIY Interactive Performing Pumpkins.

Mon, 19 Oct 2020 19:36:10 GMT

How to 3D print, wire, and program this trio of interactive performing pumpkins. ��

These three singing squashes are driven by a RaspberryPi and low-cost projector. Your guests pick either a song, scare or haunting tale using the 3D printed control panel and its illuminated arcade buttons. This is housed securely alongside a waterproof speaker and all stands at the end of your drive/garden. This keeps the mains electricity and your projector safely indoors.

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

RaspberryPi: https://geni.us/RaspberryPiV4
3.5mm jacks (x2): https://geni.us/3-5mmJacks
Suction Cups (x6): https://geni.us/SuctionCups
Illuminated Momentary Buttons (x3): https://geni.us/IllumMomentButtons
'Hook-up' Wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
Resistors (220 Ohms) (x3) : https://geni.us/Ufa2s
Budget Projector: https://geni.us/BudgetProjector
Sony Budget friendly Waterproof Speaker (optional but fits the housing x1): https://geni.us/Sony-SRS-XB01
PLA Filament: https://geni.us/PLAFilament
M3 nuts and bolts: https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
Wago Connectors (optional, two-way x6 and four-way x1): https://geni.us/WagoConnectors

Downloads

Further down this page are the instructions for configuring the software on the Raspberry Pi.

3D printed parts can be downloaded from here: https://w ww.thingiverse.com/thing:4628211

Sample animations (provided by AtmosFX.com ) and configuration profiles can be downloaded here .

Wiring record sheet

Setting up the Raspberry Pi

I recommend using a Raspberry Pi model 3 or 4 for this to ensure smooth operation of the video files playback.

We will be going through the following steps one-by-one:

Installing and configuring Raspbian / Pi OS on to your SD card
Installing Pi Presents and supporting software
Copy across some pre-prepared profiles and sample video files
Setting the show to start automatically at power on
Adding your own video files

Installing and configuring Raspbian / Pi OS on to your SD card

To begin with you will need to download the Raspberry Pi Imager from the foundations website: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/

Once you have downloaded and installed the software you can insert your Micro SD card into your PC and select 'Choose OS' followed by 'Raspberry Pi OS (32 bit)'.

Once complete pop the SD card into your Raspberry Pi, connect the Pi to a monitor, keyboard, mouse and power supply and wait for the first boot sequence to complete. You know it's ready when you see the following prompt:

At this point you can proceed through the set up pages and:

set your county, language, and timezone settings.
choose a password if you want to sue something other than the default 'raspberry'.
change the screen settings if you're getting a black border around your image.
connect your Pi to wireless (I recommend doing this).
checking the software for updates and automatically applying them.

Checking for and downloading updates may take some time but I recommend it updating your software. Once this is all complete you should restart your Pi.

Installing Pi Presents and supporting software

We can now install Pi Presents software. This is written by Ken Thompson and you can find out more about his project here: https://github.com/KenT2/pipresents-gapless

Using the Raspbian menu head to 'preferences' --> 'raspberry pi configuration' --> 'Performance' and then increase the 'GPU Memory' to 256. You will then be prompted to reboot your Pi to make these changes, which you should do before proceeding.

We can then ensure all he software is up-to-date by issuing the following two commands one after another in the terminal:

sudo apt-get update

sudo apt-get upgrade

The second command above may take a few minutes.

Now we know the software we already have is up-to-date we can install the other required packages by issuing the below commands one at a time:

sudo apt-get install python-pil

sudo apt-get install python-imaging-tk

sudo apt-get install unclutter

sudo apt-get install mplayer

sudo apt-get install uzbl

sudo apt-get install python-pexpect

sudo pip install evdev

To install PiPresents itself issue the following command (the -O towards the end of the command is a capital letter O):

wget https://github.com/KenT2/pipresents-gapless/tarball/master -O - | tar xz

This will create a directory called 'KenT2-pipresents-gapless-xxxx' in your /home/pi directory. We need to rename this to 'pip resents'. You can either do this by using the GUI, right clicking on the folder and renaming it or you can issue the following command to achieve the same though the terminal:

mv KenT2-pipresents-gapless-xxxx pipresents

The 'xxxx' should be substituted with whichever combination of letters and numbers follows your installation.

We can check if what we have done so far is working by issuing the following command:

python /home/pi/pipresents/pipresents.py

If you have managed to successfully install PiPresents then you should be greeted by a Profile Error message. This is because we have yet to install any profiles to run our Halloween show.

Copying across some pre-prepared profiles and sample media

We can now copy across some profile which I have preprepared for you along with some sample media clips provided by AtmosFX .

Download the profiles and media files here: Profile and Media Files

Once you have the files, unzip the folder and a us a USB drive (or other means) to copy the 'pp_home' folder and all its contents to '/home/pi/'.

To test our set up so far you can open a terminal and run:

python /home/pi/pipresents/pipresents.py -p DIYM -f -b

This should result in three familiar pumpkins taking up your screen fullscreen. If you have already built your physical button controller as shown in the project video at the top of the page then you can now connect it to your Pi and take your project for a spin. When connecting the Dupont connector and wires to the pi it should be positioned three pins along from the LH side and with the corner missing a wire towards the top right as shown below.

Setting the show to start automatically at power on

Now we can set the show to start up automatically when the Raspberry Pi boots up instead of having to rely on having a keyboard to hand to start the show (or connecting via VNC to achieve the same).

Before we do this you will need to turn on viewing hidden item in the view options of the Pi file explorer. You could also use the keyboard shortcut of 'Ctrl' + 'H'.

Now navigate to: /etc/xdg/lxsession/LXDE-pi/ and copy the file 'autostart' to your clipboard.

We can now open and edit the 'autostart' file found in /home/pi/.config/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart

You need to append the following line at the bottom of the document:

/usr/bin/python /home/pi/pipresents/pipresents.py -o /home/pi -p DIYM -f -b

Once done you can save the document and reboot your Pi. The show should start automatically shortly after the desktop has loaded.

Adding your own video files

It easy enough to add additional video files to the project. I'll explain how to add new files to the category of either song, scare, or story. When a viewer chooses one of the options with the arcade style buttons than a random video from the category will be played before returning to the 'buffering' video clip. This just shows an animation of pumpkins with moving/flickering candles inside.

I can recommend the animations available at atmosfx.com . These are the ones used in the moan project video and they work very well. Head over to their site to purchase more.

After you have downloaded the video clips you need to copy them onto your Raspberry Pi to the directory: /home/pi/pp_home/media/DIYM.

Once you have done this we can launch a handy web-editor designed by Ken Thompson to tweak the configuration file to include your new clips. This can be launched from a terminal on the Pi with the following command:

python /home/pi/pipresents/pp_web_editor.py

Head to 'Profile' --> 'Open'. Single click on the text of DIYM so it turns bold and then press 'Open.

In the list of shows are three show files which contain a list of tracks for each topic. They are:

ScaresTrio (This contains the tracks for the 'scare' button)
SingingTrio (This contains the tracks for the 'song' button)
StoriesTrio (This contains the tracks for the 'story' button)

Each track is a reference to the video file itself.

I will explain how to add an additional song file step-by-step. The steps are almost identical for the other categories.

Single click on the show file for 'SingingTrio [SingingTrio]'. This will list the tracks for this show in the right most window.

To use the existing track as a template, single click on it and then choose 'Track' --> 'Copy' from the menu bar along the top of the window.

With the new track selected press 'Edit' from the blue buttons on the right hand side.

In the track editor window which appears there are just two fields which you should update.

Title: Change this to a suitable title to recognise your new video file by .

Location: Press the blue button next to this field to navigate and select the video file you wish it to play

Once both fields have been updated you can press 'OK' to close the track editor.

The show itself saves any changes instantly. So you can now close the web editor and re-open your show in PiPresents to check your edits have worked as intended. Don't forget that it is set to choose a file at random so don't be alarmed if your file does not play as soon as you hit the button for the category if there is more than one track in that listing.

I encourage you to refer to Ken Thompsons very in-depth and helpful manual if you would like to further customise your show. You can find it here: https://pipresents.wordpress.com/

Comments

Star Wars BB8 Remote Control Printed Robot

Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:13:41 GMT

Part one (above) explains how to build the body.

Part two (above) covers the assembly of BB8's head and part three (below) covers how to decorate the robot.

This is an easy to build Disney Star Wars BB8 inspired robot. It's controlled by an Arduino UNO over a bluetooth connection from your smartphone.

Part one in our series covers the majority of the electrical assembly and the creation of his main body.

BOM

List of items used in this project and where to find them :

■ Styrofoam Ball: http://geni.us/StyrofoamBall120m

■ Arduino Uno: http://geni.us/ArduinoUno

■ Motor driver: http://geni.us/UnoMotorShield

■ HM10 Bluetooth model: http://geni.us/HM10Bluetooth

■ Motor and wheel: http://geni.us/6VMotorAndWheel

■ Magnets: http://geni.us/6x3mmMagnets

■ Battery: http://geni.us/CR2032

■ Battery Holder (eBay): https://tinyurl.com/y9hwbhf2

■ Hycote White Primer: http://amzn.to/2FA0mGS

■ Metallic Sharpies: http://amzn.to/2GFXJoo

■ Set of Sharpies: http://amzn.to/2EvauRO

Hot Wirecutter:

■ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2718709

Download 3D printable parts:

■ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749613

3D printable stand and template for drawing patterns:

■ https://geni.us/EtsyBB8Stand

Code

The code can be found on Github: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/DIY_RC_BB8

Arduino CNC Drawing Machine

Sun, 19 Jul 2020 14:15:13 GMT

How to make a simple and high quality CNC drawing machine to draw on almost anything. I'll step you through how to build your own including all the files you need.

This project has a relatively low cost and can produce some very detailed drawings. I've used it to create t-shirts, cake decorations, drawings to colour in myself (and some it coloured in for me!). You could also use it to draw out scale drawings, wedding invitations, birthday and Christmas cards and anything else you can think of. :)

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

8 x15 x 45mm Linear Bearing (x2): https://geni.us/LinearBearing45mm
8 x 15 x 25mm Linear Bearing (x1): https://geni.us/LinearBearing25mm
12v Nema 17 stepper motors (x2): https://geni.us/StepperMotor
GT2 Timing belt and pulleys: https://geni.us/TimingBelt5m
Micro servo (x1): https://geni.us/MicroServo
Elegoo Arduino Uno (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoUno
Nuts, bolts and screws (See list below): https://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
Stepper drivers - TMC2208 (x2): https://geni.us/TMC2208
Contact switch (x2): https://geni.us/ContactSwitch
Arduino CNC Shield (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoCNCShield
30mm 5V Fan (x1): https://geni.us/30mm5vFan
8mm Chromed Steel Rod (35cm x2 & 5.5cm x1): https://geni.us/8mmChromedSteelRod
30cm long linear rail with block (x1): https://geni.us/LinearRail300mm
Electrical wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
12v power supply - 2A or greater (x1): https://geni.us/12VPowerSupply2A
Barrel Connector - Female (x1): https://geni.us/FemalePowerBarrel
6mm Idler Wheel - 3mm Bore (1): https://geni.us/6mmIdlerWheel3mmBore
Wooden panel to mount project at least 36x42cm (I used an Ikea ‘LÄMPLIG’ chopping board)

Nuts, bolts and screws needed:

M5 x 25mm (x2)
M3 x 18 (x3)
M3 x 12 (x2)
M3 x10 (x3)
M3 x 6 (X14)
M3 nuts (x9)
M5 nut (x1)
Short wood screws (x8)

Downloads

The code and GRBL configuration can be downloaded from here: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/CNC-DrawingMachine

3D printed parts can be downloaded from here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/94363-easy-3d-printable-cnc-drawing-machine-draw-on-cake

The drawings I created for use with my machine: https://geni.us/EtsyCNCDrawingFiles

Inkscape 0.48.5 for Windows: https://inkscape.org/release/inkscape-0.48/?latest=1

Wiring Diagram

FAQ

Comments

How to Build a Giant Hidden Shelf Edge Clock

Sat, 18 Jul 2020 10:19:54 GMT

We had a large space on part of our living room wall for which we could never find the right 'thing' to hang on it. After trying for several years we decided to make something of our own. This turned out rather well (in our opinion) so I turned it into a project on my Youtube channel and a written a guide which you're reading right now!

It's a giant digital LED clock discreetly hidden in the edges of a geometric shelving system. It also included integrated LED downlighters to show off your favorite items on the shelves.

As the lighting is LED (using WS2821B 'Neopixels') you can choose your own colours - both for the clock face and downlighters. A discreet photoresistor is hidden in the top right corner which dims the LED's when the ambient light levels drop - great for evening ambiance in any room.

DISCORD server: https://discord.gg/EhqqePPcKk

Supplies:

You will need some supplies to build one of your own. Below are links to where you can find the parts on Amazon.

■ An Arduino Nano(x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3

■ A 5m roll of WS2812B LEDS which has 60 LED’s a meter: https://geni.us/5mWS2812B60m

■ A Photosensitive resistor module: https://geni.us/PhotoresistorModule

■ A DS3231: https://geni.us/DS3231-RTC

■ Some Hookup wire - ideally three different colours: https://geni.us/22AWGWire

■ A couple of 470 Ohm resistors: https://geni.us/Ufa2s

■ A couple of electric terminal block strips - each 5 blocks long: https://geni.us/TerminalBlocks

■ No 8 wood screws: https://geni.us/No8Screw

■ A 5v power supply with screw terminals: https://geni.us/PowerSupplyTerm

■ Some thicker twin core cable

■ Some filament for the 3D printed parts: https://geni.us/PLAFilament

■ Wood infused PLA filament: https://geni.us/WoodPLA

■ Wooden backboard at least 112 x 39cm the one I used was 138 x 60cm (this will give the finished project a 10cm border around the outside).

Code and other downloads

Code for the project can be found on its Github page: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/DigitalClockSmartShelving

3D printed parts and wiring diagrams can be downloaded from here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/94364

Drawing for CNC drilling of the backboard (if you have access to a CNC machine or know someone else who does):

https://www.etsy.com/uk/DIYMachines/listing/1081760909

DISCORD server: https://discord.gg/EhqqePPcKk

Wiring Diagrams

Click on an image to see a larger version.

FAQ's

Comments

Hot Wire Foam Cutter - Battery Powered

Fri, 17 Jul 2020 17:18:41 GMT

How to build a 3D printed, battery-powered Hot Wire Foam / Polystyrene cutter.

You'll need the following:

Some wire
A set of the 3D printable parts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2718709
1 momentary switch http://amzn.to/2ADQxFM
3 AA Batteries http://amzn.to/2ohIBrS
3 Bolts http://amzn.to/2on1RED
4 Nuts http://amzn.to/2on1RED
Some 32 AWG Nichrome http://amzn.to/2ACssiE

and that's it!

The 3D printed parts can be downloaded from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2718709

The battery holder itself was designed by 'enif': https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:456900

Drone Landing Pad & Timer

Fri, 17 Jul 2020 17:14:53 GMT

This drone landing pad features an integrated ultrasonic sensor that detects a drones presence. When a drone departs the Arduino starts a timer. When you return your lap time is displayed to you.

You can either try to improve your personal best or challenge a friend to do better than you (if you trust them with your drone that is).

It can be printed and assembled over a weekend.

==========

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

Arduino Uno: http://amzn.to/2prkQvJ

7 Segment Display: http://amzn.to/2HRAzuR

Battery holder: http://amzn.to/2pwiWJJ

Neodymium Magnets 3 x 6mm: https://amzn.to/2GoyaKV

Coloured wires: http://amzn.to/2IDIU6D

Ultrasonic sensor: http://amzn.to/2pt4xOm

Rechargeable batteries: http://amzn.to/2ptrSQ1

Standard AAs: http://amzn.to/2GNj8wg

Red and Green LEDs: http://amzn.to/2puX7Kw

Resistors: http://amzn.to/2HTmLA2

==========

Download 3D printable parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832044

Code is available here: https://www.electromaker.io/project/view/drone-landing-pad-with-arduino-timer

Circuit diagrams: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832044

DIY Word Clock - 3D Printed

Fri, 17 Jul 2020 17:10:40 GMT

This 3D printable Word Clock displays the time in full sentences by lighting up the hidden words in amongst the jumble of letters. It also features a replaceable and customisable clock face so you can add your own design flair to your project.

It can be printed and assembled over a weekend.

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

Arduino Uno: http://geni.us/ArduinoUno
Adafruit Neomatrix: http://geni.us/AdafruitNeomatrix
Coloured wires: http://amzn.to/2IDIU6D
DS3231 Real Time Clock: https://geni.us/DS3231-RTC
Resistors: http://amzn.to/2HTmLA2
PLA Filament: https://geni.us/PLAFilament

==========

Download 3D printable parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3028623

Code is available here: https://www.electromaker.io/project/view/word-clock-customisable-and-easy-to-build

Circuit diagrams: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3028623

TCRT5000 Infrared Reflective Sensor - How it works

Fri, 17 Jul 2020 17:05:53 GMT

Here is a brief overview of the TCRT5000 Reflective infrared sensor. I'll cover how it works and show you an example circuit and code for you to use yourself

==========================

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

TCRT5000 break out board: http://geni.us/TCRT5000

Arduino Uno: http://geni.us/ArduinoUno

Jumper Wires: http://geni.us/JumperWires

Breadboard: http://geni.us/MiniBreadboard

==========

The code can be downloaded from here: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/TCRT5000

Automatic Smart Plant Pot

Fri, 17 Jul 2020 17:02:30 GMT

Print, assemble and program your own intelligent Smart Plant Pot. With a hidden water reservoir, pump and sensors why not make your plant care easy. With an Arduino Nano at its core this project uses a water level sensor to let you know when to refill the concealed tank and a solid moisture sensor to figure out when to water your plant based on its needs.

==========

CORRECTION: 4:05 into the video I incorrectly say to use 20cm wires to connect the water level sensor. The correct length is 35cm.

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

Arduino Nano: https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
Mini submersible pump: https://geni.us/MiniPump
5mm tubing: https://geni.us/5mmTubing
Transistor: https://geni.us/2npn2222
Resistors (1k and 4.7k): https://geni.us/Ufa2s
Wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
3mm LED: https://geni.us/LEDs
Water level sensor: https://geni.us/WaterLevelSensor
Nuts and Bolts: http://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
Soil moisture sensor: https://geni.us/MoistureSensor
Half Perma-proto board: https://geni.us/HalfPermaProto
PLA Filament: https://geni.us/PLAFilament

Battery powered glue gun: http://geni.us/BoschBatteryGlueGun

Battery powered soldering iron: http://bit.ly/SealeySDL6

==========

The code can be downloaded from here: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/SmartPlantV1

3D printed parts and wiring diagram can be downloaded from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537287

Make your own Simon Says Memory Game

Thu, 16 Jul 2020 18:07:45 GMT

Print, assemble and program your own Simon Says game. How much of the randomly generated colour pattern can you memorise and repeat back?

Not sure, then why not make one and find out. (My current best is level 14).

With an Arduino Nano at its core, this project also incorporates an OLED screen, passive buzzer, and some big bright buttons.

List of items used in this project and where to find them :

Elegoo Arduino Nano (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
OLED Screen (1): https://geni.us/OLEDscreen
Battery Holders (x2): https://geni.us/2aaBatteryHolder
Resistors (220 Ohms) (x4) : https://geni.us/Ufa2s
Wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
AA Batteries (x4): https://geni.us/AABatteries
Illuminated Momentary Buttons (x4): https://geni.us/IllumMomentButtons
Nuts and Bolts - M3 x 10 (x4): http://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
5v buzzer (x1) : https://geni.us/5vBuzzer
PLA Filament: https://geni.us/PLAFilament
Illuminated Power Switch (x1): https://geni.us/IllumPowerSwitch
Battery powered glue gun: http://geni.us/BoschBatteryGlueGun
Battery powered soldering iron: http://bit.ly/SealeySDL6

Code:

The code can be downloaded from here: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/SimonSays

3D CAD Files

3D printable STL files can be downloaded from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3723181

Wiring Diagram

Make your own Automatic Garden Waterer

Thu, 16 Jul 2020 17:57:35 GMT

Save time and water by automating the watering of your greenhouse, flower beds, hanging baskets or lawn with this simple to follow 3D printable Arduino project.

B OM

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

Elegoo Arduino Nano (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
Servo (x1): https://geni.us/Servo
Real-time clock (x1): https://geni.us/DS3231-RTC
Hoselock compatible connector (x2): https://geni.us/hose-connectors
Wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
Hoselock compatible inline valve (x1): https://geni.us/hozelock-valve
Nuts and Bolts - M3 x 10 (x3): http://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
ABS Filament: https://geni.us/ABS-Filament
Long USB cable (x1) https://geni.us/LomgUSBMiniB
USB wall plug (x1) https://geni.us/USBWallPlug
Hozelock Irrigation kit (x1): https://geni.us/Hozelock-Irrigation

If you would prefer to use PLA filament I have good success with this one:

PLA Filament: https://geni.us/PLAFilament

Code

Code for project can be found on GitHub: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/arduino-garden-waterer

Wiring Diagram

Make the Ultimate Bluetooth Dry Ice Fog Machine

Thu, 16 Jul 2020 17:54:30 GMT

Build your own Arduino driven, Bluetooth remote-controlled dry ice effect machine with integrated LED lighting. Perfect for parties, effects, and Halloween.

Chillistick.com kindly supplied the dry ice for this project. Use the voucher code 'DIY10' to get 10% off all their Halloween products for a limited time.

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

Elegoo Arduino Nano (x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
L298N Motor Driver (x1): https://geni.us/L298N
8 AA Battery Holder (x1): https://geni.us/8aaBatteryHolder
AA Batteries (x8): https://geni.us/AABatteries
Mini breadboard (x1): https://geni.us/MiniBreadboard
12v Geared DC Motor (x1): https://geni.us/12VGearedDCMotor
HM10 Bluetooth Module (x1): https://geni.us/HM10Bluetooth
Contact Switches (x2): https://geni.us/ContactSwitch
Stationery Holder (x1): https://geni.us/StationeryHolder
Nuts and Bolts - : http://geni.us/NutsAndBolts
Wire: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
PLA Filament: https://geni.us/PLAFilament
Plastic Container (x1): https://geni.us/PlasticContainer

These are some of my favourite tools I use and can recommend:

Battery-powered glue gun: http://geni.us/BoschBatteryGlueGun
Bosch Bit Driver: https://geni.us/Bosch-Screwdriver

The code can be downloaded from here: https://github.com/DIY-Machines/DryIceMachine

3D printed parts can be downloaded from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3902329

Arduino powered automated party Photo Booth

Thu, 16 Jul 2020 17:45:58 GMT

I'll show you how to build your own Automated Photo Booth for less than hiring one (if you can lay your hands on a DSLR). You can customise the housing to suit your event/wedding and as it's controlled by an Arduino Nano you don't need anyone to 'man it' throughout the night.

The guests just press the giant arcade button and the photo booth guides them through their own photoshoot sequence. :)

List of items used in this project and where to find them:

An Arduino Nano(x1): https://geni.us/ArduinoNanoV3
2.2k and 1k resistor (x1 of each): https://geni.us/Ufa2s
Giant illuminated arcade button: https://geni.us/GiantArcadeButton
MAX7219 Display Matrix: https://geni.us/MAX7219DotMatrix
A shutter release cable for your SLR camera - I've built and tested this photo booth with a Canon camera.

Canon SLR - https://geni.us/CanonSLR

Canon EOS/Rebel SLR https://geni.us/CanonEOSSLR

Nikon SLR: https://geni.us/NikonSLR

Sony SLR: https://geni.us/SonySLR

Breadboard or some perforated board - I’ll show you how to connect everything together using either one.

Breadboard: https://geni.us/BreadboardMedium
Perfboard: https://geni.us/PCBPerfBoard

A screen or monitor (I’m using this 23” ASUS VC239H): https://geni.us/ASUSMonitor23
Some small lengths of hook up wire for the internal electronics: https://geni.us/22AWGWire
Four longer lengths of wire for connecting to the arcade button (I used two lengths of speaker wire): https://geni.us/SpeakerWire
Some filament for the 3D printed parts: https://geni.us/PLAFilament
And a digital SLR camera: https://geni.us/SLRCameras

For the housing

Some wooden panels Some screws Paint and other materials for decoration.

These are some of my favorite tools I use and can recommend:

■ Battery-powered glue gun: http://geni.us/BoschBatteryGlueGun

■ Bosch Bit Driver: https://geni.us/Bosch-Screwdriver

==========

The code can be downloaded from here: h ttps://github.com/DIY-Machines/PhotoBooth

3D printed parts and wiring diagrams can be downloaded from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4017425

Arcade button mount can be bought here: https://diy-machines.selz.com/item/5de5c972701f5d0df4fbbba0

Disclaimer:

This video is shared for demonstration purposes only.

RGB 3D Printed and low cost Lightsaber

Thu, 16 Jul 2020 17:35:42 GMT

This Star Wars inspired lightsaber project was designed by me with the support of the great folks at www.Electromaker.io who were kind enough to provide the parts.

You can order a kit of the required electricals, screws, and lens from them on the project's page: https://www.electromaker.io/project/view/3d-printable-extendable-and-affordable-light-sabre

You'll also find a full set of written instructions, circuit diagram and the STL files to download and print for yourself on the projects page: https://www.electromaker.io/project/view/3d-printable-extendable-and-affordable-light-sabre

Dupont Connectors - Make your own

Thu, 16 Jul 2020 17:29:04 GMT

Here is a brief explanation of how to crimp Dupont connectors. I'll explain how to crimp both male and female Dupont connectors (also known as Mini-PV) , what to look for in a good crimp and show you the tools.

You can buy a low-cost crimping kit from Amazon here: https://geni.us/DupontCrimper

Disclaimer:

This video and project is shared for demonstration purposes only.

3D Printed Low Cost Robotic Bartender

Tue, 07 Jul 2020 19:42:30 GMT

Build yourself a low-cost easy to assemble Bluetooth controllable robotic bartender using an Arduino Uno. This easy Arduino based project can be 3D printed and is a cool Arduino project for beginners.

Links to 3D printable models, code and BOM are below the videos.

First drink CSV:

07,30,01,68,90,01,72,10,00,70,00,00,74,01,00,71,01,00,

List of items used in this project and where to find them :

Arduino Uno: http://geni.us/ArduinoUno
Motor driver: http://geni.us/UnoMotorShield
Contact Switch: http://geni.us/ContactSwitch
Linear Bearings: http://geni.us/LinearBearings
RGB LED: https://geni.us/RGBLEDCC
8mm Steel Rod: https://geni.us/8mmMetalRod
Stepper Motor: http://geni.us/StepperMotor
Timing Belt and Pulley (2m version): http://geni.us/TimingBelt
Timing Belt and Pulley (5m version): http://geni.us/TimingBelt5m

Download 3D printable parts:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2478890

Code for the project:

https://github.com/DIY-Machines/BarRobot

3D Printable Projects

Sensorless Homing with RP2040 & TMC2209

Comments:

Build Working Stranger Things Walkie-Talkies

I Recreated the Stranger Things Walkie-Talkies (THEY ACTUALLY WORK)

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

Downloads:

How to Build your Stranger Things Style Walkie-Talkie

Step 1: Disassembling the radio

Step 2: 3D Printing the Radio Bodies Middle

Step 3: 3D Printing the Radio Bodies Front

Step 4: Adding the LED's

Step 5: Preparing the Speaker

Step 6: Attaching The Two Prints

Step 7: Connecting The Electronics - LEDs

Step 8: Connecting The Electronics - Speaker

Step 9: Securing the PCB

Step 10: Extending Channel & Volume Controls

Step 11: Assembling The Battery Pack and Rear 3D Print

Step 12: Electrically Connecting The Battery

Step 13: Installing Decorative Antenna

Step 14: Attaching the Rear and Top Decor

Step 15: Assembling the Left Hand Side and Transmit Button

Project Complete!

Community:

Build a COLOUR E-INK DASHBOARD

How to make your own colour InkyPi e-Paper Dashboard

List of items used in this project and where to find them / BOM:

Downloads:

How to Build your InkyPi Display

Step 1: Choosing the Front

Step 2: Adding The Back

Step 3: Attach the Ribbon Connector

Step 4: Install Raspberry Pi OS

Step 5: Attach Display 'HAT' to Raspberry Pi

Step 6: Finishing the Wiring

Step 7: Inserting Into Ikea Frame

Step 8: Connecting to our Project

Step 9: Installing InkyPi

Step 10: Exploring the Plugins

Step 11: Ways to Display Your New E-ink Dashboard

Community:

HALOT-X1 Resin 3D Printer Review

PioCreat HALOT-X1 10.1” 16K Resin Printer Review

Where to buy:

Pros:

Cons:

Video Review of Ha lot-X1

What is th e PioCreat Halot X1?

Technical Overview ﻿

Shipping and Packing

What’s provided in the box?

Assembly

Instruction manual

Features in more detail

Levelling the print bed

WiFi set-up

First Prints

Loading Resin with the AFU

Build Plate: The Quick Release Twist System

Washing and Curing - UW-03

The Completed Prints

Dimensional Accuracy

Software

Final thoughts

Where to buy:

Technical Details:

How to use the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Sensor

Comments:

Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra Resin 3D Printer Review

Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra - 7" 9k AI Resin Printer

Pros:

Cons:

Where to buy:

What is it?

Technical Overview ﻿

Shipping and Packing

What’s provided in the box?

Assembly

Instruction manual

PioCreat HALOT-X1
10.1” 16K Resin Printer Review

Technical Overview

Technical Overview